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Which Air conditioner to buy?

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18 hours ago, moontang said:

As stated, swamp requires Windows to be open.. https://www.epmechtech.com/swamp-coolers-require-open-windows/

The opposite of air-conditioning... And his link was for portables. 

 

1

Or you could google "pre-cooling make-up air with evaporative cooling" 

 

I thought I was clear that I was talking about commercial and industrial units, not portable units. 

 

Incidentally, for commercial and industrial applications a vent with a backdraft damper is generally more effective than an open window.

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35 minutes ago, jdvis0909 said:

which air conditioner will be best for use?

LG or Daikin. 

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you gotta have them cleaned..twice per year in bkk.  Even if you clean the filter monthly.  My feb bill dropped from 1970 in 2019 to 1270 in 2020 with the new carrier inverter.  Hated to part with the reliable fujitsu..but uses half the energy and does a better job.  I dont even turn it off when i leave for the day like i always did.

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Having Electrolux here in my workspace.

In 'cool/dry' mode it get reasonably cold (26-28 degrees) and uses only 2.4-3 amp. 13K btu, Inverter.

Was placed in the room where LG non-inverter was running fine until one day the outdoor unit went with a big bang spilling oil over the wall from the compressor.

 

Other aircon is SajoDenki, uses around 4 amp and is non inverter. Came with the house when we moved in and still going well.

Fixed the remote control which has had a big black spot from corroded LCD screen mirror, and now fine again.

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Will be fitting a small A/C unit in small bedroom, would this cable be good enough?

thumbnail_IMG_0707.jpg

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yes, but why not run a 1x1.5,2x2.5 and ground the thing?

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1 hour ago, hackjam said:

Will be fitting a small A/C unit in small bedroom, would this cable be good enough?

thumbnail_IMG_0707.jpg

As was said yes but only if you have a separate earth rod for the shower or an earth cable back to your house earth (if you have one)

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On 3/18/2020 at 2:00 PM, moontang said:

yes, but why not run a 1x1.5,2x2.5 and ground the thing?

The ground wire should for obvious reason be of at least the same size as the live wire..

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Posted (edited)
36 minutes ago, lom said:

The ground wire should for obvious reason be of at least the same size as the live wire..

You are clearly not an electrician nor do you understand electrical wiring.

 

You are wrong about the sizing of earth wiring. 1mm Earth and 2.5mm line and neutral is standard. 

 

The protective conductor is almost always smaller than line an neutral, the only time I would use the same size is if I have the cable around.

Edited by sometimewoodworker

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4 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

You are clearly not an electrician nor do you understand electrical wiring.

 

You are wrong about the sizing of earth wiring. 1mm Earth and 2.5mm line and neutral is standard. 

Stick to woodworking.

Why would you want the protective wire to be able to carry less current than the live wire so in case of a short to the chassis of an appliance the protective wire risk burning off before the live wire?

Electrical safety standard regulations states that the safety ground wire should not be smaller than the live wire.

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Posted (edited)
47 minutes ago, lom said:

Stick to woodworking.

Why would you want the protective wire to be able to carry less current than the live wire so in case of a short to the chassis of an appliance the protective wire risk burning off before the live wire?

Electrical safety standard regulations states that the safety ground wire should not be smaller than the live wire.

Please quote the regulations, though of course you can’t because they say nothing of the kind for fixed wiring. Earth size for 1.5mm lightening circuits is 1mm and for 2.5mm power is 1.5mm
 

The protective wire is not designed to carry significant current for a protracted period, just long enough for the MCB / RCCB / Fuse to blow and do their job, so the permitted current ratings are significantly higher than for normal line and neutral conductors. FWIW if you ever actually Manage to melt a wire you have a seriously messed up and badly protected system.
 

This has nothing to do with cables connecting appliances to the fixed house wiring. It is all about a fixed supply.

 

As an electrician you might make a passable refuse collection operative.

Edited by sometimewoodworker
  • Haha 1

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1 hour ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Please quote the regulations, though of course you can’t because they say nothing of the kind for fixed wiring.

Of course I can,

IEC 60364-5-54 where fig. 59 shows required c.s.a (cross section area) of the PE wire. -for phase conductor c.s.a < 16mm2 , PE conductor c.s.a = phase conductor c.s.a

-for phase conductor c.s.a between 16mm2 - 35mm2, PE conductor c.s.a = 16mm2

 

Furthermore, there does not to my knowledge exist a multi conductor cable where the green-yellow protective ground wire is smaller than the phase or neutral wires.

1 hour ago, sometimewoodworker said:

The protective wire is not designed to carry significant current for a protracted period, just long enough for the MCB / RCCB / Fuse to blow and do their job, so the permitted current ratings are significantly higher than for normal line and neutral conductors.

For protection against electrical shock you are not allowed to assume that there is a MCB or a correctly sized fuse that will trip.

You must assume that the protective earth wire is the only protection against electrical shock hence can withstand the same current as the phase conductor.

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Posted (edited)

Forget about the cable you two ... important question ... is the damn thing N95 ?

Edited by pdtokyo
you haven't mentioned CV19 ONCE yet

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