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BANGKOK 19 July 2019 02:18
Thomas J

Mex Range Hoods - Anyone Know Appliance Parts Supplier?

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I have a Mex Range Hood.  It is apparently manufactured in Italy but I can't find any information on it over the internet. They are still sold here in Thailand.  The push button board that activates the exhaust fan is damaged.  Does anyone know of an Appliance parts supplier in Pattaya that might carry a replacement part for it? 

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Well, after some of your replies in the thread about 3BB speeds to be too surprised if nobody bothers to help you on this one.

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12 minutes ago, geoffbezoz said:

Well, after some of your replies in the thread about 3BB speeds to be too surprised if nobody bothers to help you on this one.

I was very clear that nothing changed other than the phone call to 3BB and I got numerous replies that it could be due to virus, stealing signal, heated router, etc. After reading about 6 of those responses all of which ignored the original thread it does get irritating. 

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Do they not have a head office in Thailand ?  maybe go back to the supplier where you bought it.

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MEX service center in Bangkok.  Telephone nbr:  02-817-8999.

You should get the part number before calling.  Ask your installer or just go to HomePro or any other major kitchen showrooms who will have a parts catalog.

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Ours isn't Mex, but the control board also failed. Turned out to be the transformer open-circuit, replacement was a couple of bucks from aliExpress.

 

If you've got it apart check the obvious like fuses and the transformer, it could be an easy fix.

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22 hours ago, ProbPossConf said:

MEX service center in Bangkok.  Telephone nbr:  02-817-8999.

You should get the part number before calling.  Ask your installer or just go to HomePro or any other major kitchen showrooms who will have a parts catalog.

Thank you so much.  

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14 hours ago, Crossy said:

Ours isn't Mex, but the control board also failed. Turned out to be the transformer open-circuit, replacement was a couple of bucks from aliExpress.

 

If you've got it apart check the obvious like fuses and the transformer, it could be an easy fix.

Thank You.  This one has a circuit board inside.  There is an area along on of the runs on the board that you can see a burn on.  I know some people have silver soldered those area to repair, but if I could find a replacement board or entire switch, I think I would be better off. 

IMG_5898.jpg

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10 hours ago, Thomas J said:

Thank You.  This one has a circuit board inside.  There is an area along on of the runs on the board that you can see a burn on.  I know some people have silver soldered those area to repair, but if I could find a replacement board or entire switch, I think I would be better off. 

IMG_5898.jpg

Where is the fault?

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4 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Where is the fault?

If you see the electric runs between the silver solder it is on the reverse side.  One burn close to a solder point. 

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Thomas J said:

If you see the electric runs between the silver solder it is on the reverse side.  One burn close to a solder point. 

Well all the solder joints (possibly lead tin, not silver as that's usually a high temperature one) look perfectly OK, the discolouration round the joints are flux residue. There could be a dry joint 3rd up on the left (try reflowing that one with lead solder), but none of the PCB tracks look damaged and no burn that is visible in that picture.

Edited by sometimewoodworker

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As the operational fault has not been disclosed I guess the OP has checked the motor and found fault on the switch PCB. Cant see any obvious damage on the PCB though.

 

Like many kitchen appliances, parts are often common across brands. Always search the part number first. 08080275

 

cookswitch.jpg.dbbe55dd98580cc985366fa39a2f2d3c.jpg

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1 hour ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Well all the solder joints (possibly lead tin, not silver as that's usually a high temperature one) look perfectly OK, the discolouration round the joints are flux residue. There could be a dry joint 3rd up on the left (try reflowing that one with lead solder), but none of the PCB tracks look damaged and no burn that is visible in that picture.

I took the picture to get the part number.  The reverse side has a black burn mark around one of the solder points on the reverse side.  I can only assume that is the problem since it does not work and so I can't test any of the switches.  Since none of the switches work I suspect it is the circuit board.  I have heard about reflowing by here in Thailand getting anyone who is skilled at repair is a challenge. 

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29 minutes ago, Thomas J said:

I took the picture to get the part number.  The reverse side has a black burn mark around one of the solder points on the reverse side.  I can only assume that is the problem since it does not work and so I can't test any of the switches.  Since none of the switches work I suspect it is the circuit board.  I have heard about reflowing by here in Thailand getting anyone who is skilled at repair is a challenge. 

It appears to be a very simple circuit maybe a photo of the component side would help with ideas.

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1 hour ago, Thomas J said:

I took the picture to get the part number.  The reverse side has a black burn mark around one of the solder points on the reverse side.  I can only assume that is the problem since it does not work and so I can't test any of the switches.  Since none of the switches work I suspect it is the circuit board.  I have heard about reflowing by here in Thailand getting anyone who is skilled at repair is a challenge. 

Humm, it would help if you posted a picture that actually shows the place that could be a problem rather than a side that shows as probable perfect wouldn't it? FWIW circuit boards can be damaged but seldom are, usually it's the components that fail 

 

Reflowing a solder joint is hardly rocket science and requires very little skill. Even I am capable of doing it. 😏 so it can't be very difficult.

 

The switches may be able to be tested with a very cheap multimeter, set to resistance. 

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