Dellboy218
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Posts posted by Dellboy218
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1 hour ago, KannikaP said:
How would I do that please. How can I pass say 20 amps constantly for a time thru my breaker?
And what would I then know?
Do you still have the paperwork with your breaker? Buy one in the box and it often comes with a graph. You would have to know what your liading is to see if it's the correct breaker. If it hasn't tripped then it's obviously big enough. Pm me with make and model No. And I will see if I can find anything.
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1 hour ago, GammaGlobulin said:
Sorry.
A much better and more appropriate term would have been....
REDUNDANT
REDUNDANT is what the "Dry Mode" button is.
Waste of space on the remote control.
Dehumidifiers work well when dehumidification is needed because they draw in ambient room air, pass the humid air over cold coils to condense the water vapor, then past the resulting dry air toward the back of the machine where it passes over hot coils to reheat the air, and then the air exits out the back of the dehumidifier at slightly higher temperature than when it entered the machine.
A dehumidifier is very useful in Chiang Mai during the humid months, such as during the raining season, and also the cool season, to avoid problems such as black mold in the house, or green mold growing on leather products such as belts, shoes, etc.
UNFORTUNATELY; The AC Dry Mode does not work as well because the room air is cooled as it passes over the evaporator coils, thus providing dehumidification, but it is never re-heated.
When the room air reaches lower temps, then the dehumidification process does not work very well, and the room air becomes damp and uncomfortable.
This is why, in the past, I have often used a dehumidifier and the AC simultaneously for best results.
Hope this information will be helpful to you when you next become bothered by excessive humidity in the Cool Season or the Wet Season, a condition which often leads to Black Mold, as you can learn by searching this Forum.
I think redundant refers to your posts.
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23 minutes ago, KannikaP said:
For how long? A few seconds?
My 12000 BTU Mitsu Normal usually takes just over a kilowatt when running. Does that mean SEVEN kilowatts to start up without tripping a 20 amp breaker.
A circuit breaker operates on current and time. The attached graph might help explain. You would have to investigate your own particular breaker to confirm.
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17 minutes ago, KannikaP said:
For how long? A few seconds?
My 12000 BTU Mitsu Normal usually takes just over a kilowatt when running. Does that mean SEVEN kilowatts to start up without tripping a 20 amp breaker.
If it is an inverter model then no. If a direct on line non inverter model then it will take considerably more. Standard Indiction motor theory. If you do not believe me then this might help. Just a quick copy paste. I did say up to 7 they day 5 or 6. It depends on the startup load and how quickly it gets up to speed
The starting current of the induction motor is about 5 or 6 times the motor full load current. An induction motor of rating 11 KW,22 Amps,440 volts takes a high starting current of about 132 Amps. The current reduces as the motor accelerates towards its base speed or synchronous speed.Feb 25, 2564 BE -
5 minutes ago, GammaGlobulin said:
a. You are now saying that graphs of valid data are not informative to this discussion?
b. You are implying that there are not many people in Thailand and elsewhere in Asia who run dehumidifiers in the winter months?
Truly?
FALSE
I believe I was talking about me. Did I mention any one else?
What you did say was that the airdry function found on just about every aircon is meaningless.
Now perhaps you can bring graphs and reviews to to prove your hypothesis.
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3 minutes ago, GammaGlobulin said:
FALSE:
FALSE
The dry mode does not gorce the aircon to run slowly. That will be up to the programme in the PLC or whatever controller it used.
I Also said it was up to the controlling device that was used. It is that that sets the working conditions.
You can bring all the graphs you want but ask how many people run an aircon or dehumidifier in the winter months. When it's cool it is not noticeable. In the hot summer months it certainly is.
Perhaps you should contact all the aircon makers and tell them their air dry mode is meaningless! I have always found it to be very effective. Perhaps you should try it.
I have lived in this same house for 35 years and have never had mold on anything. I also have a house the other side of Ubon, I don't remember mold there either. Perhaps if one lived in the forest your copy and paste might be true.
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2 minutes ago, GammaGlobulin said:
I mentioned Taiwan ONLY as an example of a place in Asia where, during the winter months, the temperatures get low enough and to the point where the Dry Mode is of little value other than to reduce the room temperature lower than what most people would think is tolerable.
But for our purposes, we can choose CM in the winter months:
In Chiang Mai in the winter months, The COLD Season, during some years, the temperature can get quite cold for up to two months. And, when the temperature is this cool, most people in Thailand would not be able to accept having the compressors of their ACs running, and further cooling down the room/house. (In order to achieve dehumidification, the AC compressor MUST be running. And, running the compressor will cool the already cold room. Therefore, not acceptable for most users in the winter months, unless the Cool Season is especially warm.)
