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New Honda Wave a SLUG!


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Agreed, It does sound like a fuel issue however, worth also checking your battery for loose connections and bad earth. If any battery connections are loose you will get these symptoms. Also worth checking and adjusting the valve clearances (job for the shop though).

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On 6/2/2019 at 9:36 AM, BestB said:

 No one ever gets to test ride a bike, even test driving a car could be problematic????

I got to testdrive the honda Xadv and didn't even buy it , i wanted to wait for the second model because the first might have some childrens decease that will be fixed in the second model . And i also got to testdrive my isuzu Mux before i bought it .

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28 minutes ago, whooshbang said:

Agreed, It does sound like a fuel issue however, worth also checking your battery for loose connections and bad earth. If any battery connections are loose you will get these symptoms. Also worth checking and adjusting the valve clearances (job for the shop though).

Its a new Honda Wave and needs a man with a plan to put minds at rest.

 

apitest.jpg.c8ce989558206456dc1eabdc43c9ae26.jpg

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My wave 110i goes over a 100 kph so there's something wrong with your 125

On 6/2/2019 at 10:16 AM, bamboozled said:

I'll check that brake, thanks. As you know, the mechanics here never want to investigate and usually tell you there isn't a problem. But I will go back and try again. Yeah, the barely getting to 100km seemed pretty telling to me, too. At least now I have some numbers to throw around rather than just "it FEELS slow."

 

I'll report back.

 

I love the CLick acceleration, almost to the point it's dangerous as it's easy to "lunge" around and get into trouble. I like the bigger wheels on the Wave.

My wave 110i goes over a 100 so something wrong with your 125

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On 6/2/2019 at 1:20 PM, BestB said:

And trolling begins.  Do tell which shops have demonstration bikes ?

 

perhaps you should stop trolling before embarrassing yourself further 

Whether the poster is 'trolling' or not, I am not sure but I certainly agree with them on this occasion. To answer your question, Honda AP, Honda Big Wing, Kawasaki and Triumph all at Rama 5 all offer demos for bikes. Toyota Chaeng Wattana offer tests for cars.

 

And by trolling I can only assume you mean disagreeing? Maybe by not starting a post with "No one ever...." when offering your personal, yet limited experience on a matter may help with people constantly disagreeing with you. The forum is to help people with information. Non factual information passed as factual through phrasing should be called to attention for the good of others.

 

To the OP, you mentioned there is a delay in the engine starting to rev after you twist the throttle. Depending on how the throttle feels it may be a poorly adjusted throttle cable (if it isn't electronic fly by wire on a new model.. I'm not sure). One quick test you could do it to rotate the throttle a very small amount with the engine running. Just a little rotation. Hold it there. Does the engine begin to rev?

 

If no, turn the throttle another very small amount and hold it. Keep repeating until you get an increase in revs on the engine. Let us know the outcome. The amount the throttle turns before the engine revs more should be 2-3mm in relation to the right hand fixed plastic switch cluster. You could use a pencil or chalk to mark the throttle grip and the switch to check. If the distance is more than 2-3mm, then you will not be getting full throttle and that may explain your lack of perceived power.

 

There can be other issues with the FI actuator but that would be fairly uncommon. New engines, as another poster mentioned earlier do 'loosen up' after run in and rev more freely but there shouldn't be a delay in revving up.

 

Check the throttle and let us know. If that is out of spec, you can then go back to a Honda dealer letting them know that the throttle freeplay is not in spec and they will assess from there. Going to see them with a specific and easily identifiable issue is can be better than saying "my bike doesn't go fast enough or has no power."

 

good luck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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18 hours ago, whooshbang said:

Agreed, It does sound like a fuel issue however, worth also checking your battery for loose connections and bad earth. If any battery connections are loose you will get these symptoms. Also worth checking and adjusting the valve clearances (job for the shop though).

good point, also worth checking if the battery is a dud or not; ECUs don't like it even if only one cell is down on the battery. Though it might be difficult to find someone that can do a proper load test on it!

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18 hours ago, Farangwithaplan said:

Whether the poster is 'trolling' or not, I am not sure but I certainly agree with them on this occasion. To answer your question, Honda AP, Honda Big Wing, Kawasaki and Triumph all at Rama 5 all offer demos for bikes. Toyota Chaeng Wattana offer tests for cars.

 

And by trolling I can only assume you mean disagreeing? Maybe by not starting a post with "No one ever...." when offering your personal, yet limited experience on a matter may help with people constantly disagreeing with you. The forum is to help people with information. Non factual information passed as factual through phrasing should be called to attention for the good of others.

