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Click 150i = Pros / Cons ?


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I guess I = Injection = No carburetor.

That is fine if all works fine but you won't be able to change any settings which are easy to change on a bike with carburetor.

So if you consider changing anything like a different exhaust, etc. that might be a lot easier on a carburetor bike.

 

I have a modern bike with computer controlled injection, ignition, etc. And it works according to the newest emission standards.

And it runs not smooth below 4,000RPM. And I can't do anything about it and the dealer's mechanics can't do anything about it because it's all in a sealed computer.

I could buy an aftermarket part for 300USD to solve this problem. I won't...

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4 minutes ago, OneMoreFarang said:

I guess I = Injection = No carburetor.

That is fine if all works fine but you won't be able to change any settings which are easy to change on a bike with carburetor.

So if you consider changing anything like a different exhaust, etc. that might be a lot easier on a carburetor bike.

 

I have a modern bike with computer controlled injection, ignition, etc. And it works according to the newest emission standards.

And it runs not smooth below 4,000RPM. And I can't do anything about it and the dealer's mechanics can't do anything about it because it's all in a sealed computer.

I could buy an aftermarket part for 300USD to solve this problem. I won't...

 

Not the least bit interested in modding out the bike.

 

I could buy a Suzuki Raider if that was my intention.

 

This is a runabout twist and go type so wondering if the extra 25cc is worth the squeeze from the juice from the original 125i click.

 

I hate the look and oversized fairing of the PCX so never considered that model.

 

Edited by JimmyTheMook
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3 minutes ago, JimmyTheMook said:

 

Not the least bit interested in modding out the bike.

 

I could buy a Suzuki Raider if that was my intention.

 

This is a runabout twist and go type so wondering if the extra 25cc is worth the squeeze from the juice from the original 125i click.

 

I hate the look and oversized fairing of the PCX so never considered that model.

 

Buy the Raider 150. I have one (with carburetor). It's a lot of fun. ???? 

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Not many scooter can be had with carburetors now, maybe some Chinese models.

 

FI is the way to go, optimum fuel consumption under all conditions. Some carburetors also don't like E fuel (gasohol).

 

I would get the 150cc model if I was you, gives you a bit extra grunt which is good, especially 2 up.

 

 

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022735100_1483942932-New-PCX150-Colors.jpg.6538c95b2aae0b145dee76db07b70ac2.jpg

I didn't like this white / black and orange when they had it a few years ago on the PCX and i still don't like it.

But if it matches your taste then go for it ????

 

Imho it's quite easy, because it's simply a Click with 25 more cc:

When you ride a 125cc bike, do you often give full throttle? Going for 150cc makes sense

If you nearly never give full throttle on a 125cc bike, then you probably don't have a use for the extra 25cc.

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19 minutes ago, jackdd said:

It always depends on how you read the numbers.

You can say "just 1HP and 2Nm", or you could say: 12% more horsepower and 19% more torque.

I'm quite sure that this difference is noticeable, even without comparing them next to each other ????

Noticeable yes, but how much? I don't think it's gonna make a big difference. Interestingly enough it seems the phillipino version seems to have better specs: https://www.zigwheels.ph/new-motorcycles/honda/click-150i/specifications

 

19% more peak torque means what on a CVT driven bike? If it always switches to the highest power RPM which is at 8.5k in order to provide maximum acceleration at full throttle then it doesn't matter much what torque it can produce at 5k or 5.5k respectively. In terms of acceleration you will then get only <12% improvement. Mind you I don't know how the Click CVT behaves in terms of RPM. Maybe it stays at lower RPM for fuel efficiency reasons?

 

In the end everything is always relative. If you try both back to back then you will probably take the 150. If you have another bike with a lot more power then choosing between the 125 and 150 might be a case of "meh, I only use it to zip down to 7 anyways, who cares, I'll keep the 9k price diff".

 

They should have given the 150 ABS imho. But I guess that's the PCX selling point that they don't want to cannibalize?

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Pros: You get somewhere faster than taking a Grab, a metered taxi, a bus, a train?, walking, or bicycling.   

Motorcycles are fun and cool to look at.  Chicks dig guys on motorcycles.

 

Cons: Thailand has the second highest road traffic fatality rate in the world at 36.2 per 100 000 with an annual estimate of over 24 000 deaths or 66 deaths every day. While globally 49% of road traffic deaths are among vulnerable road users (pedestrians, cyclists and motorcyclists), it is 83% in Thailand including 73% among motorcyclists or 48 per day.  http://www.searo.who.int/thailand/areas/roadsafety/en/

 

 

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17 hours ago, OneMoreFarang said:

And it runs not smooth below 4,000RPM. And I can't do anything about it and the dealer's mechanics can't do anything about it because it's all in a sealed computer.

