Does anybody know an Electric Gate Resaler and Fitter in Khon Kaen City area?

[gdhm]

We have quite a heavy gate I estimated (as best I can up to 750Kgs) Originally we had a Focus Model 548 purchased and installed by Sahachai Aluminium Aloy, Khon Kaen.

The motor and Gate worked for 7 years before becoming faulty and the printed circuit board burning out. We were advised to buy a new motor rather than spend around ฿3,000 on a new circuit board and installing it in an 7 year old motor (which we were told would only probably last up to another 3 years).

 

I accepted the advice and they fitted a New Focus 428 (Sep 2015) which they told us was suitable and that the Focus 548 we had before was not available.

It worked until Aug 2018 and since then has been a nightmare. First we were told the motor was not really powerful enough, so we should set it to fast mode. as fast mode can deal with 1000 Kg. That worked for a few weeks but the much heavier bashing when it closed caused it to jam (my guess is that teeth on gate and cogs misaligned and jammed on occasions due the the heavier bashing when closing). They replaced the circuit board (an A808) for free with an old one they felt may work better A707) I have no idea what the difference is, but only seconds ago over my wife's mobile the fitter reconfirmed they are 100% compatible and do the same. My "pea brain" reasons why different model numbers then? SILLY ME I should accept what I am told I suppose)

 

Now the fitter has set the motor back to slow mode (max 800kg) and it worked for a day.  Now once or twice a week it jams (ALWAYS when it closes (we do not know until next day when it will not open).

Now we re being told issue is motor is not powerful enough as it is 3 years old. I am TOTALLY unconvinced, because when it jams every time I turn the hexagonal key to separate the rack and pinion (gate teeth and toothed cog) and reset it, the Gate works again easily without issue (until it next jams). If it really was a gate weight issue it should not be able to work OK IMHO, after I have unjammed it each time. There is something clearly wrong. For a start when gate is closed and I try to lock it, it beeps 4 times (an indication gate is not closed (BUT IT IS). It should beep once on locking twice when unlocking.  NOW the gate sometimes when we go to open it will not open (coz its jammed again, BUT its motor keeps cycling on and off as if it trying to open but cannot. Fitter from company says I need to understand that my gate is too heavy, BUT AGAIN I tell him IF GATE TOO HEAVY then why when I unjam the gate by separating the Rack and Pinion with the key and I resetting  doe it then work OK for a while.

 

I am convinced I am being told the wrong reason because they cannot fix the issue or do not understand what the exact issue is.

I have been told many people they installed this Focus model are having issues (interesting and not quite adding up to the reason being MY gate is suddenly too heavy - are everybody else' gates too heavy too? Hmmm..). It has been suggested I buy their new different brand a Somfy Elixo 800 (rated 800kg). Once again interesting, as that is only rated the same 800 kg as the Focus 428). I was told it is much better and reliable and nobody who they have sold and fitted this Italian motor (its French) are having any issues. Of course I would not expect them to YET, as my Focus 428 worked OK for 3½ years.

 

I am now less comfortable to accept advice being given (fitter has just promised my wife in a mobile text AND conversation motor is not strong enough). I checked out the Somfy. I find it worrying that the French mother country and all its European country branches and many of its agents branches around the World do not advertise this Model (or any gate motors in some cases).  Thailand does , and 2 others in SE Asia do. I am VERY concerned it is an obsolete model.  if its so good why is it not being offered on its Home country or many branches around the World.

 

Fitter has just promised (as I type this post) the Somfy they sell and fit will work OK he guarantees it (even though I pointed out via my wife, the motor is only rated 800 Kg exactly the same as my Focus 428 in Slow mode, and I can find no mention in Somfy Web literature of it offering or coping with a fast mode up to 1000 Kg (which our Focus 428 is able to do). I did ask why the fast 1000 Kg mode cannot cope with weight of gate -did not get a real answer I think fitter is reasoning Gate too heavy in Slow mode and bashes too much in Fast mode (convenient answers IMO)

 

My trust in what I am being told is close to zero. I have no idea the reason for the jamming, but I am personally convinced that jamming on random occasions is what is happening and the so far not dealt with/found reason for this IS THE GENUINE CAUSE OF THE ISSUE).  Consequently does anybody know or can recommend another suppler and fitter that services Khon Kaen city. I do not want to deal with a company like PAT because they seem to have no Branches up here and I need a supplier and fitter who can come out quickly if there are issues (no good paying for fitters to come up from Bangkok) 

 

Many thanks all for reading and for any advice or info you may be able to offer.

