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Maizefarmer

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Posts posted by Maizefarmer

  1. Blocking the caller seldom works - stalkers are usually determined & persistant folk - they move on to some other plan and if he is who you think he is he'll already have noted all the personal info from your partners hospital file (home number, address, next of kin ....blah blah, blah blah) - they then start using 3rd party phones e.g. public phone boxes.

    I was going to say go stand next to him in the hospital - then phone his number and see if it rings - that will answer that, but then it occured to me that he has no doubt blocked his caller id, and in any case he may not be using his own mobile (though they often do until you block it) - so not such a bright idea.

    If you're willing to throw some money at the matter I know a man who has access to the "contacts & resources" to quickly id and confirm/eliminate a suspect - if you point the suspect out to him. If he knows who the suspect is he'll establish discreetly what is number(s) are and will then speak to whoever he needs to (contact at tel-co/service provider I assume) to establish if their number(s) have been used to call your partners number. Send me a private message if think this may help.

  2. Can't think of why one would want to do it because its such a thankless job and pain in the arse.

    'Cause if they weren't doing it they'd be organising little residents' commitees, and setting little laws in their moo bahns, and going around making sure everyone's lawn was cut to the regulation height, and their laundry couldn't be seen from the street, and their car was parked exactly 6" from the curb, and all the other sad little self appointed tasks of the common pedantic busy body. You're right about them being a pain in the arse though.

    What's wrong with that? personally i think you have to have to much time on your hands to do this but im happy some do.

    We live in a country where people are closer to domestic animals than human being because of the lack of teachings and structure. People making ridiculous laws in their moobaans are just trying to keep them clean like in the west.

    Nobody does it in my moo baan and theres rabid dogs, litter on the street, people throw their dog poo in the middle of the street, theres speed racers theres car parked sideways in the middle of the intersections and theres trees that block the views completely so if you wish to turn a corner you cannot ever know if you're gonna get hit by one of the speed racer. Also my moobaan isnt low class, i dont even wanna think what a low class moobaan would look like and i dont want to know whats its gonna look like when it turns 5-10 years old.

    Seriously, the only bad apple of the tourist police are the ones hanging in bars with their belly out, and if you see them, thats means your part of that group.

    Can you explain your first paragraph (we live in a country where people .......) ..............?? I trust a MOD wrote to you and marked your card??

  3. Who knows - in both cases a large slice of the retail price is for the brand name, not the quality of the clothing e.g. counterfeit Levi 501's made in Thailand (no genuine 501's are made in Thailand - only 2 factories in the world where 501's are made) will last just as long as the real McCoy, but will cost less than half the price of the genuine article.

    It's the brand name thats determines retail price - not side by side quality. Another point to keep in mind here is that JT is known primarily for the silk it makes - its shirts are value added products. TB doesn't manufacturer the material they make shirts from so far as I know - they buy it from 3rd party manufacturers, then commission a factory to make the shirt. Same same Nike - Nike doesn't own a shoe factory anywhere in the world, and doesn't make shoes/trainers - Nike's asset base and share value is it's brand name (and trade mark: the "Swoosh" symbol) - Nike designs shoes, but all Nike production is contracted/sub-contracted out to independently owned shoe making factories, who will/could be making for Puma, as well as Reebok, as well as Saucony et etc .......... they all run pretty much the same business model.

    JT and TB side by side .... I'd say they're pretty much on par with each other, both nice products, but as you point out, each with a slightly different cut - so the better one is going to be the one that fits you more comfortably, as it with with trainers ..... they're all pretty much the same quality nowadays.

  4. Pepper Spray - it's illegal - period, but easily purchased and lots of folk keep one in the cubby hole of their cars (and elsewhere). Get caught and it will probably get taken away from you - and expect to pay PLOD a "confiscation admin fee" - I'd think it very unlikely you'd get thrown out. Have a formal complaint laid against you for using it and PLOD now has to placate the complainant as well - things could get complicated.

    Valium - also illegal without a doc's perscription, but like pepper spray, lots of pharmacists have stock and Thailand's CD (controlled drug) auditing is a mess - so its easy to sell under the counter, and many pharmicists do.

  5. The type of foreigner who claims that all Thais hate or despise or look down on us, is usually the type who hasn't gotten away from the tourist scene or the types who are on the tourist scene.