 

To the OP, you mentioned there is a delay in the engine starting to rev after you twist the throttle. Depending on how the throttle feels it may be a poorly adjusted throttle cable (if it isn't electronic fly by wire on a new model.. I'm not sure). One quick test you could do it to rotate the throttle a very small amount with the engine running. Just a little rotation. Hold it there. Does the engine begin to rev?

 

If no, turn the throttle another very small amount and hold it. Keep repeating until you get an increase in revs on the engine. Let us know the outcome. The amount the throttle turns before the engine revs more should be 2-3mm in relation to the right hand fixed plastic switch cluster. You could use a pencil or chalk to mark the throttle grip and the switch to check. If the distance is more than 2-3mm, then you will not be getting full throttle and that may explain your lack of perceived power.

 

There can be other issues with the FI actuator but that would be fairly uncommon. New engines, as another poster mentioned earlier do 'loosen up' after run in and rev more freely but there shouldn't be a delay in revving up.

 

Check the throttle and let us know. If that is out of spec, you can then go back to a Honda dealer letting them know that the throttle freeplay is not in spec and they will assess from there. Going to see them with a specific and easily identifiable issue is can be better than saying "my bike doesn't go fast enough or has no power."

 

good luck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello, I did the test as suggested. There is some play in the throttle hand grip, more than 2 or 3mm, but once some tension comes on it the engine immediately responds. Not sure if that play is normal or not. Or is that the play you suggest could be the source of the problem?

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4 hours ago, bamboozled said:

Hello, I did the test as suggested. There is some play in the throttle hand grip, more than 2 or 3mm, but once some tension comes on it the engine immediately responds. Not sure if that play is normal or not. Or is that the play you suggest could be the source of the problem?

Without being there it is hard to know. How many mm of free play before tension would you say? It will probably mean you are not getting 100% throttle, though. You can use this to go back to your dealer or another dealer and ask them to check the freeplay. That will give them a factual thing for them to check. Then ask the mechanic to take the bike for a quick test ride to see if it feels right to them.

 

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On 6/2/2019 at 9:36 AM, BestB said:

 No one ever gets to test ride a bike, even test driving a car could be problematic????

My local Toyota dealer actually advertises test drives near Yasothon. 

As for the 125 wave.

I've had one for 10 years and never had a problem still almost as good now as it was off the forecourt. 

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41 minutes ago, Farangwithaplan said:

Without being there it is hard to know. How many mm of free play before tension would you say? It will probably mean you are not getting 100% throttle, though. You can use this to go back to your dealer or another dealer and ask them to check the freeplay.

Modern Vespa again. This adjustment is part of the 1000 km service and at 12,000kms thereafter. 

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On 6/3/2019 at 1:30 PM, Fruit Trader said:

Its a new Honda Wave and needs a man with a plan to put minds at rest.

 

apitest.jpg.c8ce989558206456dc1eabdc43c9ae26.jpg

The mechanics I've asked didn't even have a compression gauge. Hardly knew what it was (partly my bad Thai).

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4 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

I know it is new but...

 

On Modern Vespas, they are very sensitive to valve adjustment so maybe worth getting those checked as well. 

Just checked here : https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/125-MOTO/WAVE/2017/AFS125MCRH/Engine/CAMSHAFT-VALVE/93026/E_03/1/29765

 

And the Wave is a rocket configuration. I thought they would have changed to a bucket and shim config by now. It might need a valve adjustement.

 

 

 

26 minutes ago, bamboozled said:

I made this RIVETING video!

There is a bit too much free play and you probably won't be getting 100% throttle but there won't be that much improvement.

 

When is your 1000km service due? If you can't wait ask the guys to check the throttle freeplay, ask them to do a test ride and if they agree it is a bit light on power for an engine that still needs to be broken in, you might ask about the valve clearances as VocalNeal above suggested.

 

Don't be despondent if the mechanic doesn't want to adjust the valves (if they are a bit out of spec) until a later date. Engines need to wear in. It will probably be out of Honda guidelines to touch valves before the first official check and getting an official Honda mechanic to sway from the service manual might be difficult.

 

Get them adjusted at first official service check.

 

Good luck.

 

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I'm almost at 2k now. Already had the 1k check and he just changed the oil if I remember correctly. The throttle play seems to be a minor issue, IMO. I mean, it will account for low top speed perhaps but doesn't explain the lack of pep. But I could be wrong! As mentioned, I will try and check this week, hopefully tomorrow.