[VocalNeal]

Does the gate bang against the stop when closing or does it stop with , say, 3mm gap.

[gdhm]

1 hour ago, VocalNeal said:

Does the gate bang against the stop when closing or does it stop with , say, 3mm gap.

Hi VocalNeal thanks for your interest

 

In fast mode it bashes against the upright, which Is why I tried felt pads to soften the blow. I felt and wondered when in fast mode whether the bash caused the gate teeth to come out of the pinions socket and the pinions teeth jammed with the gates teeth.

 

In slow mode the gate slows a lot for final ½ metre and either softly touches the upright or leaves a tiny gap.  Today, however, after unjamming the gate it whilst testing opening and closing several times form different opening distances (slow mode) on one occasion when only opened a metre (approx.) when it closed the slow closing did not kick in and it bashed into the upright (as it does when in fast mode). Interestingly, that did cause it to jam again. However, there is no consistency, because during my testing it also jammed on one occasion when closing very slowly.  I have no idea why it can work sometimes 10- 20 times OK maybe for several days and then not.

 

I started to wonder if Mains Voltage changes or, ambient temperatures causing the various parts to expand or contract could be involved.

As far as voltage is concerned I know when I did my tests this morning after it jammed Mains Voltage was 226V (I have an APC UPS and it has an app called Powershoot which shows current voltage. As I type its 220V and gate is working OK at this moment.  I do know voltages during early evening when people get home from work and Aircons go on can drop Mains voltages on occasions to 206V in worst case scenarios (however gate still opens and closes without issue - unless it jams). Additionally, when the motor was working during its first 3½ years it dealt with all Voltage variations without issue. My calculated estimate of Gate weight of 750 kg approx. was conservative I believe).

 

Fitter is also suggesting wheels are past their best or that gate wheel track wear may be part of issue.  Seems to me he is speculating anything he can think of (or trying to fob me off) rather than really knowing the probable issue. He is planning to find an English speaker at his firm to explain to me. I understand already all he saying (form what my wife tells me) but with his current reasoning I'm not buying the logic at all. 

I feel this issue is going to end only one way, the way I too often get in Thailand with aftersales outside guarantee period) minimal or no interest after a few attempts to resolve. - He seems to be trying to steer my wife down the buy the new Somfy to resolve (but not convincing me to trust that will be much better other than maybe for a year or so and then I'll be back in the same boat).

 

[Fruit Trader]

Most important mechanical check for sliding gates is the rack and pinion backlash clearance which must be within tolerance over the full travel. If the gate suddenly meets a tight spot the gear will jam in the rack if clearance is too close. This often happens at closed point where gate overshoots a limit and hits a mechanical stop. Poorly aligned rack joints are a common cause of tight spots.

 

A gate can be stopped at various points along the travel to check if some backlash exists between rack and pinion. This should be done with the gate manually unlocked.

 

Next comes the gate wheels and support roller (if fitted). These should run free and smooth over full travel.

Some gates use limits and a pulse encoder to memorise points at which motor should change speed. Gates that overshoot slow speed points are often suffering from severe tight spots or the position encoder is miscounting.

 

[gdhm]

8 hours ago, Fruit Trader said:

Most important mechanical check for sliding gates is the rack and pinion backlash clearance which must be within tolerance over the full travel. If the gate suddenly meets a tight spot the gear will jam in the rack if clearance is too close. This often happens at closed point where gate overshoots a limit and hits a mechanical stop. Poorly aligned rack joints are a common cause of tight spots.

 

A gate can be stopped at various points along the travel to check if some backlash exists between rack and pinion. This should be done with the gate manually unlocked.

 

Next comes the gate wheels and support roller (if fitted). These should run free and smooth over full travel.

Some gates use limits and a pulse encoder to memorise points at which motor should change speed. Gates that overshoot slow speed points are often suffering from severe tight spots or the position encoder is miscounting.

 

Thanks for all this info Fruit Trader and the effort you have spent going into it.  I have noticed the fitter always adjusts the rack each time he has attempted to solve issue.

 

Checking clearance between rack and pinion in all honesty I do not see how it can be done I say this because I cannot see a way to get a decent view. because there is a 2½ meter solid concrete wall blocking any view of the pinion whilst the gate moves.

