bamboozled Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 So...I'lI have an old movie light from the 1930's arriving from the USA and I would like to use it in Thailand. It's a funky cool conversation piece; the light it puts out is not beautiful but the object itself is pretty rad. It consists of 8 fluorescent light fixtures (ballast, starter, and all that other good stuff). What is my best bet on using it here? I'm thinking if I plug it in all the fluorescent light stuff will fry (I did not ship it with the tubes because of breakage factor). Not sure if light tubes bought here would light at all or not. The other idea would be to run it on a step down transformer BUT would 220 fluorescent tubes light at all? Third option would be to rewire the whole thing though I fear I would not be able to fit the parts correctly into the 1930's architecture. I guess the fourth option is to secure, somehow, 110 tubes. Doesn't sound fun.Thoughts anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bankruatsteve Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 Interesting. I think it would work OK if you can find tubes that fit. Maybe need to replace ballast with one designed for 220V. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamboozled Posted July 28, 2019 Author Share Posted July 28, 2019 Yeah it is a very cool huge heavy steel construction, too. I have some pics of it somewhere but I couldn't locate them. As soon as I do, I'll post them up. Tubes in the States were easy enough to find so I don't think that part will be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 The 60Hz ballasts are not going to be happy on 50Hz even with a transformer. If you can get tubes to fit length and pin-spacing wise then just get local tubes and electronic ballasts and re-wire the beast. The ballasts will certainly be smaller than the current magnetic ones. If it's all existing 1930s innards I wouldn't trust the insulation now anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamboozled Posted July 28, 2019 Author Share Posted July 28, 2019 I have plugged it in and used it in the US though not for long periods of time so it does work. If I can't find the pics I already have I'll take some new ones once it gets here next month. I do remember the wiring being quite old as I had to do a little hacker work in the back to get it going. Thanks for the input. What's the deal, older ballasts are 60HZ and newer ones 50HZ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamboozled Posted July 28, 2019 Author Share Posted July 28, 2019 Found 'em! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 9 minutes ago, bamboozled said: What's the deal, older ballasts are 60HZ and newer ones 50HZ? No, as well as being 120V the US is 60Hz, Thailand is 50Hz. 60Hz ballasts may saturate on 50Hz and will also have too low an impedance to limit the tube current to safe levels leading to reduced tube life. It's possible you could make it work on a 100V (Japanese) transformer but to be honest just re-wiring it for 220V has to be the safest option. Looking at the photos I wouldn't be connecting that to the power anywhere. But it looks like a nice easy re-wire if you can get tubes to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamboozled Posted July 28, 2019 Author Share Posted July 28, 2019 I understand. Once I have it in hand I'll have a look and see if it's an easy thing to do. Hopefully newer hardware will fit correctly. I could just add fluorescents without the ballast, yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamboozled Posted July 28, 2019 Author Share Posted July 28, 2019 ...a couple pics of the space where the hardware goes and the reflector that the tubes sit above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 3 minutes ago, bamboozled said: I could just add fluorescents without the ballast, yes? You will need 50Hz ballasts to replace those "interesting" black boxes. Get electronic ballasts, easy to wire. You could use LED tubes, but that may kill the "look" of the beast. EDIT Those are 20W tubes (8 x 20 = 160), you'll need to find tubes that will fit. With luck "2 foot" (actually 23") 18W tubes should fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamboozled Posted July 28, 2019 Author Share Posted July 28, 2019 I can't imagine using it for movie work. It only puts out 160 watts of ugly green light. I suppose with black and white film the color temp didn't matter but...that's not much light! And quite flat light, too. Beast indeed. I suppose re-wiring it is going to kill it on the collectability scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 2 minutes ago, bamboozled said: I suppose re-wiring it is going to kill it on the collectability scale. Keep all the bits you strip out so if a rabid collector wants to return it to original he can. As it is it's not going to be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamboozled Posted July 28, 2019 Author Share Posted July 28, 2019 Good idea. Are the electronic ballast lights....seemingly without ballast? I know I have bought some fluorescents recently with no ballast and no igniter (as far as I can tell). They come on immediately. I'm thinking to fit in those, if possible. Is that what you intend by "electronic ballast?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 7 minutes ago, bamboozled said: Good idea. Are the electronic ballast lights....seemingly without ballast? I know I have bought some fluorescents recently with no ballast and no igniter (as far as I can tell). They come on immediately. I'm thinking to fit in those, if possible. Is that what you intend by "electronic ballast?" There's a small box somewhere, unless the "fluorescents" you bought are actually LEDs ???? https://www.homepro.co.th/homePro/th/Construction-Electrical-Lighting-Accsessories-Ballasts/BALLAST-ELECTRONIC-LPF-18W-LAMPTAN/p/1025929 Easy and light enough to fit using double-sided tape to avoid damaging the original structure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wgdanson Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 59 minutes ago, bamboozled said: Found 'em! What a monstrosity. Why not fit LED tubes if you really like the fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamboozled Posted July 28, 2019 Author Share Posted July 28, 2019 Indeed it IS a monstrosity! What do LED tubes look like? Hmm, I'll have to look at the "fluorescents" I have. I don't know where the ballast could possible be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 8 minutes ago, bamboozled said: Indeed it IS a monstrosity! What do LED tubes look like? Some look exactly like fluorescent tubes others not so much. Not so much Exactly like fluorescent tubes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamboozled Posted July 29, 2019 Author Share Posted July 29, 2019 Ah! Yes, that's what I have, the ones on the bottom. They sure do look like fluorescents. I think that is my best bet for putting in the beast. The best part about this thread is I have nailed down, finally, how to spell "fluorescent." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digbeth Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 you can get led tubes shaped like fluorescent tubes that don't require ballast or starter to work, so you can keep the old ballast for looks, otherwise rewiring with a new style ballast won't look good. the old bayonet should work too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirejerker Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Be aware the LEDs have a beam angle between 160 -320 degrees where the fluorescents angle is 360 degrees. The leds will throw less light back into the fitting’s reflectors giving a light and dark stripe look. If it is ambience you want you should go the 18 watt fluorescent tube with the electronic ballastsSent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 2 hours ago, Wirejerker said: Be aware the LEDs have a beam angle between 160 -320 degrees Mine tubes have a 330 degree beam angle. the drop ceiling ones about 220 degrees as that is a more effective spread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamboozled Posted August 1, 2019 Author Share Posted August 1, 2019 Thanks guys! Are the "bayonets" the two prongs coming out of each end? It should arrive soon after which I can start experimenting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 3 hours ago, bamboozled said: Thanks guys! Are the "bayonets" the two prongs coming out of each end? It should arrive soon after which I can start experimenting. They are exactly the same physical ends and length as fluorescent tubes, T5 or T8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirejerker Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 They are exactly the same physical ends and length as fluorescent tubes, T5 or T8Putting myself out on a limb now but I agree with STWW you have a t8 fitting for a 18/20 watt fluorescent tube. The bayonet cap is an older type of fitting witch has stood the test of time but not for your app. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirejerker Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 Witch with a hSent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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