    My thoughts exactly. Some of these people can actually remain in 'tourist Thailand' for years without actually realising it :):D

    ..... more than a kernel of truth in that statement: given how some ex-pats (and other ethnic group foreigners) behave when they come out here on holiday (in ways they don't back home - hence the regular Thai break), can we blame those locals that do take issue with foreigners?

    If anything, the locals are pretty tolerent towards visitors.

  6. Single phase submersible electric pump will do the job just fine - ac, only because alternating current doesn't loose much power over distance, and the power source is readily avaliable, as are pumps to run off it - or if its a dc submersible pump, at least run ac down to the bottom of the valley, then rectify and regulate it for whatever dc voltage/current is required (most submersible pump manufacturers that supply dc type pumps will be able to offer a ac/dc circuit as part of the package). I've said nothing here about solar - solar panels that are a long way from the house and can't be viewed/covered easily, a) don't tend to function well at all when placed in low down positions on the sides of hills/slopes etc...... the miss half the days sun, and :) they tend to go walkabout after a while (good chance it'll get nicked unless you can secure it somehow, which usualy means covering it and that leads to them working even less efficiently!), and last but not least, no ways you are going to be able to run solar panel generated dc current downhill 200m plus distance angle, and expect it to work efficiently - you'd to double up on the panel requirement and then also run some enormously thick cable - hel_l knows what it would add to the overall cost(??). I just can't see it been worth it or practical.

    You'll need a submersible that is capable of more than 20bar pressure (to get up the 200meters or so of vertical lift), and provide whatever flow rate per minute/per hour or whatever to fill your storage tank however often and with however much water to want - which is all about the power needed, but thats what submersible are all about, and I'd have thought its all going to be well within what you can get setup off domestic ac amperages (unless you are wanting to pump something like 500litres a minute at 25bar - things are then going to complicated and expensive!!!). In short: so what if its only a small sub pump that is going to pump something like 5 - 10 litres a minute @ 20plus bar - theres no rush if you have a decent sized storage tank - just let the pump run longer.........

    Then you have to run your water piping - schedule 40 or some other thick wall pvc type piping with around 2" - 2,5" max ID will be fine (you ain't going to want to be pumping so much so quickly so that friction loss becomes an issue). Bury it in the ground if you can -will last for ever. PVC piping is cheap as chips in Thailand - the country is one of the worlds biggest manufacturers of the stuff.

    Put a check valve in at the bottom and at the top.

    A roll of decent diameter ac cabling - bury it long side the water pipe - you may want to thread it through 1" diameter pvc piping to keep the moisture off - won't add much to the overall cost.

    ..... thats how I would go about things: keep it all as simple as possible, and use local materials and locally avaliable hardware where ever possible - pump brand name options: both Grundfoss or Lorentz will have submersible options off the stock shelf in Thailand that will easily do this job for you - Grundfoss is my personal preference, but thats just a personal opinion - Lorentz is probably just as good.

    Lastly - this is a well as opposed to a borehole? ......get some re-bar and weld up a grid to put over the top of the well - and/or weld up a box/tube out of re-bar large enough to hold the submersible in and then maybe even chain it down - doesn't need explaining does it(?).

  7. Hotel and other folk who interact with tourists anywhere in the world are paid to smile – nothing about that which is unique to Thailand. The point remains: where ever you go in the world, going to where ever on holiday is never the same as going to where ever to live and work , or retire, and in that respect, like any where else in the world, Thailand is little different.

    The land of smiles is a marketing gimmick as is Thai Airways' “smooth as silk” statement.

    Rasicm and getting ripped off?

    Thai's are constantly ripping each other off, as much if not more so than they rip foreigners off. As for rasicm – it's like getting ripped off – if the comparison is with “friendlyness”, yes I can see the contrast, but the reality is that a large factor in these ideas/attitudes that folk have of Thai's and Thailand are really about poor communication.

    Lets take the Thai language out of the equation, and however impractical it probably is, lets imagine that Thai's spoke English. Now I think many of the perceptions folk have would vanish – only because we can understand the other person.

    As I have said many times before on the forum: Thai's have the same understanding of concepts like morality & immorality, honest and dishonesty, loyalty and disloyalty, as we have – they are human, just like us, and as a cultural/ethnic/racial group (or however one wishes to catorgirise them), Thai's are no more or less likely to be honest/dishonest, loyal/disloyal, intelligent/unitelligent, moral/immoral …... etc etc ….... than any other racial/ethnic or cultural group in the world.

