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Pump turns on every 17 minutes and runs 6 seconds all the time.


Mango Bob

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1 minute ago, Toscano said:

You have a leak somewhere in your water system , I have had the same problem with a leaking toilet cistern .

You need to trace the leak and stop it , because the continuous on/off of your pump will eventually damage it .

The spare part is not easy to find and maybe expensive , or you might have to buy a new pump .

Mitsubishi has an office on Tonglor. A replacement pressure tank/bladder costs approximately Baht 2,500.

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I had the same problem.

check none of the taps are leaking all over the house and any outside taps. Check the toilet water tank is turning off and check after You flush the toilet that there is no water dribbling into the toilet. Check all the pipes no leaks and the connections are good. 

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2 hours ago, spermwhale said:

The first response is the correct answer. You don't need to read anymore past this post, so don't read what I wrote ... Seriously, call a plumber or handyman to find the leak and repair it. If it's in a pipe behind the walls it could be causing serious damage. 

 

 

See post #25

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1 hour ago, Toscano said:

You have a leak somewhere in your water system , I have had the same problem with a leaking toilet cistern .

You need to trace the leak and stop it , because the continuous on/off of your pump will eventually damage it .

The spare part is not easy to find and maybe expensive , or you might have to buy a new pump .

See post #25

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46 minutes ago, shaurene said:

I had the same problem.

check none of the taps are leaking all over the house and any outside taps. Check the toilet water tank is turning off and check after You flush the toilet that there is no water dribbling into the toilet. Check all the pipes no leaks and the connections are good. 

Post #25 ad nauseam.......

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Hi all. Hope i can post this here, as it is about my water pump also.

I have no problems regarding leaks.

My issue is thus, After about 15 minutes of continuing use, ie using a hose pipe on the garden full flow. The pump will suddenly stop. I have never had this problem before. where before i could water everything for 1 / 2 hours. I don't have a issue of no water. 

When the pump suddenly stops. I have to close off the hose pipe, wait about 5/10 mins. And then the pumps will start pumping again, when i turn on a tap.

Why would the pump suddenly stop?

Thanks for your responses

Slappy

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Try this. Switch off the  pump and open a tap somewhere to drop any pressure then shut/close the  out supply pipe tap (assuming one is fitted)to prevent bak drainage from the plumbing system. Then open one of the spare caps on the bottom of the pressure tank and drain it completely.

Once empty replace the  cap and start the pump with the out supply pipe still closed and wait until the pressure switch shuts off the pump (will be several minutes). Then  open the  supply  line and then wait  as long as patience allows to see if there is a repeat of your problem. If the  pump starts and stops before  you open the supply line it indicates  a leak in the pump unit. Not water initially.Air from the tank and later water. The tank  must have  an air cap to provide pressure because  water is non compressible. If the air in the tank is lost or minimal the differential between  on and off is shortened in  time. If this  makes no difference then yes, look further  away for  water leaks.

I  do not know if  Mitsubishi pumps  share the problem but Lucky Star pumps  develop  stress fractures in the top of the tank around the area where the actual pump unit mounts are welded to the tank. 

I have repaired  several for people by welding a small plate over the stress  fracture. Have had more success doing that than by trying  to weld the actual fracture because pinholes in the weld continue the problem. Also way cheaper than buying a  new pump or even just the tank.

Not saying the above  will be your answer  but worth the try first rather than chasing down non leaks further away.

I routinely  drain  my pump tank every  6 months  to ensure the  air cap is sufficient because  the air does  slowly  get dissolved into the water because of the system pressure. It  does  make a difference in pumping time.

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18 minutes ago, slappy said:

Hi all. Hope i can post this here, as it is about my water pump also.

I have no problems regarding leaks.

My issue is thus, After about 15 minutes of continuing use, ie using a hose pipe on the garden full flow. The pump will suddenly stop. I have never had this problem before. where before i could water everything for 1 / 2 hours. I don't have a issue of no water. 