 

In the past we have had poorly aligned rack joints which gave an audible clunk sound as joint(s) travelled over pinion BUT now they are aligned much better and the clunks non existent or tiny.

 

I have just gone out and taken flash photos of areas you ask about. Maybe you can see something relevant. Gate is in fully open position and all photos taken at same time so any photos that seem to show more pinion teeth either side of gate rack is entirely due to camera position when taking shot.

 

 

 

 

 

=======================

 

[Fruit Trader]

I understand the difficulty viewing the backlash gap as drive motors are often close to a wall or column.

 

The alternative is to grab or poke the pinion wheel while at the same time moving the rack to feel for that essential backlash along full travel. 

 

There is a close spot in the center of our gate where you can only feel a little bit of backlash in the pinion wheel. It exists because the gate has sagged slightly over time.

 

Also be sure wheels are not touching the cement finish. This sometimes starts when a flat wears on top of the track.

[Crossy]

An observation only, but shouldn't there be some form of lubrication on the rack? It all looks very dry.

 

Does the motor / controller use limit switches or a position encoder?

 

With the motor clutch disengaged (manual opening mode) how easily does the gate slide, any tight spots, wheels all going round?

 

[Fruit Trader]

29 minutes ago, Crossy said:

An observation only, but shouldn't there be some form of lubrication on the rack? It all looks very dry.

 

Does the motor / controller use limit switches or a position encoder?

 

With the motor clutch disengaged (manual opening mode) how easily does the gate slide, any tight spots, wheels all going round?

 

I picked up most of my info from DEA Gate Automation training videos when going through the drama of making our busy yard gate more reliable.

 

Some manufacturers say apply light lube others say never because it attracts dirt and grit along the exposed rack. I mentioned encoder miscount in earlier post but no feedback as yet.

 

During installation lots of attention should be paid to the accuracy and stability of gate running tracks. Unfortunately many Thai constructors don't recognise the importance. Tracks that are not straight on the horizontal will require increased rack and pinion gap to avoid tight spots. Going past the manufacturers recommended tolerance can introduce other problems.

 

PS

Motors with position encoders should also have limit switches for fail safe and as a method to reference home when resetting the count.

[Crossy]

24 minutes ago, Fruit Trader said:

Motors with position encoders should also have limit switches for fail safe and as a method to reference home when resetting the count.

 

Our DEA "LOOK" actuators (swing gates) have encoders but no limit switches. The controller (DEA Net230N) uses the motor current to sense the end stops. I've not really looked into how it works with limits and encoders as we don't have both.

 

EDIT And thanks for reminding me to go and lube the hinges, done now ????

 

[Fruit Trader]

13 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

Our DEA "LOOK" actuators (swing gates) have encoders but no limit switches. The controller (DEA Net230N) uses the motor current to sense the end stops. I've not really looked into how it works with limits and encoders as we don't have both.

 

EDIT And thanks for reminding me to go and lube the hinges, done now ????

 

Enclosed swing gate actuators are load stable over the operating range which would make current sensing much easier than on a sliding gate. Most sliding gates have current sensing at some level along with some logic to shutdown or attempt to free up the screaming dog. 

 

I am guessing that your DEA control board has option to install limit switches and use them for final stop if preferred.

 

[Crossy]

5 minutes ago, Fruit Trader said:

I am guessing that your DEA control board has option to install limit switches and use them for final stop if preferred.

 

It certainly seems to, lurking down in "advanced programming".

 

Anyway, we've gone off-topic. Let's return to our OP's issues.

[gdhm]

Hi guys thanks for input. Sorry for not responding sooner.

We had another supplier/installer to have a look (he was the original fitter of our 1st motor who left company 9 years ago and started his own company. He sells and fits Rogers Motors and IF we decide to buy a new motor he suggested the ฿28,500 all in Rogers that can cope with 1200 Kg.  (that would cater for drops in voltage IMO). My main concern was that the Warranty is only 1 year. 

With regard to the Motor we currently have he recommended trying to continue using it as he felt it should have decent life still in it. but said we should make sure that when we open gate to ensure it opens at least half way ideally fully (even though often we are using Motorbikes most of the time only). He suggested if we only open a metre (approx.) that may not be sufficient for the Gate motor when closing to recognize end is close and to slow gate thus causing it to bash into upright.  You may recall from my OP that I mentioned that I noticed it did not slow on one occasion during my test when I had only opened it a little.  We will try opening to a minimum of ½ way and see it that resolves (not optimistic but worth checking out). Of course although it would take longer if we open fully then gate would stop slowly on both Closing AND opening. I agree this would be best to completely avoid any bashing when stopping (as it does slightly if stopped midway as it is stopped abruptly and not moving as slowly as it does at end on run.)

