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Coremouse

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About Coremouse

  • Birthday 10/15/1989

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    Pracha Uthit Bangkok

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  1. If you're Chinese or Indian passport, max 1 TV at Savann per 365 days. I just got refused officer said "you already got one from us. No 2nd time." 5 seconds I'm out. ( while Vientiane refused said "you're Chinese passport, you can't apply here at Vientiane just travelling from Thailand, unless you have work or residence in Laos". Both did not bother to check my documents, just see Chinese or Indian passport + last trip stamp, rejected in 5 seconds. I travelled back visa exempt from Savann, since it's second exempt this yr Officer questioned me ALOT and seriously states "next time you should have visa, no exempt", and writes down somthing maybe "2 entries already" or "friendship brdge 2" on my passport above entry stamp? Wrote too cursive can't see clear ) But I recor as if you aren't Chinois or Indien zero prob with that. Should get TV per usual procedure, without issue.
  2. For anyone says "Chinese use lithium themselves, and lead-acid only for export". NOPE n Nope -- reality is the inverse: Chinese ( many of us are pauper ) use 99% lead-acid themselves, and lithium-ion too expensive only for export for the Riche ( well, maybe also for some Chinese rich kids who doesn't needs a moped anyway ). Period.
  3. I just searched recent models from Big Giant Brands of Chinese "elec-jackass", Lvyuan, Yadee, Aimaa etc.... Yeah confirmed again just as I said, they're 99% lead-acid, us Chinese folks aren't Riche... If anyone saying we use lithium ourselves and lead-acid for export??? Heck??? Are you going to pay us for the Li-ion expensive budget. Of course deep-cycles are inherent lesser life than shallow ones like cars' 12V battery, but man elec-mopeds are such a light load, doesn't taxxing on batteries at all. And from personal and my relatives everyones' experience those are darn very reliable. Almost complete maintenance-free. Since deep-cycles and NiCads are most reliable batteries as a common sense. And lithium? Like 18650s when discharged, just forget to immediate recharge, and next day you got a piece ova junk jumped CID valve... Irrepairable.
  4. Hello Sir as a Chinese may I point out, 99.99% mopeds are your daily deep-cycle lead acid batteries. Chinese aren't rich, and li-ion are expensive for the rich folks( which they don't need mopeds anyway ). Since China outlawed most motorcycles, almost ALL bikes are lead-acid mopeds, and they nicknamed "elec-jackass". Those're truly workhorse for all us paupers, village farm teenagers, everyone. Those're truly reliable & cheap & good for daily grocery runner. But one thing Chinese roads traffic are slowish needs patience, and inside Chinese city & townships commutes are really short distance per usual. It's heck different compare to Thailand. So if needs a elec-moped should judge your actual requirements. Pros: cheap, easy to handle, reliable almost maintenance-free. Cons: darn heavy and awkward if out of battery. Fragile if accident. Darn short range, very short. Lead-acide bike-type mopeds should always stay within 15km, and only voyage 20km if neccessary, never more than that. Tricycle type( Chinese nicknamed "happy granpa" ) had much better range. Also there's lead-acid "elec-motorcycle" which much heavier, much longer range than puny awkward mopeds, but rumors they're too powerful and heavy tolls on excited younglings lives.