If all else fails, I'm gonna have the engine bored!

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1 hour ago, bamboozled said:

I made this RIVETING video!

IMG_2682.MOV

Action of the throttle grip in your video look perfectly normal. The throttle body has returned to its stop relaxing the cable and leaving a few mm of free play at the grip. A check down at the throttle body would confirm full travel.

 

You really should get a diagnostics check (Honda service) as both the throttle position sensor and others can be out of range and not bring up the engine warning light.

 

Once you have confirmed a healthy injection system you can move on to other areas. 
 

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1 hour ago, bamboozled said:

The throttle play seems to be a minor issue, IMO.

You are right. The throttle won't affect the 'pep'. Neal may be onto something with valve clearance. There is very little to go wrong with these units. The only other thing I would suggest looking at is some sort of blockage either in the exhaust or the airbox.

 

It is not unheard of to have mud wasps or the like make a nest in motor inputs of outputs partially blocking the flow of gases.

 

 

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For goodness sake six pages now and no nearer a solution...why not take it round to your nearest "somchai" mechanic and let him try it out and see what he says....Honda Waves carry around half the worlds population on them and are virtually indestructable :thumbsup:

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I also don't think the throttle free play is a big issue according to your video, you can adjust it yourself a little bit tighter, I have done on all my bikes, look at the YouTube videos if not sure... always leave a little free play.

 

The easiest and cheapest way to solve this is to find another guy with similar bike, then exchange your bikes and together go for a few minutes ride, any half descent Thai or Farang owner will be happy to oblige,  the two of you can exchange notes after...sorted  ! lol

 

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16 hours ago, Farangwithaplan said:

I thought they would have changed to a bucket and shim config by now.

Honda Cub is designed to be cheap, easy to fix etc. Not complicated with shims and ......

It is a noodle delivery vehicle not a IOM TT bike.

Can access the tappets through large threaded plugs in the head and adjusted with a pair of pliers

hqdefault.jpg

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12 hours ago, Agusts said:

The easiest and cheapest way to solve this is to find another guy with similar bike, then exchange your bikes and together go for a few minutes ride, any half descent Thai or Farang owner will be happy to oblige,  the two of you can exchange notes after...sorted  ! lol

They don't even have to swap bikes. Just go onto an open bit of road and do a side by side acceleration from a standing start. The O/P will soon know if he really does have a problem.

 

Better still, make a video of the event and show it to the 'laughing mechanic'.

 

O/P, you've had a lot of crap advise along with the good stuff on this thread. Your motorcycle is under warranty, so please don't start meddling with it. Garner the evidence and get the bike back to dealers.

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2 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

Honda Cub is designed to be cheap, easy to fix etc. Not complicated with shims and ......

It is a noodle delivery vehicle not a IOM TT bike.

Can access the tappets through large threaded plugs in the head and adjusted with a pair of pliers

Yep, I knew that when I posted. I linked to the parts fiche in my post where I stated that. It clearly showed the overhead adjustable rocker.

 

The reason I'm suprised is that shim and bucket are generally non maintenence items. They are set and forget on non performance bikes. I would hardly call shim and bucket valve train IOM TT bike domain. The old adjustable rocker must still be cheaper to manufacture.

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i was complaining over the first scooter i bought here so long ago to the mechanics, and finally they promised to do something about it, guessing they changed jets,

and after that it was a rocket, albeit a more fuel hungry rocket,

but i was very content

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5 hours ago, Farangwithaplan said:

The reason I'm suprised is that shim and bucket are generally non maintenence items.

Bucket and shim are  a bit of a pain to to set up..they recommend checking every 12,000 KM on my bike

but its such a pain I've only ever done it once ( once was enough thanks)  my theory is that as things wear down the valve clearances should increase so the valves will open less and engine produces less power...but better than the clearances tightening  which could end up with "burned" valves and no power at all.

 

Check every 12,000 KMS

valves.jpg.fe65deba8f853b701b5bb1f0c9556668.jpg

 

Chart to select the correct size shim based on the clearances indicated with feeler gauges.

893499600_valvechart.jpg.182c67e4ccb88e984f48884021717e46.jpg

You also should have a micrometer or very least a vernier caliper to measure  the old and new shims

in my case the original shims had been sanded down and where not the thickness stamped on them.

 

Also had another "little problem"

559968177_camchaincover.JPG.4953971e19e64e5c47609d4643d130ef.JPG

 

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