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What Did You Do to Your Bike Today ?


canthai55

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Ordered clutch bearings from Megazip, should be fun  replacing them. ????

Will be ordering tyres for my old Blade from Avon shop in Bkk, 11,000 bht the pair carriage to home free, so too bad.

Ordering other makes from abroad cost about the same or more because of postal charges.

Avon are the only supplier in Thailand that can supply the 130/16 front maybe that why the old tyres on bike are Avon.

Use to have Bridgestone on the Blade I had in UK.

 

 

Edited by Kwasaki
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On 10/11/2019 at 10:44 PM, Kwasaki said:

Cheers buddy I will go with this guy in P/lock as this workshop is the nearest type of big bike shop who knows of the legend of the CBR900RR Fireblade also it is the nearest to me, he speak some English and understands that I have a classic old bike as such so that helps I have more than just clutch bearings to sort, need carb overhaul kits, brake pads, brake hoses, tyres and maybe a front rim change from 16 to 17 which I don't wana do but finding a 130/70ZR/16 in Thailand is proving difficult.

Try Webike in Bangkok. They have a Japanese guy in their management and there's also a Webike Japan.

 

If you send them a message please use simple English.

 

    https://thai.webike.net/en/parts/mt/297?q=Honda+900+fireblade

 

Fir carb kits I reckon K & L. I've bought a kit from ebay, but here's K & L's website:

https://www.klsupply.com/carb-fuel/k-l-pro-carb-repair-kits.asp

  

 

     

Edited by Isaanbiker
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Today, I've turned the pilot screw for my front cylinder's carb 1/4th out to have a little bit richer fuel/air mixture. Then will check the color and get both cylinders spark plugs the same color with a healthy mixture.

 

Unfortunately, do I have to remove the air filter to get to the damn screw. But now I'm to 98.7 % close, girlie rides as fast as the devil. 

 

 

knob for carbs II.jpg

Edited by Isaanbiker
See my homemade screwdriver...
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Lifan X-plore-200.

papa had been running with dirt bike tires for the past year but

switched to the other street tires-wheels-chain-sprocket-rotor set-up

a couple weeks ago and have been tooling around on that.

Rear brake not braking this AM so

took into shop for fluid top-off/bleed.

He also tightened the bark-busters' mounts,

oiled the chain & kick-stand.

Material & labor B30.

????

 

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Lifan X-plore-200.
papa had been running with dirt bike tires for the past year but
switched to the other street tires-wheels-chain-sprocket-rotor set-up
a couple weeks ago and have been tooling around on that.
Rear brake not braking this AM so
took into shop for fluid top-off/bleed.
He also tightened the bark-busters' mounts,
oiled the chain & kick-stand.
Material & labor B30.
[emoji6]
 

Hope papa tipped him, sounds cheap


Sent from my iPhone using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app
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On 10/23/2019 at 10:20 PM, Kwasaki said:

Found another bad connection by luck today on my 25 year old bike would start up and then die just touching kill switch & starter switch wires, so that was some help.

Cut all harness cover and there were join connections on all wires a butcher job found again.

I suspected a kill switch wire and found a bad reading on the multimeter on in 1 of the 2 wires, whow what a relief from a nightmare of OK engine starting then stop dead situation.

Must get a new wiring harness made up, next job for sure.  

 

I've had some very similar issues on my also 24 year old bikie. One black wire coming from the starter switch was so stretched from turning left that it cut off one cylinder. 

 

  Left turn, engine almost died and nearly dropped me off when I wanted to ride out our place. Handlebar straight, all works well. Okay, easy to spot that it's somewhere in the harness. But where.

 

  A good trick is to use your fingernails to see if a wire is thinner, almost better than a meter that would read okay when straight. 

 

Of course a pain in the ar_e to open the whole harness and seek a faulty wire, but better than asking a Thai mechanic such a question.

 

   They would never find such a faulty wire, that's why they're so good and never fox things.

 

They only make things run, but not for long and you'll be back. Is it possible that the education has got something to do with it?

 

  Our son studied electronics for three years at the local technical college, but couldn't replace a light bulb without causing the bike to burn down. 

 

But we're working on it. ????????

Edited by Isaanbiker
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41 minutes ago, Isaanbiker said:

A good trick is to use your fingernails to see if a wire is thinner, almost better than a meter that would read okay when straight.

There were 6 wires coming from starter/kill switch in a harness wrap.

I had checked continuity with my multimeter already, I guess me pulling things about later finding fault with indicators right side front headlight and no hi beam had pulled on a connection.

I had cleaned plugs & connectors so knew they were OK but I needed to cut open harness switch side & plug end first, found there were shrink wire connections on all 6 wires.

I was hoping to find fault there because on the connector side going into dash unit & main harness would be major surgery. 

As luck would have it a continuity test on the 2 wires for the kill switch which I suspected as the fault, found one pulling slightly either side of the join a bad connection. 

