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bankruatsteve

DIY & Electrical Forum Expert
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About bankruatsteve

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    Semi Concerned
  • Birthday 08/11/1949

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    Thailand

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  • Location
    Now in Ban Dung, Udon Thani

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  1. Well... IMO that could work for a while. But it will eventually fill with debris/silt/etc. and you will be back where you started. Leave out the gravel would be better in that case. Then you could always flush it. Google "French drain" (which is basically what I proposed) and maybe you will get some more ideas. Cheers.
  2. Forgot to mention... The gravel and holes in the PVC only needed where the pooling occurs. The rest can be buried to the drainage area. Cheers
  3. Don't know where that one can be sourced. But an alternative is... 1. Dig a trench about 15cm deep that will direct the overflow to <somewhere else>. (you could stop here if you want to do it the upcountry Thai way) 2. Get enough 2" PVC to span the distance of the trench. 3. Drill 3/8" holes in the PVC about 20cm spacing. 4. Get enough small sized gravel to fill the trench (less the PVC). 5. Lay 3cm or so of gravel in the bottom of the trench. 6. Lay in the PVC holes down. 7. Top off with gravel. No more ground water pools.
  4. I'd give your local AC cleaning crew a chance at it - unless they want more than the normal cleaning price. Seems a shame to replace the whole unit. And again, I would give LG Customer Service a chance to make things good.
  5. Did he say exactly what he would "repair"? If the wasps/bees/whatever have gummed up the PC board, then that is likely going to need replace in any case (guessing B3000-5000). You might try calling LG customer service to get a quote and explaining what happened including their "technician" throwing prices at you. I'll bet you get a more considerate response. If you can figure out how to remove the board (probably need to unplug 4-5 connectors and whatever secures the board), that might help let you have at it for cleaning things up.
  6. You might be surprised at the R value of 7.5cm of AAC, but what many do is a double wall of the 7.5cm with about a 5cm gap. IE: matching the blocks to the columns which are usually 20cm. The gap is useful to run electric and plumbing as well as adding to sound insulation.
  7. Thanks for the correction. I incorrectly associated lime scale with TDS. I'm pretty sure softeners get rid of lime scale, yah?
  8. Again, I'm not much help with the larger filters other than what I have seen from others but that has no resemblance to the water softeners I have seen in the states. ??
  9. Yah, that doesn't sound right at all. How often do you regenerate? I've never owned one so no experience here but I'm told that regular backflushing is important.
  10. A good quality faucet made from stainless steel, brass, pewter, or certain alloys can resist high mineral content reasonably well. The strainer is an exception - I de-scale ours about every 6 months. The cheap faucets and valves will corrode within 1-2 years. I haven't seen any evidence of ill affects to PVC except where it will gum up ball valves and cause to stick. A water softener will bring the TDS down to low level and more expensive ionizers can pretty much eliminate TDS.
  11. Almost impossible to keep it straight with a jig saw. A normal carpenter's saw wiil do for manual cut. Not sure if that is considered "long".
  12. @Crossy switching just L as you diagrammed makes sense. For N, just stub out from main in to AVR input and leave whatever in place from main in to CU? Or??
  13. I don't know why you all think the structure needs more support? A properly designed cantilever does not need additional support. Whatever.
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