 

Your questions:

1) Sorry I do not understand limiters and position encoders etc. I have no idea how the motor knows when gate is approaching fully open or closed to start slowing it down.  As the gate slows for the last ½- 1 metre suggests to me the circuit board must know when nearing end of gate closure.

All I know is that the is a metal item each end of gate rack and I assumed (rightly or wrongly that it is supposed to trigger an off switch when in reaches the pinion so we can "lock the gate". Clearly that is positioned incorrectly if that's its function because I cannot lock the gate when closed currently. Although the motor knows gate is closed and switches off, it does not think gate is actually fully closed as it beeps 4 times when I use my remote to lock it (should be 1 beep) 4 beeps means open).

 

2) I am not sure if wheels come in contact with cement either side of track. I have JUST had a look and I think they do not and are about 2 mm above concrete, I cannot see any sign of scraping, nor is there any unusual sound as gate moves along track.  We are plagued with leaves and currently fine tree spores that are coming off the trees.   that important. We had high quality wheels fitted originally and they are now over 10 years old. Usage a day average equivalent of 5-6 opening/closing a day.  The guy who had a look today suggested they are worn and we should consider new ones. because if worn the gate will drop slightly and rest harder or tighter on the pinion.

 

I suspect regretfully, this is heading towards me having to bite the bullet and buy a new motor but I will not from original supplier and fitter, Or manually opening and closing the gate and use padlock.

 

[Fruit Trader]

Be sure to check all mechanical areas before buying a new motor. Its certainly possible the existing motor is struggling with the weight and does not have enough steam left to jump over any minor problems.

 

Maybe a new set of running wheels and check to see if your track is flat along its length.

[Crossy]

6 minutes ago, Fruit Trader said:

Be sure to check all mechanical areas before buying a new motor. Its certainly possible the existing motor is struggling with the weight and does not have enough steam left to jump over any minor problems.

 

Maybe a new set of running wheels and check to see if your track is flat along its length.

 

Yup, and do try the gate in manual mode, you may find a tight spot.

[gdhm]

11 hours ago, Crossy said:

 

Yup, and do try the gate in manual mode, you may find a tight spot.

Yup I have tried that and there is no obvious tight spot.

Problem is definitely on final stage of closing as gate throughout these jamming issue over last 6 weeks plus has never jammed except after fully closing (which we only find out next time we try to open).

With this apparently tiny part of the rack and pinion to check cannot understand why fitter is unable to properly identify and resolve.

C'est la vie

[gdhm]

11 hours ago, Fruit Trader said:

Be sure to check all mechanical areas before buying a new motor. Its certainly possible the existing motor is struggling with the weight and does not have enough steam left to jump over any minor problems.

 

Maybe a new set of running wheels and check to see if your track is flat along its length.

 

I agree about new wheels as probably necessary anyway after 10 years use and weathering. I do not actually believe this is a weight of gate issue because when it jammed during my test it worked a few minutes later after I had unjammed it. I feel if weight was the real issue it would struggle much more often (just my instinct).

 

 

 

[mike8888]

 i believe the gate opener has what is referred to as a soft start soft stop it is a common feature on many gate openers you might contact the manufacturer to see if there is a minimum opening requirement for it to function it is part of the logic board of the operator you could try and lubricate the rollers at the bottom of the gate but i think after 50,000 cycles of more it would be prudent to change  there are many types of rollers for the gate from sealed bearings to ones that require periodic lubrication hope it helps cheers 

[VocalNeal]

On 2/17/2019 at 12:36 AM, gdhm said:

I do not actually believe this is a weight of gate issue because when it jammed during my test it worked a few minutes later after I had unjammed it.

 

Why and how does the gate jam? Even a new actuator will not solve the cause of the jam.

[gdhm]

On 2/18/2019 at 9:03 AM, VocalNeal said:

 

Why and how does the gate jam? Even a new actuator will not solve the cause of the jam.

Well if I knew that, my wife and I would not be living this nightmare ????.   All I know is it ONLY jams in closed position. It always work immediately I turn the hexagonal key to disengage the pinion from the rack and re-engage it (which is why I consider it is jamming).