Now, concerning the inverter-ACs and non-inverter ACs:
a. The Dry Mode on inverter ACs will cause the compressor to run slowly, providing dehumidification.
b. The Dry Mode on the non-inverter ACs, will cause the compressor to cycle ON and OFF. The sound of the compressor going from OFF mode to full ON mode can be very disconcerting. And, this is just one more reason not to choose this type of AC.
There is always the option to use a dehumidifier with an AC that is operating.
If you use a dehumidifier, the dehumidifier will produce dehumidification plus heat. And, in winter months during the Cool Season, this added heat output can help to warm the room while the Dry Mode of the AC is operating.
If you live in the mountains of Thailand, then during the Cool Season the temps will dip to what is typical in northern Taiwan. And, if you are there, then I would suggest that you use both a dehumidifier and also an inverter-AC running simultaneously, if you wish to lower the humidity to below 40 or 50 percent.
Obviously, all of the above applies ONLY if you have made the effort to seal the cracks around doors and windows of your room/house using a caulking gun, or methods.
Forgive me but I am straining to understand. Chiang Mai in the winter months has very low humidity, why on earth would you be running the aircon air dry? In the upcoming wet season it can be very hot and humid and I will be running mine as it does work without making it to cool.
The dry mode does not gorce the aircon to run slowly. That will be up to the programme in the PLC or whatever controller it used.
Of course the DOL compressor will cycle on and off just as in its cooling mode. I have old DOL aircons upstairs and I have to strain to hear the compressors cycling. but then I had concrete plinths built into the wall. So I don't get any noise.
Again why would you use a dehumidifier in the cool season. I've been here 35 years and I have never had the need for dehumidifiers in the cool season.
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3 minutes ago, GammaGlobulin said:
Dry Mode is meaningless.
Dry Mode just means that you have set the machine so that the compressor will run more slowly, and will therefore will not cool the room as much.
You can achieve the same effect by keeping the AC in cool mode, and just selecting a higher temp on the thermostat setting.
Also, this DRY MODE setting is not really usable in colder climates such as in Taiwan during the cold months.
IF the Dry Mode continues to operate, you can reduce your room temp to down around 14 degrees C.
Why is this?
Dry mode will force the compressor to continue to operate, even though the compressor will often cycle off and on, in order to provide continued dehumidification.
This is OK in warmer climates.
But, it is not OK in cooler climates because, of course, when the compressor operates then room cooling will be the result.
For this reason, in places like Taiwan, it is better to use a dehumidifier during winter months, when there is high humidity in the air, and the ambient temps are fairly low.
But we are not in Taiwan, at least I am not. Where does Taiwan come into this discussion. It is not dry mode that is meaningless. You've got compressors slowing down and then switching on and off. Are we talking inverter or DOL?
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1 hour ago, Bday Prang said:
I am not spreading "FUD" you pompous buffoon, and I won't be providing any evidence, believe what you want, its no skin off my nose.
on second thoughts, sometimes people like you need to be told so chew on this..https://genhvac.com/bigger-isnt-better-comes-air-conditioners/#:~:text=Higher Utility Bills,it to shut off again.
or this https://www.oasiscooling.com/blog/why-an-oversized-air-conditioner-is-a-serious-problem/
but i do agree with your final sentence, wrong is indeed wrong
I have had a look at the site you provided. I would rather go with getting a unit a little larger than too small. I don't like machinery running flat out for extended periods but thats just me. It does mention humidity and indeed many people say if it's too big it won't clear the humidity. To that I say "cobblers". Every aircon has an air dry function which also takes into account the humidity level which negates a lot of the problems mentioned. It also says wear and tear switching on and off too much. Perhaps it wouldn't be a problem if used differently, not a problem with inverter models of course. This might help explain:
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Just now, VocalNeal said:
Neither is the old model when the compressor is off.🤔
That is very true!
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38 minutes ago, matchar said:
I'm by no means an expert but I think while this is true, the startup spike is very brief so it's not as bad as it sounds and it won't contribute a significant amount of the overall energy usage.
The interesting question is when is it worth upgrading a perfectly working older fixed speed air conditioner to a newer inverter model?
I think in most cases it's worth keeping the old one until it dies.
Perhaps not as brief as you think and it adds up. As I said when they are both running at full chat they take roughly the same energy. Whilst the old model is switching on and off the inverter model is modulating up and down not taking full energy when it doesn't have to. Generally I do not think it's worth changing until it goes faulty. I am no expert either but I did look after Industrial aircons along with everything else electrical on everything from the largest ships afloat down to survey ships for 45 years.