All can say that I'm glad it's not a Goldwing with internal harness faults.  ????

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17 hours ago, Kwasaki said:

There were 6 wires coming from starter/kill switch in a harness wrap.

I had checked continuity with my multimeter already, I guess me pulling things about later finding fault with indicators right side front headlight and no hi beam had pulled on a connection.

I had cleaned plugs & connectors so knew they were OK but I needed to cut open harness switch side & plug end first, found there were shrink wire connections on all 6 wires.

I was hoping to find fault there because on the connector side going into dash unit & main harness would be major surgery. 

As luck would have it a continuity test on the 2 wires for the kill switch which I suspected as the fault, found one pulling slightly either side of the join a bad connection. 

All can say that I'm glad it's not a Goldwing with internal harness faults.  ????

Congratulations! Such little problems can cause a huge headache, innit?

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1 hour ago, taninthai said:

I went to get my bike inspected today...to get yearly tax sticker......bike failed the inspection because I didn’t have the original big plastic mudguard on the back????????????????????.

guess I will try a different place next week.

7BAC617F-E87C-4110-A806-2AAF1484B168.jpeg

I'm surprised they even knew that about the bike, sounds like a place that wants back handers.

I took mine to the local DLT for inspections chassis number check, engine number check, one pix job done. 

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19 hours ago, taninthai said:

I didn’t have the original big plastic mudguard on the back

Where do you attach the number plate ?    and what about the poor sods behind you in the rain having to deal with a huge "rooster tail"  flinging dirty water in their faces ????

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1 hour ago, johng said:

Where do you attach the number plate ?    and what about the poor sods behind you in the rain having to deal with a huge "rooster tail"  flinging dirty water in their faces ????

Attach number plate to a number plate bracket with the light built in,,,the guy got picture up from internet and said this bit missing????????????

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37 minutes ago, taninthai said:

Attach number plate to a number plate bracket with the light built in,,,the guy got picture up from internet and said this bit missing????????????

Take it somewhere as you say, it will be best.

Took mine in truck number as back mudguard no problem.

 

image.png.6beb05c4eea4fa3a4c6334ba4c2295c9.png

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13 minutes ago, Familyonthemove said:

Seems to be taking an age to charge.  At 14.3V now.  

My battery I bought was already charged at just over 13 volts, been draining it a couple of time at getting the bike to start.

My battery charger is OK and also a slow charger too and not able to fully charge the battery but enough to get the bike to start then the new reg/rec fitted now, charges it to full.

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3 hours ago, Kwasaki said:

My battery I bought was already charged at just over 13 volts, been draining it a couple of time at getting the bike to start.

My battery charger is OK and also a slow charger too and not able to fully charge the battery but enough to get the bike to start then the new reg/rec fitted now, charges it to full.

The battery came with the acid in little bottles (mail order) so it was flat.  Took about 8 hours to fully charge.  I used to use a car charger - could charge it in an hour, but I think that's what did for the last battery.  My new charger has a 'bike' setting (and also a 6V option, which will be handy for my little classic Honda).

 

I only use the CRF at odd weekends, so the battery often went flat.

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Update on Blade got tax holder. ????

 75614003_425661184739257_7437992451605790720_n.jpg.1f126f6d76983e516b7bdd5fae8c5079.jpg

 

clutch bearings from Japan, found clutch OK not many kilos left on friction disks but all even.

75580424_685864971937278_2954455806180851712_n.jpg.630a1abc75d5e0d69fb48659c5745dd5.jpg 

Got rims with new tyres tyres back on in 3 days / 3 hours a day cleaning re-greasing etc, what a state.

75241127_10157835626360990_2331355583103369216_o.jpg.8d87f1e2cdc1eb91a7eed370b61ee25d.jpg 75588225_548738645948557_7844641445544722432_n.jpg.18cc92257a9b6088ad2e7f3bc621cb3e.jpg 

Before and after 76747370_3262710283770384_1894064720516743168_n.jpg.fb14327d934608075d60c60e3c851d4b.jpg 

Made a new gasket for clutch cover from Honda US gasket cost $16 +$30 postage fling that.

  76615071_495235797738371_253935573394259968_n.jpg.492a5a42c422c0a222fd38de202dd30e.jpg  

 

 

 

Edited by Kwasaki
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25 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

 Made a new gasket for clutch cover from Honda US gasket cost $16 +$30 postage fling that.

  76615071_495235797738371_253935573394259968_n.jpg.492a5a42c422c0a222fd38de202dd30e.jpg 

Ouch - postage double the gasket

Had good luck with using gasket paper and a small ball peen hammer.Place paper on cover, gently tap the edge. The cover will cut the paper in the exact shape. Do the same for the inside. The 'ball' part of the hammer placed over the holes and tapped with another hammer marks the placement. Hole punch does the rest

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