 

I think rack and pinion gap is not correct at end of run but try convincing the fitter who is increasingly not interested as he does not seem able to solve and seems only interested in pushing the narrative that the motor is underpowered (as it gets older) - which I do not believe is the issue.  Has worked OK for 2½ days since last jam -hardly supporting the underpowered theory IMO.

 

We are trying to get fitter to come back (although he is not readily responding) because after we called him out he left the gate working (well for 4 hours) but he did not notice the light now does not come on at all, AND the gate cannot be locked because I assume he forgot to check the sensor to make sure the motor knows its fully shut when it.  Even if he will not sort out issue I certainly expect the light and lock issue to be sorted out because they worked before his efforts to fix.

 

 

[kannot]

One of the reasons I did my  own gate from footings  to installing the motor and rail.

The  motor  will need to be set for its  opening  stop position and closing stop position, the bump stop is  really to stop it over running its  not there to actually have the gate  run up to and stop it. As mentioned should be gap 3mm between top of teeth, run it without motor and see how free it travels, it looks a bit  grubby to me, Id  say its out of adjustment and they do tend to "move" a bit over time ie  alter the open close positions on mine.............it  should NOT be banging closed.

[gdhm]

On 2/19/2019 at 11:52 AM, kannot said:

One of the reasons I did my  own gate from footings  to installing the motor and rail.

The  motor  will need to be set for its  opening  stop position and closing stop position, the bump stop is  really to stop it over running its  not there to actually have the gate  run up to and stop it. As mentioned should be gap 3mm between top of teeth, run it without motor and see how free it travels, it looks a bit  grubby to me, Id  say its out of adjustment and they do tend to "move" a bit over time ie  alter the open close positions on mine.............it  should NOT be banging closed.

Thanks for your input and photos Kannot. 

I'm impressed with the quality of your work. Being an office clerk all my life DIY, house building and maintenance have never been my forte. Looks like you have a clearer view of your rack and pinion gaps due to your outer walls not being in line with the gate (lucky you for this aspect.)

 

I agree motor is a bit grubby. (wife's very recent painting of wall is a small part of reason????.  I'm not criticizing her at all. She has just done a wonderful job painting the inner side of our boundary 2½ metre walls all around our house. My wife is one of those ladies that cannot sit still and relax, and if she can save us money then she is almost unstoppable - bless her ????). 

 

The main reason things look grubby is that we have these two African tree  near front wall and over hanging gate and motor (we were told 10 years ago max height would be 8 meters are now above 2 floor house and increasing. My wife wants to top them but I have read that can damage and weaken trees and it is best to let them grow naturally as safer and less likely to have branches snap off. (If I have looked up the correct tree we could be heading for 30 metres over time).  When we get to the end of the dry season they drop thousands what looks like catkins full of pollen type spores makes a real mess (especially 2 days ago when we got our first rain in 5 weeks. They also moult leaves each dry season. After it had rained  (my flash photos taken an house later at night) these catkins were everywhere and did affect the gate travel and at first caused the gate to slow and turned off a about a third of a metre from correct fully closed position. Once track was cleared at little (difficult in dark and wet) the gate closed fully.  Leaves and these catkins have always affected gate travel if not removed from tracks quickly.

 

The one thing all posters here are leaning to is issue with gap between Gate rack and pinion teeth. That5 is also my belief.  Shame the company fitter although adjusting on several occasions is now going down the narrative weak motor. As I have stated I feel this is a fallback stance as he has been unable to resolve.

 

You comment on the bump stop has taught me something.   The second opinion fitter we asked to take a look (he did not touch anything) suggestion to always open gate at least half way to ensure when closing it has enough distance to start slowing gate in final ½ metre DOES SEEM TO HAVE IMPROVED things as we have had no jams in last 5 days since his advice (except 1 time when we pressed wrong remote control button in error and only opened it 1 mter and when closed it without slowing and banged shut and jammed) .  We have for years (2 motors) only opened the gate enough for what need to enter exit (usually motorbikes/scooters) without issue but although I do not understand what has changed (maybe gap between pinion and rack has shifted slightly due to movement, or wheel wear). I must admit with the huge heat differentials in Thailand and with metals expanding and contracting with heat I am astoni8shed it is possible to maintain a 3mm gap when  night dry season temps may be 18C and day hot 40C +

 

Kind regards

 

 

[gdhm]

On 2/17/2019 at 10:52 PM, mike8888 said:

 i believe the gate opener has what is referred to as a soft start soft stop it is a common feature on many gate openers you might contact the manufacturer to see if there is a minimum opening requirement for it to function it is part of the logic board of the operator you could try and lubricate the rollers at the bottom of the gate but i think after 50,000 cycles of more it would be prudent to change  there are many types of rollers for the gate from sealed bearings to ones that require periodic lubrication hope it helps cheers 

Thanks for advice Mike, sorry for being really slow to respond.