  5. I suggest a better number than milleage, age etc., ask the seller for engine compression test numbers, BOTH without AND with a spoon of oil, & photo. Or ask seller let you test it, simple only took 10 minutes anyway. It shows engine abuses situation, prevent big engine / cooling / oiling risk, and unless the seller spent money to rebuild they can't cheat too much, if a cylinder shot it's shot. ( If provides both with/without oil numbers, only way to cheat would be seller using fake comp tester. And usually easy to tell as you could approximate all comp numbers relation for certain engine / CR, that cheater could may make mistake exposing cheat ) Sadly unlike western, almost all sellers don't provide compression numbers, even modified car seller mostly won't have. And since language barrier almost 100% they won't let you tackle spark plugs and test it yourself. Only very few handy car guys selling their own old car do kept up to date compression records
  6. Is that really possible, as Thailand swap motor is easy and joy, you're almost just reading at an particular ECU age, that's supposing it's readable and can't reset... like my daily is '94 not that old, even then the engine doesn't even know what OBD1 is, less OBD2 & Canbus etc.... As the engine might be a fresh import used, and ECUs are swappable, the actual 'car' might seen many times milleage then what it shows. I guess more reliable is Chassis age, as long it didn't welded firewall and tackle VIN plate with "connections". Judging chassis age plus whether rusty plus how many parts out of spec... We could guess how abused the car is and ballpark guessing actuall milleage lol
  7. When I rebuilt my cars' engines( DIY changed everything ARP everything ), I usually fill cheap 50w mineral oil, drive about 60miles( from cold start to very warm, gave various load but absolute no violent abuses ), go back home change oil, and consider breaking-in mostly been dealt with. Could give it abuses very soon confirmed EFI & everything working accordingly. And these rag DIY rebuilt, half-a** broke-in engines served me good. Even stocko pistons they stood higher boost and redline and funky thingymajiks and reliable even to this day...
  8. Not sure about the legend but V2-34 is pretty much the most advanced, most reliable tank engine of the era, Big Diesel with dry sump + DOHC + alum block steel sleeves + alum head + distribution pump etc... Pretty much a 90s modern engine time travelled back to 1931, and was solid modern original design until into 21st century. If anything unreliable on T-34 I would more suspect vintage simple mesh gear than a very moderm, perfected alum Diesel engine... Yes I think the modified design is still the backbone of T-72, T-90, and many heavy or light APCs n civil engineering cars... One would worrie about break-in are the nazis... Not because design but lack of high quality lubricants( at least according to that Haynes kats manual ), pretty much only have soupy or water-y sus substances when the war turned against them, Maybach is forced to use integrated roller bearings on crankshaft because otherwise journal would explode in no time, Oh also since only soviets use modern diesel at wwii, and nazi gasoline engines are high-rpm and momentum, are a very much frequent sight of conrod-penetrating cylinder blocks...
  9. First I dont think buy used car in Thailand is 'pitfall', if lucky it could be value-cost charming like any developed coutry; of course language barrier is a problem. Some thing on my mind: A. avoid cars from another province if wanna transfer register under your name; re-register plate to your TM30 address is un-neccessary hassle. Buy from local Thai is easiest; Buy from local foreigner is also easy and less lan. barrier; Buy from another province needs to transfer plate to your local DLT which is hassle, more hassle if owner's foreigner buy if owner's experienced willing to help is doable; Buy from other province, un-experienced foreign owner is a big no-no. ------------- B. At least inspect under-chassis, test drive extended distance. because in Thailand let alone language barrier, owner usually won't agree proper compression test( EXTREMELY IMPORTANT could saves tons of hassle, but difficult to convince owner with language barrier ), remove spark bore inspection, remove plastics to check rust etc. If owner is a car guy and took cared the car then perfect. But usually when buying an used car you should B.1. adds up budget for engine rebuild( very cheap in asia ); B.2. and when bought though check gas tank / brake / hoses / wheel bearing / any wiring fault for safety; B.3. some budget for renovation ( some usuals are sensory / suspension / clutch / distro etc. ). Then if the car is not f***ed beyond any salvation, should be performing just like a new car, performance-wise. ------------- C. Thailand new-car price are very expensive, the used-car market was agreeable for many types of classic cars, but covit-nonsense f***ed the market and used-price also rose up a lil. TorRorOr yearly MOT is agreeable friendly, or should I say relaxing, in Thailand. Very easy to keep a car road legal, most important just make sure lights and brakes are proper. Even change engine serial is easy with proper serial-register receipt.
  10. Yes has that too, stereo vision sort. But very easy. physical exams are 1 tell color, 2 align sticks, 3 watch light fast brake, 4 peripheral sillius sort. btw. It's now at building 4 for exam, renew etc.
