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Crossy

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About Crossy

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  • Birthday 04/04/1959

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    Pathum Thani, LoS

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    http://www.crossy.co.uk
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  1. Ah yes, "Shopportunities" or "Scientific and Technical" in the back of the Sunday papers - This amazing hi-fi has a massive 100 Watts output (Total instantaneous peak music power - both channels driven), in reality about 4W RMS per channel. There's a significant amount of "specmanship" going on, like the "60W" really being about 6W. IMHO it's more than somewhat dishonest, the ordinary man in the street is going to think he can replace his 60W mains LED floodlight (which really will be 60W and b****y bright) with one of these and be severely disappointed. That's not
  2. Thai water not same farang water (same as the electricity)
  3. Why not add a second shower curtain at the back (so it hangs in front of the bottles) use one of the friction-fit poles to support it. Water all ends up in the bath, little cost, take it with you when you move.
  4. Years ago I bought some solar garden lights. They were not cheap, they were pretty useless. The panels were tiny, the batteries cheap and the light level would be rivaled by a candle. They worked well enough for marking the edge of the pond but didn't really provide "lighting". The glimmer lasted about 8 hours when new. The batteries finally failed after about 18 months. Since then I've shied off solar lights, until now. On the recommendation of another, well respected, member I bought a couple of these:- For 660 B
  5. Let's move this to DIY. Do you want silver solder or brazing rod, they are not the same thing?
  6. Here we go with a VERY quick and dirty load calculation. Assume A/C load 3 x 12000 BTU at once (or possibly 2 x 18000 BTU in the lounge) = 18A Assume 2 x 4500W water heaters at once = 40A (short time load - I'm assuming on-demand heaters). So with all the little loads we're looking at peak loading of 60A ish. 30/100 meter would be very fine if available, in reality a 15/45 (with a 50A incoming breaker) would also be fine. No need for 3-phase at this time even if you can only get a 15/45 (swap the incomer for 63A once inspection passed).
  7. If you are happy with the current unit and you are in the same area great. Let's not get into the "my heater is bigger than yours" discussion again. No kids, but we have grandkids to stay, when they do the power bill doubles with loooong showers and aircon usage.
  8. It's what we do Anyway, I'll get back on this later, I just got a large stack of cable test results to look at (fibre, UTP and power) looking at which actually pays the bills
  9. I can do it for you no problem, I can make some assumptions but we can get a ball-park idea. Do you envisage on-demand water heaters? How many? How big (do you like volcanic showers at Niagra flow rates)? How about cooking? Electric oven and/or hob (cooktop)? Water supply - well pump? I'll assume low-energy lighting. A house floor plan would be handy to size the A/Cs. Any plans for solar? Backup generator? It's much easier to design these in at this stage even if you don't implement immediately.
  10. Yeah ^^^, our 2.2kW irrigation pump (not submersible) will empty the 2400L buffer tank in about 5 minutes given the chance (2 x 2" pipes, all the sprinklers on). We only run two of the big squirters at once to get adequate squirt range and to allow the 2HP lift pump from the canal to keep up.
  11. I assumed he meant 30/100 which are not always available. Hence my suggestion to do a load estimate.
  12. Our poles are 22m apart, mainly because the distance from road to house is 44m (we have 3 poles due to the route taken down the edge of the property). Looking at the sag between poles I would say 30-35m would be the limit for self-supporting wires. For 75m I'd be looking at 4 poles:- <street> 25m <pole> 25m <pole> 25m <house> of course direction changes need a pole too, so sketch out how you intend routing your supply then put poles in sensible places. Probably best to consult your pole contractor, ours were put in by PEA chaps moonlig
  13. They won't That resistor is effectively a fuse, the switching FET is certainly also toast (shorted) which is why the resistor opened (when you tested the lights). You may get away with replacing both, if you can find values. For the cost of a new T5 electronic ballast I'd just ditch the electronics and replace with a new ballast.
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