 

I very much doubt our rollers have done 50,000 cycles but I think new ones should be my next move because after many years they are likely to be past their best.  I'm not sure how long the track should last either but I would suspect its nearing the end to its useful life. If wheels are wearing I am sure the track must be as well.  I'm not sure what type we have currently, except that we were told buy the company that fitted the gate and both motors that they sold 2 versions and we paid for the more expensive ones because we were told they would last much longer. 

 

The fitter who has been to to us these last two occasions suggested new wheels. He told me I could buy new ones at Home hub but I told him I will not do so, as I would not know whether suitable or adequate quality. I did see on Web that these wheels have different types of groove as well. some with a inverted V groove and others more like an inverted U groove. I think we would want the U type as our track is not sharp or narrow.   The other fitter who visited us with a second opinion sells wheels for ฿500 each (we'd need 4 but I have no idea on their quality.). This is my problem when deciding things here in Thailand. Lack or retailers in my area for me to compare components and of course if a company only sells one type of wheel or one brand of motor the advice is going to be for what they stock and fit.  I wish a company like PAT had agents in Khon Kaen as they sell so many brands and models of Gate motors and I would be much more likely to get better/best advice on pros and cons of various motors, wheels etc.

 

What always shocks me are the prices of remote controls. We have not found them to be of great quality or resilience and yet have to pay ฿1,200 to ฿1,500 per 3 button remote when needing a replacement. Seems astonishing prices, bearing in mind one can buy TV remote controls with multiple buttons for  a few hundred Baht in electronic shops. I suppose this is where sellers/fitters make their money. When I look at prices on Lazada the mark up must be gigantic on gate remote controls. 

 

[Crossy]

9 hours ago, gdhm said:

What always shocks me are the prices of remote controls.

Yup, crazy prices from the re-sellers ????

 

Five for $25 US is much more sensible.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-DEA-MIO-TD-2-4-replacement-remote-control-top-quality/32858781111.html

Make sure you find the correct version for your controller.

[gdhm]

4 hours ago, Crossy said:

Yup, crazy prices from the re-sellers ????

 

Five for $25 US is much more sensible.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-DEA-MIO-TD-2-4-replacement-remote-control-top-quality/32858781111.html

Make sure you find the correct version for your controller.

What really Pi##$d me off was was that after buying a new placement remote our original motor's circuit board burnt out a few weeks later. I bit the bullet and got a new one (Focus 548 replaced by Focus 428 as 548 no longer available). We could not use our working original remote controls because they had changed the frequencies being used (which I confirmed was the case).

 

What I need to investigate is if there are any universal frequency programmable remotes or find remotes that are on same frequency. My wife's much used remote is on its last legs and I really do not want to buy a new one when I cannot be sure the motor will not be replaced shortly if it continues to be problematic. 

 

Good news is fitter will visit us today to get the motor to recognize gate is fully closed so we can lock it via remote and stop getting warning beeps the gate is open.  We have also asked him the get the light working as before. Hop he does not need to mess with track and pinion coz it has now worked OK for 6 days

[fredob43]

Right before you start to get a new motor I suspect that it's fine I have the same one.

Tip your motor is ground mounted Problem No: 1. Not saying that is your main problem, but if it had been mounted in it's correct position in the first place it would have helped. It should be on a solid plinth of some sort at a level of around at least 1 foot (Can be more). From ground level.

My one is now mounted on a S/Steel base with a plastic lid to keep the rain off.

 

Having looked at your snaps the whole thing looks tired with lots of crud round the cog sensors. This is being cause because the rain will wash mud leaves rubbish as well as water over it all the time. Mounting it higher (the correct place) will stop that. You will obviously have to fit the rack higher as well.

 

How do I know this well I am now on my third Motor The previous ones had to be replaced because the plonker that fitted same mounted motor at the ground level and they got rain in them during the wet season. these motors are water protected but they wont stand the heavy rain we get here. 