  11. Just remember parking as always is jammed at Mochit DLT, so arrive earlier the better... Nowadays Bkk seems road maintenance/blocked/traffic jam everywhere... I live at sounthern, western part of Bangkok and major roads are reduced to half width( Suksawat, Rama2, BangBuaThong, MahaNakhon highway etc. all under heavy maintenance and construction at same time ), sigh... I guess maybe when covit lock down - slight lower traffic, they decided let's renovate roads no biggie, but before they could finish road renovation works - now covit relaxed, and huge massive traffic...?
  12. Just renewed my outdated 5yr DL at Mochit(Chatuchak) DLT, yes booking is required I got there to apply at early-Nov and earliest available booking is 7th-Dec, near a month long you need generic documents per usual, A. medical cert( recommend at any JCI or reputable hospital or clinic, as nearby buffalo bridge hospital attitude s*cks last experience been there ); B. formal address proof, tabien baan or WP with address or Embassy notorial etc. C. current visa extenstion page permission of stay etc. At booked date just go there, take physical exam, watch 1hr video, pay 505 THB and get your DL very smooth, but may take time several hours thus arrive earlier the better. Strange though my new DL got 6 yrs validity did they go to 6 yrs from 5yrs? Or is the result I updated just passed near my birthday date, lol Physical exam has newer equipment and much smooth than before, but peripheral test still as hard as f*-word. I got very good vision and peripheral sense, but telling colors from peripheral vision is not easy, yes I could easily distinguish them from intensity, but without prior test I think not many could tell colors/intensity correspondence at first hand? Lol now think about it, they had 2 peripheral test devices one not used, maybe it's for testee to familliarize, but test managers are very relax & friendly so it's smooth anyway
  13. To be honest, as a Chinese, I feel the average of Thailand car drivers already much surpassed China, normie Chinese drivers blowing horns first before indicator, and many also forget indicators at all. Thus living in China is super noisy with all loud horns from the street. I think a mature driving culture is much more important than "teaching" "driving school" "DL exam" etc. Because China followedJapanese "strict" route and surpassed it, has most expensive, most through, most exhausting driving license issurance in the world, for a country average salary maybe ~400-500USD at many cities, DL usually requires 1000-1200USD, and exams+compulsory driving school usually take 6 months to 1 year. Also China has smart traffic cams at extreme density for police benefits. Tax & inspection are much more difficult even than Japan. Guess what? Majority Chinese driver still the most clueless drivers in the world. Compare to cars bikes are more scary part in Thailand cities, we all know bike accidents and extreme stunts(on public road, maybe snaking through big busses) are routine sight every week... Personally I love loud bike motors especially 2 stroker, but most annoying are many extreme slow bikes also being extremely loud, the silly roaring of at most 1 or 2 cylinders.
  14. To be honest, for brief check, even mechanic could only verify these obvious things - rust, paint, noise I'm a DIYer, rebuilt several engines with good results, roadtuning ECU with buttdyno, currently welding chromoly frame etc. Of course I understand we need AT LEAST check compression/leakdown, borescope inside cylinders, check turbo fins & runout, all brake hoses/pistons, all hydraulic seals not leaking, and maybe 50km test drive... And for some fishy used car, also check all wire looms/ECU connectivity/sensors. Reality is, it needs equipments, costly, and at least a full day. And more Importantly: NO used car seller would EVER allow that. Personally I want minimal a simple compression test, but no seller would even allow that. So just check obvious things, make sure the car (at least seems) driving reliable, and examine whether acceptable based on price/value. Of course it would be great if to buy a used car with complete modification list/measurements sheet/service records, but these are a rare specie in Thailand. Just think clear your requirements for the car, pick some you like, and brief check for whether it's acceptable.
  15. I was on non-B and for this time stayed here since 2019, because job cancelled had to apply covid-extension 5 times, and they straight refused 6th. They're asking me for embassy support letter, which embassy stopped issuing since last amnesty, not even flight ticket.
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