Jump to content
BANGKOK

Metropolitian

Advanced Members
  • Content Count

    983
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

569 Excellent

About Metropolitian

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

1,427 profile views
  1. Yes I mean Watt, Steven Watt. 2006 he moved to Swansea City. So I think you are right too.
  2. Isn't she cute? But she aint a Scotman
  3. Really a 'must' to use X2 rated capacitor opposite to other kinds of capacitors. It's a feed that gets beating 50 times in a second continuously and X caps are more suitable for such task. Failing caps are dead shorts and that would pass the 230 mains to the led, poof. Leds cost near to nothing. Thinking about using cap drops for the ESP boards, would be better with zener (5.6v) and fuse. Or 'bigger cap ' like the 225K and little transformer for 24v to... 5v. Not sure yet. What would you do? Just what I had imagined
  4. No, I did not mean to say that so I didn't. It's common sense to use one of suitable voltage (it's more important that it's an X2 type) -and- we are talking about capacitve dropper, not a elco (dc) or ladder structure which holds strong charge. It would not always much, but yes it can, hold a charge. You can shunt it with a bleeding resistor of 1Mohm, which empties such a fully charged cap of 0.1u in 0.6 seconds. As indicator light connected in parallel it will eventually bleed out fast caused by the connected electronics at the mains side. Used just as one thing, only the led and nothing else, where you pull it from the mains then you need the shunted resistor for bleeding the cap. A capacitor in this setup (X2 , 100n) has 32Kohm resistance and a no-load voltage of around 4V and 8mA when put in series on the mains. Add the 500 Ohm (470Ohm) is good for using one led. Most leds are happy with 20mA and around 2 volt (Green 2.2 and red 1.8) I would use the three leds with a 1.2K in series each led, with 1uF cap which gives you no-load voltage of 24 volt and 40mA.
  5. If you want keep it : Give it a nice casing, like this one and you can put in four of those breakers/switches. If you want to tidy it , and are okay with a replacement, go for a 'stand-alone' like this one.
  6. Will explain the last line, just that. It's a C16 breakers, these trips 'direct' at around 7 times the amp rating when the short is in the 10ms-2sec. (112Amp) Was it an B16 breaker, then it would direct trip around the 4 times the amp rating in the same time span. (64Amp) A dead short is higher amps, but the fuse was probably an quick(er) type and without the fuse the breaker would eventually had tripped. Give it a nice home though
  7. Beated me to it and this one I forgot to suggest and is absolutely true. The same for light fittings.
  8. Looks intact. A good clean, contacts, eggs out and checking the base for cracks. Check the amp sizing. Don't forget to get some spare fuses and keep it near the switch. For good measure, hook a modern breaker after it with smaller amp rating.
  9. Do the simple cleaning myself, has to be done every 2 months. Lot of land development around, mudtrucks driving up and down. Asked the price with some of the cleaners that shows up in the soi. 500thb for one, and 300-400thb for additional ac. Deep cleaning and checkup I let them do once in two years.
  10. Do you have capacitor 100n (marked 104) on hand? Use that in series with one resistor and the led, and the led in parallel with diode other way around.
×
×
  • Create New...