sometimewoodworker

That's something I gave up when I could afford to pay people to get their hande oily and when I got motorcycles that didn't need to be worked on. YMMV.

While I can't comment on Bangkok shops we went into a shop selling curtains. They made curtains and roller blinds to our specification, one of the roller blinds has a silver coating on the back while not being a completely solid material, it reduces the sunlight heat by about 90% there were many colours and styles to choose from.

Humm, when I bought the one I opened in the picture above there were no terminal covers in the box. Next time I'm in those places I will check to see if I can find anything. Thanks, BTW do you have a picture of a surface mount RCB? I'm being lazy but I should probably be using one of those on my home made wire wheel and buffing station, so if you've got a picture I won't have to argue that they do actually have one. I can find DIN and Cu fitting ones, but so far not surface mount.

Did you add an extra number? 6mm copper from each meter will be more than enough. So you are saying that it's showing a 10A draw with everything turned off? If so then you probably have pirates stealing power. 30A is a little high for an MCB. I wouldn't go over 25A 30 should be OK for a safe-T-cut, as it's the line neutral imbalance that's going to trip it, and the MCB that trips on sustained over current.

@Crossy while I understand that what is in place is not OK practice in many places as most want everything to be in a Consumer unit. If the correct value surface mount RCBOs and surface mount MCBs are in place, wires are correctly sized etc is it intrinsically any less safe? Apart from the lack of earthing currently in place, that is. It seems as if it's the same as a regular CU that got exploded and scattered around the house It will certainly avoid any possible problems with shared neutrals though it could need a few more RCBOs and MCBs. Also careful segregation of wire before and after MCBs but nothing that's rocket science. From my evisceration of my unit they also need the neutral for the neon lamp to tell you the current is actually on.

That exact range is not on the Thai web page I linked to above, there is an 11.9 and 17.7 but no 14.3. The only 14.x is a 14.4 in a different range. So either the website is out of date or your brochure is listing an old model, or they have different models for English speakers The model numbers are more helpful for tracking down the exact unit.

You are asking questions that are better answered by someone who is more familiar with that kind of setup. However that 60A unit unless it's an RCCB (safe-T-cut) needs to go and be replaced by something smaller as it will never trip and almost certainly is too big for the cables. The setup that is in place could be usable. The circuit breakers are there to protect the wires not the things running, a 10A breaker will probably allow 15A for hours and bigger currents for a shorter period. With big wires you can always use smaller SMMCBs (surface mount miniature circuit breakers) but it's always the wires that are protected. With the SMMCBs you need both line and neutral (the neon needs that. In a CU it's only the line that goes through. What problems are there? Or is it just to be safer? If just to be safer then, subject to correction, an RCCB or two ( one for each meter) and probably resizing the SMMCBs to match the size of wire that they are on could be the answer, certainly cheaper that fitting a modern CU. the benefit would be that the local Sparks will understand and be able to maintain it. You have talked about a voltage stabiliser but we haven't seen it yet, still waiting on the pictures of the meter and the cable sizes. TTFN

@Crossy will know exactly what they are I could be completely wrong and they are just surface mount units like these circuit breakers. that go into a consumer unit. I don't particularly want to open the one I have to check as I'm going to install it soon and I might just let the magic smoke out. Anyway unless someone knows the Lao meter names you probably need a picture of the 3/9 meter as the current rating will be on it together with an estimate of the wire size (it may be printed on the wires) coming from it into your 60A circuit breake. I think I've reached my level of safe knowledge now. EDIT I've just proved that with the Chang breakers I may have exceeded it, see under I lied, I've just opened one (no magic smoke release) they do function in a similar way to the ones in a regular CU I don't know how much current has to pass through them for the heated metal strip to trigger, certainly more than the rating. So these need to match the size of the cables feeding them. The guidelines are here The thing you seem to be missing (unless that 60A unit is one from the French system) is an RCCB

I think you have no circuit breakers at all, apart from the 60A one. You just have switches like this one. is that that what you have?

Actually, I'm guessing here, there may be no consumer unit at all, just a lot of things wired directly from the meter all going through that 60 amp circuit breaker then to double pole switches that are being called circuit breakers like the 2 in the bottom picture. They have no trip rating the 30A is just the power that they can carry and being called a safety breaker doesn't make them a circuit breaker, except in the sense that any switch breaks a circuit! @ilikethai is there anything that looks remotely like this?

As crossy has said that does not make any sense for Thailand. However the load will not be more than a 5/15 meter will handle, assuming the water heater isn't too big. Though for a better answer. What is the power of the water heater and how long is it switched on? FWIW the 5 sockets don't use power but if your going to be plugging more stuff in it will. The 60A is doing nothing and will probably never trip. It should protect the wires from starting fires and it won't.

Good to know that, the best place if you want a supply of just the plugs, at least round here, is Thai Watsadu, you can easily find smaller quantities on Lazada though I think the price might be a little high. AFIK these are the available sizes. the smallest screw I use is a No 7 the biggest a No 12

That would be my choice. Though I don't see any model at Top Cool that is exactly that size.

AFIK all the older style metal plugs worked on just expanding a relatively smooth body to grip and I was using them 50 years ago myself. I think the saw edged version may be designed for AAC and relatively new. Although AAC have been around for quite a few decades so maybe the saw edge plugs are not so new either.

Over sizing with a non inverter is an extremely bad idea, however since you will be getting an inverter that is much less of a concern. So I would go with 700 and get something slightly bigger rather than slightly smaller.