  8. Thanks for the useful replies. The land is not near her family and there is no plans for a business. She already has other land for collateral and earns good money.

    Regarding the bank only giving 50% for land purchases, we can probably live with that, however I'm suspicious of the 'business loan' suggestion, as I guess the interest rate is higher.

    I also read on the BB site that they require a sales agreement before considering the loan. It seems a bit risky to agree and put a up a deposit if one is not sure that finance is available.

    Thats exactly what he's doing. The "sales agreement" with the seller should include a small print clause "subject to buyer accepting interest rate offered by mortgage lender", or, more discreetly "subject to lenders terms & conditions". Now you can call his bluff (the bank can't do business otherwise) - tell them to call when ready, in the meantime you guys are off to talk to other potential lenders.

  9. Okay – here we go …................ the key info in the attached PDF flow chart (which are the figures for the PS 1200 I have managed to find on the net) is the info on the right against the yellow background: which illustrates wattage required/used (the figure in the very last yellow box on the right hand side of the page preceding the letters “Wp”) for a particular flow rate.

    Perhaps it would help if I explained what a complete row of figures on the chart mean't in layman terms:

    Starting from the top left hand side of the 2nd page of the PDF doc, the first row of block surrounded figures (immediately underneath the conversion tables) starts off like this:

    80m 90m 100m 120m 140m 160m 180m 200m 230m vertical lift solar generator

    Underneath each figure followed by the letter “m” are the words “fixed” or “tracked” - below which start a set of figures typed in blue boxes. The “fixed” or “tracked” words refer to the solar panel setup you have: fixed means the solar panels are stationary and are not mounted to a mechanism which moves them around to follow the sun in an arc, and tracked means they are mounted on a mechanism that allows them to moved around, angled perfectly with the sun so that max energy is obtainable throughout the day.

    … and following that, underneath are 2 flow rate figures e.g. under 80m are the figures 3.8 (below the wordfixed”) and 5.1 (below the wordtracked”) - the meaning of which I'm pretty sure you understand i.e. you'll get 3.8 m3 (cubic meters or tons) per day pumped from solar panels which are “fixed”, or 5.1 m3 per day if the solar panels follow the sun around ("tracked").

    But what power is required to pump that amount of water(?) - and that's where the figures in the yellow boxes on the right hand side of the page come into play: they tell you 3 important pieces of info:

    1) the quality of the sunlight over a square meter as an irradiation figure in kilowatt hours per day (given as kWh/m2/day)

    2) the power your pump will actually need (Wp i.e. watts) and

    3) the the thickness that your copper needs to be in the cable that is carrying the current to the pump over whatever the distance is (the longer the distance the thicker the cable needs to be – else you will suffer substantial voltage/current drop between the solar panels and the pump).

    … and using the first row of figures as an example, it simply means that from a depth of 80meters, your PS 1200 pump will be able to lift/pump 3.8 cubic meters of water if you are using enough stationary solar panels which can supply your pump with 350watts of energy – and to generate that amount of energy, the sunlight quality will need to be at least 4.5 Kw/per square meter (but the more the better) up to around 7.5 Kw per square meter.

    If however you have a solar arrangement that can follow the arc of the sun as it travels across the sky, then you are going to be able to use the sunlight more efficiently, and you could now get as much as 5.1 cubic meters per day pumped from the depth of 80meters – simply because, by tracking the panels with the sun the average amount of power they will be able to extract from light per square meter will be greater (i.e. more energy)

    As a side-note, if you compare the energy per square meter from the sun to what a modern solar panel actually produces you quickly see just how inefficient solar panels actually are!!

    Notice how as you move down the graph so the amount of water that is pumped (as the depth increases) drops, and at the same time, the amount of energy required (yellow boxes) increases … and both quite dramatically so!

    In short Mr Wiggles, no way are you going to get 21 tons of water per day from 240meters – not a chance in hel_l. Those sorts of figures manufacturers love to print up – they are accurate figures, but they need to be understood in their correct context, which are seldom (if ever) real world conditions.

    You are going to get flow rates from given depths as illustrated in the chart - which are going to be dependent on not only the amount of solar panels you have, but also the quality of the sunlight avaliable and the solar panel angle relative to the sunlight (and therefore there ability to extract energy from the sunlight), and the thickness of the cable supplying the power to the pump.