 

Have just changed my comp: so I might not be able to put a snap in but will do my best later.  

 

Comp: seems to be working fine so snaps of motor the S/Steel tubes by the side of motor are sensors that stop the gate and reopen same if anyone get in it's way whilst it's closing. Box at bottom contains some electric bits. Also an outside plug socket very handy it you need to use something power wise whist in the garden. Note the lid to keep heavy rain off.

 

Hope the above helps.

[gdhm]

20 hours ago, fredob43 said:

Right before you start to get a new motor I suspect that it's fine I have the same one.

Tip your motor is ground mounted Problem No: 1. Not saying that is your main problem, but if it had been mounted in it's correct position in the first place it would have helped. It should be on a solid plinth of some sort at a level of around at least 1 foot (Can be more). From ground level.

My one is now mounted on a S/Steel base with a plastic lid to keep the rain off.

 

Having looked at your snaps the whole thing looks tired with lots of crud round the cog sensors. This is being cause because the rain will wash mud leaves rubbish as well as water over it all the time. Mounting it higher (the correct place) will stop that. You will obviously have to fit the rack higher as well.

 

How do I know this well I am now on my third Motor The previous ones had to be replaced because the plonker that fitted same mounted motor at the ground level and they got rain in them during the wet season. these motors are water protected but they wont stand the heavy rain we get here. 

 

Have just changed my comp: so I might not be able to put a snap in but will do my best later.  

 

Comp: seems to be working fine so snaps of motor the S/Steel tubes by the side of motor are sensors that stop the gate and reopen same if anyone get in it's way whilst it's closing. Box at bottom contains some electric bits. Also an outside plug socket very handy it you need to use something power wise whist in the garden. Note the lid to keep heavy rain off.

 

Hope the above helps.

WOW !!! What a brilliant idea fredob43 .

 

I never thought of that, and am surprised companies who make gates and fit gate motors (as mine who made the gate and sold and fitted our two motors) have not come up with this great (and logical) idea to avoid weather and debris issues and easier to access. (in our case it would assist in keeping the army of giant red ants away as well -do I get bitten when needing to unjam motor by turning key so close to ground level. We have to date been very lucky with rain issues especially bearing in mind out garden slopes from back of property to front (houses backing on to our plot sit even higher so all rain water and ground water head towards front wall.  

 

Thanks ever so much for the suggestion and posting the photos. I definitely plan to look into the possibility next time I must get a new motor.  I would not buy the same motor as I am not convinced of its quality (made in China I think. I am not a lover of Chinese made goods rebranded because quality control is unknown). I appreciate European brands probably have many of their motors made in China BUT I suspect they set and oversee quality control practices for their items.

 

If we do go down your route we will have to get an extra cross section welded on to the gate so the Rack can be fitted to it and apart from some extra cost that does not seem a big issue. Biggest issue may be how much mains cable is available at motor's current position.  If going by builder's electrician's past work I suspect very little, if any, slack. We must have two cables going to motor currently 1) power and 2) from the open/close gate switch in our Lounge (avoids need to use remote - but that cannot lock unlock gate).

 

Once again thanks ever so much fredob43 for the idea and photos showing your implementation.

Out of interest. How long have your motors lasted.

[fredob43]

2 hours ago, gdhm said:

WOW !!! What a brilliant idea fredob43 .

 

I never thought of that, and am surprised companies who make gates and fit gate motors (as mine who made the gate and sold and fitted our two motors) have not come up with this great (and logical) idea to avoid weather and debris issues and easier to access. (in our case it would assist in keeping the army of giant red ants away as well -do I get bitten when needing to unjam motor by turning key so close to ground level. We have to date been very lucky with rain issues especially bearing in mind out garden slopes from back of property to front (houses backing on to our plot sit even higher so all rain water and ground water head towards front wall.  

 

Thanks ever so much for the suggestion and posting the photos. I definitely plan to look into the possibility next time I must get a new motor.  I would not buy the same motor as I am not convinced of its quality (made in China I think. I am not a lover of Chinese made goods rebranded because quality control is unknown). I appreciate European brands probably have many of their motors made in China BUT I suspect they set and oversee quality control practices for their items.