That's strange, the ecu computer can be re-calculated and checked your dealers mechanics more and likely are just spanners like me, I like carbs. ???? 

At Kwakas in Nakhon Sawan a technician plugged into my Versys ecu and checked everything, the difference was certainly noticeable. 

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33 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

That's strange, the ecu computer can be re-calculated and checked your dealers mechanics more and likely are just spanners like me, I like carbs. ???? 

At Kwakas in Nakhon Sawan a technician plugged into my Versys ecu and checked everything, the difference was certainly noticeable. 

I guess it depends on the bike. In my case, KTM, there is nothing the mechanics can do. The ECU has it's fixed maps and that's it. It seems until now nobody in the world found a way to hack that ECU (except physically breaking it open and then messing around with it). 3rd party additional components are connected in between like i.e. the real air sensor measures 30 degrees but the manipulated signal shows 20 degrees to the ECU so that the ECU adds more fuel. And other "tricks" like that.

Personally I think emission controls are a good idea - but sometimes it just goes too far.

And it seems for the future mechanics (or even electronic specialist) can't do anything anymore on engine settings for many bikes.

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1 hour ago, OneMoreFarang said:

I guess it depends on the bike. In my case, KTM, there is nothing the mechanics can do. The ECU has it's fixed maps and that's it. It seems until now nobody in the world found a way to hack that ECU (except physically breaking it open and then messing around with it).

Like I said seems strange but like you said maybe depends on the bike.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbw9tI5gRCU

 

Edited by Kwasaki
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3 hours ago, OneMoreFarang said:

I guess it depends on the bike. In my case, KTM, there is nothing the mechanics can do. The ECU has it's fixed maps and that's it. It seems until now nobody in the world found a way to hack that ECU (except physically breaking it open and then messing around with it). 3rd party additional components are connected in between like i.e. the real air sensor measures 30 degrees but the manipulated signal shows 20 degrees to the ECU so that the ECU adds more fuel. And other "tricks" like that.

Personally I think emission controls are a good idea - but sometimes it just goes too far.

And it seems for the future mechanics (or even electronic specialist) can't do anything anymore on engine settings for many bikes.

Did you solder in a reister into the circuit , fooling the ECU into running a colder map.  Not many KTM experts in Thailand. KTM factory do sell performance parts. 

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22 minutes ago, ktm jeff said:

Did you solder in a reister into the circuit , fooling the ECU into running a colder map.  Not many KTM experts in Thailand. KTM factory do sell performance parts. 

No simple resistor - I am in the process of developing an "intelligent" circuit with Arduino. If you are interested send me a PM.

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On 7/10/2019 at 8:12 PM, eisfeld said:

If it always switches to the highest power RPM which is at 8.5k in order to provide maximum acceleration at full throttle then it doesn't matter much what torque it can produce at 5k or 5.5k

IF is the key word here. Generally the CVT set up from the factory is quite

 

On 7/10/2019 at 8:27 PM, BritManToo said:

At least with a key, I know where it is when I'm riding the bike.

And so do the police. Usually the first thing they go for. If it is in your pocket not so easy.

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I've had the old 110 cc Honda Click for 13 years, and never any serious issues. I change the oil once a year and after 10 years I had the whole thing stripped down and anything looking worn replaced, including all the plastic bodywork. If I needed another bike I wouldn't look at anything else but a Click. One of my farang neighbours has had a 150 cc Click for a while now and he gets on fine with it. He's also got a Honda Phantom but seems to use the Click all the time, cheaper I guess.

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Go for it.

 

Beside its smaller size @ 107kg and step through design (personal preference), I don't see any cons with it. 

 

It's fuel efficient (FI) and affordable price for a 150cc. 

 

Edited by alx123
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On 7/10/2019 at 7:31 PM, jackdd said:

It always depends on how you read the numbers.

You can say "just 1HP and 2Nm", or you could say: 12% more horsepower and 19% more torque.

I'm quite sure that this difference is noticeable, even without comparing them next to each other ????

On a bike this size, that jump in torque would be very noticeable. And the most important thing is that the max torque on the bigger engine comes in 500 rpm lower in the rev range and that would certainly make things better around town.

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