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About Dazinoz

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  • Birthday November 14

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    Chiang Mai

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  1. Home slit type ACs are supplied with sufficient refrigerant to use around 3 to 5 metres of piping. The instructions nearly always gives a table (see attached for a Daiken unit) on how much extra refrigerant of the same class, eg R22 or R410A, etc per extra metre of pipe run. I haven't seen where to remove refrigerant for short runs so I think the design caters for that. The minimum length is usually to prevent noise/vibration travelling to from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit. Having said that too much refrigerant will cause pressure problems. I had that issue with a reverse cycle AC back home in Oz. I added a bit too much refrigerant and it kept tripping out on pressure in the heating mode. NOTE: piping distance is measured as a pair of pipes (supply and return) not total pipe length, ie a 3 meter run is classed as 3 meters not 6 meters as there is 6 meters pipe.
  2. The compressor in the outdoor unit is the power hungry device not the fans. The compressor compresses the refrigerant and pumps it to the indoor unit where it reaches the evaporator (radiator) where the refrigerant "flashes" off in the and, due to the laws of thermodynamics, cools the air passing through the evaporator which is provided by the fan. The heated refrigerant is returned to the outdoor unit where it passes through the condenser (another radiator) and another fan blows air over the condenser and removes the heat removed from the room and the cycle is repeated. Old style ACs the compressor cuts in and out as you mention. The inverter type has the electronics to change the speed of the compressor and thus the refrigeration cycle keeping a more constant temperature control. If the AC unit is undersized and the compressor runs at full speed and thus does not save power. A 2 horsepower compressor uses the same power in an inverter or non inverter if running at full speed. An inverter does not magically produce power. The earlier inverter electronic boards were very susceptible to vermin such as mice and ghekos. They would run on the boards and short them out. That has been pretty well overcome now. Another downside to an inverter type is heat. Electronicsare susceptible to heat and there is enough "smarts" built into the ACs to prevent damage to the components from excess heat. This is done by de-rating the output of the AC which defeats its purpose on a very hot day. It is especially important with inverters to shade the outdoor unit if possible especially if the unit does not have much excess capacity as required by the area cooled.
  3. I have seen many articles and all seem to be around the 17%. Personally I thought would be higher than that.
  4. Well that one made me laugh. Both non inverter and inverter basically have the same components, case, compressor, fan, condenser, copper tubing, wiring but the inverter model has LOTS more electronics. Could never see a non inverter being more expensive to repair. I had a non inverter in my bedroom 20 years in Oz. Neighbour behind me had an inverter type that failed and they told him cheaper to buy new one and replace than to repair old one.
  5. I installed an in floor safe my self back in oz. I jack hammered a hole in the concrete in the floor inside a built in cupboard. I dug down and made the hole a considerable bit bigger than the safe. I built a reo frame around it and tied it into the reo of the house slab. Then poured concrete all around. No one was going to get that out in a hurry without a lot noise. The door which was a "plug" type was probably the weakest point and, believe me, it was high quality and wasn't weak. Its tope was flush with the floor with a bit carpet covering it. What did I store in it? Gold and silver coins and important papers.
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