 

If we do go down your route we will have to get an extra cross section welded on to the gate so the Rack can be fitted to it and apart from some extra cost that does not seem a big issue. Biggest issue may be how much mains cable is available at motor's current position.  If going by builder's electrician's past work I suspect very little, if any, slack. We must have two cables going to motor currently 1) power and 2) from the open/close gate switch in our Lounge (avoids need to use remote - but that cannot lock unlock gate).

 

Once again thanks ever so much fredob43 for the idea and photos showing your implementation.

Out of interest. How long have your motors lasted.

After my two previous motors and a friends one went Tits up, I thought of asking the motor peeps about why it had to be mounted at ground level. They said that it would be better to mount it up as high as I could to stop flooding and general crap getting into the thing. As you say logical, but as logic doesn't seem to apply here in Thailand, they fit it as they have seen it done by all the other plonker's. Hence problems.

 

As you say you will have to fit a bar to take the rack but that's no big problem, bit of welding and a drop of paint in your case sorted. You will have to mount the motor on some set up bricks would do, and a bit further out to accommodate the gap but only by an inch or two. Don't forget to design a lid of some sort to help with any heavy rain/sun. Every little helps as they say.

 

Re wire not being long enough you could put some sort of electric box like I have done with a breaker switch maybe a handy plug socket and then continue the wires from that to the motor. As you say it's only a couple of power wires anyway. Problem solved. 

 

First two motors lasted quite a few years that's till they flooded and the water buggered the things. Electric at the top was fine it was the sensors and motor that the water buggered. Seems for some reason electric and water don't mix? Latest one is still plodding on has lasted over 3 years without a problem. But I do oil the motor cog, gate running wheels and bit's with WD40 spray ever month or two. N/B (not grease as that will collect any dirt and again put more pressure on Motor)

 

More in the rainy season. Keeps everything free running like new. That way it puts as stated less pressure on the motor.

 

Re motor the make set up we have seems to be about the best? you can get here so please check before you obtain another new motor. I think most will be made in China anyway.

 

Have stuck in snap of inside box, it doesn't have to be wired the same can put breaker at the bottom if the wires don't reach. Just an idea anyway.  

 

Best of luck.   

[gdhm]

23 hours ago, fredob43 said:

After my two previous motors and a friends one went Tits up, I thought of asking the motor peeps about why it had to be mounted at ground level. They said that it would be better to mount it up as high as I could to stop flooding and general crap getting into the thing. As you say logical, but as logic doesn't seem to apply here in Thailand, they fit it as they have seen it done by all the other plonker's. Hence problems.

 

As you say you will have to fit a bar to take the rack but that's no big problem, bit of welding and a drop of paint in your case sorted. You will have to mount the motor on some set up bricks would do, and a bit further out to accommodate the gap but only by an inch or two. Don't forget to design a lid of some sort to help with any heavy rain/sun. Every little helps as they say.

 

Re wire not being long enough you could put some sort of electric box like I have done with a breaker switch maybe a handy plug socket and then continue the wires from that to the motor. As you say it's only a couple of power wires anyway. Problem solved. 

 

First two motors lasted quite a few years that's till they flooded and the water buggered the things. Electric at the top was fine it was the sensors and motor that the water buggered. Seems for some reason electric and water don't mix? Latest one is still plodding on has lasted over 3 years without a problem. But I do oil the motor cog, gate running wheels and bit's with WD40 spray ever month or two. N/B (not grease as that will collect any dirt and again put more pressure on Motor)

 

More in the rainy season. Keeps everything free running like new. That way it puts as stated less pressure on the motor.

 

Re motor the make set up we have seems to be about the best? you can get here so please check before you obtain another new motor. I think most will be made in China anyway.

 

Have stuck in snap of inside box, it doesn't have to be wired the same can put breaker at the bottom if the wires don't reach. Just an idea anyway.  

 

Best of luck.   

 

 

Thanks again fredob43 and especially for the photo of the inside of the box.

 

We have been told to use MOS2 Oil for rack pinion and wheels. No ideas which is better or longer lasting between use.

 

The ONLY alternative supplier and fitter I have found in Khon Kaen sells Roger Gate Motors only (Italian Brand). If anybody has any knowledge or experience with that Brand any information would be very much appreciated.

 

 

[kannot]

On 2/21/2019 at 12:08 PM, fredob43 said:

1 foot (Can be more). From ground level.

Motor a  foot  off the  floor ........... but your electrical  box isnt

[kannot]

On 2/21/2019 at 12:08 PM, fredob43 said:

1 foot (Can be more). From ground level.

hmmm