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Furthermore, the PEA informs about the energy-saving advantages of modern inverter air conditioners since they cool rooms quickly and efficiently
An inverter aircon does not cool any quicker than a non inverter type. Equivalent size compressor units will or should cool the same although they may use different refrigerant gasses which may make a difference. Both types will use roughly the same electrical energy when running flat out, with similar sized compressor. Where an inverter can save electricity is on compessor start up. An induction motor as in the compressor can take around 7 times its running energy to start. So if your non inverter unit is set so that it is switching on and off constantly then it will be losing out to an inverter model. The inverter models don't have this problem. Inverters will also modulate up and down to maintain a steadier temperature rather than on/off.
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned this and I make no comment about this accident or the people involved except that I wish them a speedy recovery. The elephant in this particular room. Did the trike have a number plate? Was it taxed and insured? Did he have a license and was he wearing a helmet? As far as I can tell, anybody correct me if I am wrong, but basically if it's got pedals it's an assisted bicycle and no license etc required. If it's not got pedals then it's classified as a motorbike. This is a serious question that should be addressed by the Police as there are more and more on the road and there will he more unfortunate accidents and insurance companies will not be wanting to pay up if they don't have to. Clarification is urgently required
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CH7 TV
in Chiang Mai
Playing ok on IPTV app.
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7 hours ago, bluejets said:
Best approach would be to look around and see what other systems are working successfully, both in relation to power generation and distribution and the political kickbacks on poor decisions.
Saves all the suck it and see problems as most seem to come up with.
Certainly do not follow the current Aus gov examples with dead loss wind turbines and tearing up prime land for HV distribution.
Mate of mine works in the solar farm installs and suggestions from those who one would consider as "in the know" say the farms are a complete waste of time....... best place for solar panels with so many advantages, is , up there on the roof of individuals.
Aus currently has 6kw complete systems being installed on private roof tops ( with gov subsidy from way back in the beginning) of less than AU$3,500.00.
Qld a feed back tariff rate at 13c or more per kwh but poor old Victoria, less than 3c (probably because Vic is broke...no money)
That is the best suggestion. Heavily susidise panels/batteries/inverters to fit on private houses/buildings. After all if it goes wrong you can fall back on the grid. The grid has no fall back.
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I would agree with the others regarding Roojai. Just go to
I have car and bike insured through them. I used them last year after a foopah in the car. By myself, my fault entirely. The claim was improved within minutes of me arriving at the garage and I had a chap with very good English phoning me asking if I was ok and whether there was anything else they could do for me. That in itself was a pleasant change.
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On 1/10/2024 at 3:08 PM, Mike Lister said:
I didn't check for cataract surgery and I don't believe I would, given the Sriphat option, perhaps others know.
About 70k when I had one eye done. The other in Sriphat 47k. St.Peters was painless 1½ hours under local anesthetic. Sriphat was 3 hours of agony under a male doctor to the point I had broken the tape used to restrict my arms and hands. A friend had the lady doctor with no such problems. No idea why the difference. Both eyes have been good since.
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There is also VN Auto on the Hangdong Road nearly opposite Lotus. They do a lot of work for insurance companies.
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I had the eye op in Sriphat nearly a year ago because of a cataract. Nigh on perfect vision now with single focal lens, 47k Baht if I remember correctly.
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17 hours ago, Hakuna Matata said:
That is a pure BS, waste of money.
They are not effective against PM2.5 particles.
They are not capable of filtering them.
You mean 3M are outright lying when they say they do filter pm2.5?
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3m filtrete go up to 270cm in length (Lazada). These are the ones I use and have done for years. No idea which is best but the prices can double this time of year.
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I use a tourist policeman. A cold beer works wonders!
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2 hours ago, Dellboy218 said:
I sent this to a friend in Canada who is married to a Hong Kong lady. This was his response...
Does not boost the morale of Chinese on holiday but rather serves as a mechanism of returning them to detention on the Mainland.
We have had the issue of Chinese “Police Stations” in Canada which have been used to bring “wayward” citizens home.
My neighbour was Mainland Chinese and suddenly disappeared last Autumn with no notice and is now back in China. I spent last Winter shovelling his snow.
Perhaps one should also mention North Korea as we are on the main escape route. I presume if posted the Chinese Police would take an interest!
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PEA advises on cost-effective air conditioners amid Thai heat
in Thailand News
Posted
Its not 440V it's is 380V. 220 x Sq root of 3. As an induction motor is 3 phase and most will only be supplying a single phase then obviously you have to generate a 3rd pase. This is done with a capacitor, the uF value is set to give the 120 degree variation between phases to give the best torque. The capacitor is normally the first thing to breakdown. You hear any motor making humming noises but going nowhere then the chances are it's the capacitor. Applies to a lot of washing machines pumps etc. It's the capacitor wots failed!