    PS - just because a solar panel is a 100watt panel does not mean you will get 100 watts from it - how much you actually get will be dependent on the quality of the sunlight and the angle of the panel to the sunlight, which changes throughout the day, meaning the only time you are likely to get the full 100watts is for that brief period of time that the sunlight is falling directly on the panels. The rest of the time the wattage they produce will vary from as little as 10watts/20watts to 70watts/80watts - as the sun moves through the sky and the intensity of the light on the panel changes. In reality the average power a 100watt panel produces throughout each day is something like only half its rated output i.e. 50watts or so!!!! I think this is the one factor that folk fail to factor into solar pump setups.

    The reality of solar setups are somewhat/very different to how they can appear "in print".

    EDIT NOTE ... the dam_n PDF won't upload - I suspect it has something to do with the fact that I use LINUX and not Windows is my OS - anyway, the webpage for the PS 1200 data is:

    http://www.lorentz.de/en/products/ps/1200

    Download and print it out your side for reference.

  10. Cheers for that.

    On the info they sent me, they quoted the larger pump, the ps 1200, can lift water 'up to' 240m at a rate of 21m3 per hour.

    wondering if this is realistic or somewhat exagerated....again, given a fine and glorious sunny day and all things good in the world.

    Hang on a sec - I'll go dig up PS 1200 graph out, but what little I remember of my 6 years or so of engineering study, something tells me that while those figures are certainly theoreticaly poss as max figures idependently, it's certainly ain't going to be 21tons per hour at 24bar ........ hel_l no, that would require 100kw (160hp) or more - not 2 x 100watt panels. Maybe, just maybe 1ton with 2 x 100watt panels!! It must mean the max lifting height would be around 240meters, at which point you'd get a few litres per hours, or if you were getting 21tons per/hr the lift height would be something like a couple meters at most .... pretty sure thats what Lorentz mean.

  11. You want to grow a cover crop to improve the soil so that you can then, afterwards, cultivate Jasmine or Soya, and you don't want to use fertilizer with the cover crop only, or you don't want to use it with either the cover crop or the subsequent crop? - have I read all that correctly?

    I'd like to stop fertilizer and pesticide for ever. The ground is exhaust from intensive farming. i should like to improve it on a way that respect nature quality. I guess that the yield will fall down for a some years but I don't care.

    Any of the crops reccomended by members above that help fix nitrogen into the soil will be a good starting point - the final choice been dependent on avaliable water (rain and/or irrigation), and weather or not you're prepeared to spend money irrigating. As much as you'd like to steer clear of added fertilser(s), adding a little to stimulate the cover crop first time round, if the soil is really that bad, may be a good idea - and then afterwards, by adhering to a soil supporting cultivation policy will help you stay away from additives later.

    Manures are good - all of them - with the general rule been, the drier/older when added and mixed in, the better - never add fresh/wet manure to a crop that is growing. Slurry form pig and dairy farms is great stuff as well if there is any around you and you have the means to transport it - just pour it on the soil and let it soak in, then give it a few weeks to break down (like fresh manure wet slurry will do more harm than good if there is a crop on the field)

    But preceding all this, you want to do 2 things:

    1) Rip the soil - tractor with a 2 or 3 point ripper. The deeper the better. This will restore drainage characteristics (rip from highest to lowest point i.e. across the contour lines - not with the contours)

    2) Leave for a couple of weeks, then plough it all up with a disc plough - leave for a week or so, spread your manure, slurry or whatever you want to add to the soil, and then cross-cut i.e. plough again with a disc plough, but this time at 90degrees angle to the first discing. This will mix in the slurry/manure well and provide a decent soil structure for the cover crop to grow on.

    Note - you are almost certainly going to get a ton of weed growth after the ploughing - especially if you do this just before the rainy season starts - and you will then be faced with having to decide how to deal with the weeds. If you get the timing right, you may well be able to get sufficient growth from a cover crop to stunt weed growth, but be certain - you are going to get a fair amount of weeds growing, however bareen the soil may currently appear.

  12. They recommend 2 x 100 watt cells....so what should that be able to do given a fine and glorious sunny day.

    .... for domestic usage/supply - 200watt should be plenty fine, and should easily move all the water you need whenever you need it - but it really is all about how deep you are going to be lifting the water from out of the bore hole that is going to determine just how much water you will be able to pump per watt. Somewhere around on the Lorentz website I think there is a chart which illustrates cubic meters(volume) versus depth versus wattage (amps & volts). If not there dig around on the Grundfoss website and you'll definetaly find one (for an equivilant sized pump) - and if you come unstuck, drop me note and dig out one from the catalouges I have lieing around.