When the pump suddenly stops. I have to close off the hose pipe, wait about 5/10 mins. And then the pumps will start pumping again, when i turn on a tap.

Why would the pump suddenly stop?

Thanks for your responses

Slappy

Check if the  electric motor  has a thermal  cutout. It may be that there is a problem with the  electric  motor curcuit windings or bearings. When it cools down a bit the thermal switch  will let it run again  until  next time.

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8 hours ago, slappy said:

When the pump suddenly stops. I have to close off the hose pipe, wait about 5/10 mins. And then the pumps will start pumping again, when i turn on a tap.

Why would the pump suddenly stop?

Sounds like the pump is overheating and the thermal cutout is doing its job. Check around the pump motor for debris blocking the airflow to the fan.

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I haven't read all responses. Apoloigies if someone already responded with same reply. I would suggest checking for a one way valve that prevents water from leaking back towards the source (holding tank or well). I've had to replace a couple over the years due to build up from contaminants in the water source.

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I haven't read all responses. Apoloigies if someone already responded with same reply. I would suggest checking for a one way valve that prevents water from leaking back towards the source (holding tank or well). I've had to replace a couple over the years due to build up from contaminants in the water source.

See post #25 , the op has isolated it down to a leaking toilet, which could be the ballcock needs adjusting to stop water going down the overflow or the flapper is not sealing.

What was the outcome OP ??
There’s a lot of concerned TVF members waiting [emoji51]
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10 hours ago, orchidfan said:

Had same here. Broken pipe under a toilet floor. Digging then replace/repair broken pipe.

B7000 total cost fir parts and labour.  tool 3 days.

All good now.

What a pain that is cos it happened to me 3 times . In the end I got the plumber to scrap the existing pipe work and install all new pipes above ground so all is visible .  Problems solved and the bonus is that I have free hot water showers as my bathroom piping catches the sun in the afternoon  

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On 1/28/2019 at 7:25 PM, phetphet said:

Do you have a pressurisation vessel in your system? Like a compressed air bottle with a Schrader type valve, (like a car tyre valve) on the top usually. If so, there could be a small leak in the bladder inside. Or a slight loss of pressure. 

Good thought, but after the tank bladder is fully deflated it can no longer cause a drop in tank pressure. 

 

Now, if the tank bladder is punctured, AND the Schroeder pressure valve also leaks, then the system will lose water that way. However, it would be obvious since water would pool around the tank. 

 

The tank bladder is there to provide a bit of pressure hysteresis so that the pump doesn't start and stop with every slight change in system  pressure. 

 

So taking a small glass of water doesn't turn the pump on immediately and conversely, the pump runs a few seconds longer after the system water stops. 

 

It is a certainty that the OP has a slow leak somewhere in the system, hopefully not underground though. A faulty pressure switch would not react this way. 

 

If the OP is handy, and a curious type, he can do a simple experiment to prove it is a leak. 

 

Turn the pressure switch adjustment to lower the system pressure. Then time the pump on/off interval again and he will see that it is now more than 17 minutes. Lower pressure = slower leak. 

 

Doesn't solve his problem of course but a great way to waste some time on a lazy afternoon! 

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On 1/30/2019 at 8:25 AM, jonnit said:

I haven't read all responses. Apoloigies if someone already responded with same reply. I would suggest checking for a one way valve that prevents water from leaking back towards the source (holding tank or well). I've had to replace a couple over the years due to build up from contaminants in the water source.

Yes! Excellent thought. 

 

I had the same thought just after I posted later in this thread saying it was a downstream leak. Your thought would also explain the symptoms.

In this case the leak would be slow because it is leaking from the pressurized pump reservoir backwards into the large supply tank against its inherent water column pressure head. 

 

As in my later post, a simple experiment could show this. Drain the large tank until it only has a foot or so of head. Disable the ball cock valve from the city water supply that feeds the tank. Now the pump pressure hasn't decreased but the supply side pressure has. 

 

If the pump on/off interval decreases to less than 17 minutes you have your culprit. 

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