    Having a storage/resivour tank (on a tower outside - nice and high for good tap pressure without having to use a second pump, or a smaller one in the attic) is a must because there will come a day on which for some or other reason your pump won;t work. The day will come on which it will get blocked, or the switch will break, or a bearing will go, or there'll be in-sufficent sunlight to support your water consumption for 2 or 3 days in a row - and you'll be mad for not having put in a storage tank to cover "pump downtime".

    Don't skip the storage tank - the higher & bigger the better.

    But in short: yes - 200watts should be just fine for the average domestic requirement.

  13. Phetaroi

    Your taxi driver was bang on the mark - the current government is indeed all about [self] reliance politics, and a large percentage of Thai society - excluding urban progressives, of course - are deeply resentful about this. That said, I have my doubts that Thaksin would have ultimately turned out to be the solution. Speaking for myself, I was glad to see the back of him (however illegal the coup was - and it was).

    Corruption and abuse of power for self gain seems to be common to most of the governments Thailand has had - they're all as bad as each other.

  14. Its a good quality product - but as a solar powered pump, the amount of water it lifts is really about voltage/current obtainable from the solar panel than about some or other unique advantage it has over other good European brand name submersible pumps(which it doesn't have) The safety features, and the efficiency features built into the control electronics are used by other big name submersible pump manufacturers (e.g. Grundfoss, Goulds ... and others).

    From a practicality point of view, which pump one uses often comes down to representation in Thailand - and in that respect, yes Lorentz is here and is well established. The other big name for top quality submersibles (in Thailand) is Grundfoss.

  15. Soi Sainumthip 2, Sukhumvit 22 - just before you turn the cnr to get to House By The Pond apartments there is a sinagoge (you can't miss it - its on the left hand side of the road).

    On the other side of the road to the sinagoge is a block of flats which is occupied by nearly all Jewish families.

    I think these guys are conservative Jews, still, they will be able to give you any info you want regards the Jewish community in Bangkok/Thailand.

  16. No doubt about it ....... the hint is crystal clear: monkhood is been suggested.

    Go for it: been there done that - its a great experience. Okay, clearly little point if your here just on holiday but if you're here to live, a few months in robes will be a big plus point and respect earner - and you might just learn something from it. 3 months is plenty plenty long enough.

  17. Seems we had a revolt recently.....Queeney departed and took some boys with her.

    But we found a new Queen, so they have taken care of themselves and made a new one.

    We also went and got another hive box and a new Queen and split what we had in the original hive.

    The farm where we get them from said if the Quenn was made on the roof of the hive, then it may be that the original Queen died and if they made her on the floor of the hive it is a sign of them swarming and running off.......no idea myself....any thoughts ??

    Yup - I've heard that one before as well and oddly enough, there is some truth to it, but I don't think many beekeepers understand exactly just what is going on.

    The truth is it is temp, humidity and ventilation that are the determing factors for workers when locating and queen cell - hence the position of a hive i.e. the side of the hive that gets more/less sun, or the side with the entrance most exposed to prevailing wind, rain, are indeed all factors which contribute to the micro-climate in a hive ( and bees are pretty good at regulating the temp & humidity in a hive - they are able to maintain different areas in a single hive at different temp and humidity levels) and will therefore impact on where workers may locate a queen cell.

    So, in the case of a queen suddenly dieing, workers will be keen to get a new queen bred as quick as possible - hence they may well select a location in a hive that has the right temp and humidity for a queen to develope quickly - and just where is this most likely? At the top of the hive where the timber is often damp from rain (humidity), and where the hive is warmest (temp)! Elevated temp and humidity are condusive to faster queen development.

    However, in the case of prepearing to swarm, which will not be such a rushed affair, workers will probably locate a queen cell where it is cooler i.e. on the floor of the hive which is closer to the entrance and more susceptible to temp and humidity flucutation from air movement in/out of the entrance of the hive.

    So yes, there is indeed truth to the statement that the location of a queen cell can often be an indicator of what has happened to the colony (e.g. has lost its queen), or what is about to happen to a colony (prepearing to swarm).

  18. Huey

    It would be close on impossible to give you a set of figures without some additional info to use as a starting point, but I'll share with you some of the factors you are going to have to take into consideration if you are going to cultivate cane and make a profit doing so:

    1.how many rai you decide to cultivate (economies of scale)

    2.how you plant the sets (i.e. pieces/segments of cane) – presume it will be manual labour, but how labourers will you employ and what row and set spacing will you use (which determines how much cane you will need to purchase per rai).

    3.Fetilizer – type and quantity will be dependent on soil type/condition, your planting density and the hybrid you decide to plant.

    4.how many harvests per year? - at max it will be 1 harvest per year, but more typically it will be one every 14 – 18 months, and what determines this are a variety of factors:

    - the type of cane/hybrid of cane you decide to cultivate (which depends on where in Thailand you are)

    - the soil conditions

    - the time of year you decide to plant(some hybrids do fine without irrigation and they are speaking the slower growing varities, and some are very much dependent on irriation to realise a decent yield.)

    5. Irrigation – energy costs for pumping can be high (electricy is cheaper than diesel)

    Ignoring hybrid type, plant spacing, irrigation or no irrigation, time year planted etc etc …..... all the above considerations (but this is not to say you can ignore them when you come to deciding to cultivate cane – you can't and you had better not if you want to make a profit!!), the average yield of cane per rai in Thailand is around 9 - 10 metric ton per rai (which for what it worth, converts to around 1 ton of sugar).

    Again, ignoring the above in detail, labour (planting & harvesting) accounts for around 42% – 54% of the total production cost per rai of cane cultivated – but there are extremes on each side which are determined by the amount of labour employed, the size of the farm and whether or not harvesting is mechanical or by hand.

    Speaking for myself (and most of the cane I grow I grow for on-farm cattle feed primarily) I can tell you that in 2008 it cost me around Baht 4300 per rai to cultivate. This figure includes all inputs (e.g. labour, set stock, fertilizer, irrigation, fuel, land prep blah blah, blah blah.....). Off hand I don't recall what farmers were getting per rai when selling to the mills in 2008 but there are a few members on the forum who cultivated over 2008 and they will be in a position to share that info with you. What I can tell you is that 2008 was a bad year all round – for farmers in general, not just sugar farmers. Fuel price escalated fast & furiously, so did fertilizer and consequently it was a bad year all round for the ag industry, cost wise.

    There is one more point to keep in mind about growing cane – and failure to factor for this (in so much as its possible), and to plan ahead with accuracy and certainty will ultimately determine whether or not you make a bit of money (let alone a decent profit), or loose the shirt off your back: is logistics (transport).

    This one factor is the cane farmers annual/18 month nightmare. Harvesting cane and getting it to a mill can be like trying to get a taxi from the new airport minutes after a dozen flights have landed – supply versus demand.

    There are only so many trucks avaliable in each area and the truck owners all want to be transporting for the biggest farms, and they all want to be in the front of the unloading que at the mill. While sitting around 6 – 8hrs is quite normal at some mills, its not unknown for trucks to have to sit around for 2 days waiting to get unloaded …... while your labourers are sitting around for 2 days doing nothing, or you get all your cane cut and then can't find a truck to transport for you at the cost that you budgeted for because everyone else is getting their cane cut at the same time and the truck owners know they can bargin hard.

    Burning cane before transporting it means you can get as much as 25% more cane onto a truck – and thus reduce your transport costs to the mill. It also makes manual harvesting much quicker and easier – reducing labour costs on the field. The problem though is this: burn to get rid of all the organic trash, cut it and have it ready “to go”, and then not be able to find transport risks the loss of the crop as burnt cane can fast deterioate if not processed within a a couple days or so.

    Transport/logistics of getting cane to the mill can quickly turn into a profit/loss factor for you if not planned for carefully.

    Traditionaly cane farmers in Thailand breakdown their total cultivation costs down so that “cutting & transport” are treated as a single item on the balance sheet. Cutting cane (labour) and getting it to the mill (the transport part) will vary from around Baht 300 per ton to around Baht 500 per ton, with the transport bit, depending on the distance from the mill, been the majority of that cost.

    Cane its self is not a very hard crop to cultivate – I hope these brief comments though, convey the importance of understanding all the points that have to be taken into consideration, and the careful planning and prep work that has to be undertaken, if it's to be profitable.

    All the best

  19. You want to grow a cover crop to improve the soil so that you can then, afterwards, cultivate Jasmine or Soya, and you don't want to use fertilizer with the cover crop only, or you don't want to use it with either the cover crop or the subsequent crop? - have I read all that correctly?

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