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How about a solar car port on a budget?


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11 hours ago, BritManToo said:

I predict the 345w panels will damage the 300w panels.

 

They have very similar max-power and short-circuit currents, the 345W units are slightly higher max-power voltage, both recommend a 20A fuse. I doubt there will be any serious problems, we shall see.

 

It's a few minutes work to move the two 345W panels over to the other string, I may do that later today.

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15 hours ago, Crossy said:

 

They have very similar max-power and short-circuit currents, the 345W units are slightly higher max-power voltage, both recommend a 20A fuse. I doubt there will be any serious problems, we shall see.

 

It's a few minutes work to move the two 345W panels over to the other string, I may do that later today.

I don't know how these strings are configured so assuming you have them arranged as two strings of nine then, adding two more, they would become two strings of ten. There will be no problem except that you will not realise the full power of the 345W units. The new 345W panels would be current limited by the rest of the string. I am also assuming you have taken the additional voltage into account.......

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32 minutes ago, Muhendis said:

I don't know how these strings are configured so assuming you have them arranged as two strings of nine then, adding two more, they would become two strings of ten. There will be no problem except that you will not realise the full power of the 345W units. The new 345W panels would be current limited by the rest of the string. I am also assuming you have taken the additional voltage into account.......

 

It's a string of 8 * 345 half-cell and a second string of 8 * 300 + 2 * 345 full-cell panels.

 

I suspect changing the full-cell 345W units to the other string may be a good idea from the capacity point of view but I doubt any actual damage will occur to the 300W panels.

 

The inverter has independent MPPT controllers on each string so mis-matched strings are not an issue.

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Looks great Crossy. 

I think before you were pretty well using all you 45A single phase current. In the future do you plan not to be limited by the grid phase current available and just use the sun and batteries?

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3 minutes ago, carlyai said:

Looks great Crossy. 

I think before you were pretty well using all you 45A single phase current. In the future do you plan not to be limited by the grid phase current available and just use the sun and batteries?

 

Batteries are an option if we ever get stuck with a no-reverse meter, until then we'll just push excess into the grid. That bridge will get crossed when we come to it.

 

We do get near our 45A meter limit (50A incoming breaker) when we have visitors (our UK family like A/C when they visit) although the incomer has never opened on overload.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Muhendis said:

Innovation is clearly your forte. Well done.

Is it not possible to apply for a feed in tariff account? 

 

It is ... 

 

But (there's always a "but").

 

In order to be eligible for the FIT (called "My Solar Roof" IIRC) you have to:-

Having spoken to PEA we decided to wing it, if we get caught out they will install a no reverse meter and we will have to look at whether it's worth going for a hybrid (batteries) solution.

 

EDIT And, it seems that you have to do the install and then get it approved, no idea what happens if it's not up to scratch.

 

EDIT2 At least there's a plus, the only Sofar inverter on the PEA list is a grid-tie hybrid.

 

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5 hours ago, Crossy said:

WiFi no-export switch.jpg

 

Always and Never wrong position? With regards to the  'Export Control'

 

Or it is my adaption of the language... ????

 

Export Control , 'Never' control the export,  CT need open.

Export Control,  'Always' control the export, CT need to be connected.

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5 minutes ago, Metropolitian said:

Export Control , 'Never' control the export,  CT need open.

Export Control,  'Always' control the export, CT need to be connected.

 

"Never" means "never export" (CT connected permanantly)

"Always" means "always export" (CT disconnected permanently)

 

Gotta just love the English language, it can mean whatever you want ????

 

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3 hours ago, johng said:

Its great you wrote your own code..but I,being very lazy ( not to mention  no coding skills)

would have used "Tasmota" it has a built in webserver,built in timers, can be easily integrated into a MQTT network, control with a phone app etc etc.

https://tasmota.github.io/docs/

Good suggestion, in fact I am using ESPeasy for that here. 

 

Running Home Assistant on the server which keeps history data, sends information to;

 

- a wireless LCD display by MQTT messaging.  (ESP Nodemcu boards)

- smaller sensors and relay switches which are programmed by code upload and works with URL commando's (ESP01s boards).

 

ESPHome is something worth to look at, integration with the automations but no fancy webserver so suitable for smaller ESP boards.

 

 

 

Tasmota:  https://tasmota.github.io/docs/

EspEasy:  https://www.letscontrolit.com/wiki/index.php/ESPEasy#Introduction

EspHome:  https://esphome.io/

Arduino ide: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software (Easy way to upload the code, comes with a load of libraries for the Arduino boards and displays.  For the ESP boards you need add libraries for it)

Aditional board libraries (ESP8266) for the Arduino ide : https://github.com/esp8266/Arduino

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

As one of those annoying people who likes to see what's going on at all times I picked up a couple of these baby (128x32) OLED displays. 

https://www.lazada.co.th//products/i1461942719-s3820172063.html 

They are very small but also very readable even the smallest of the text styles. There's also a 128x64 version in 0.9" which uses the same library and a 128x64 1.3" version which needs a different library. I have the necessary libraries if anyone wants them (saving a Google search).

 

fee42b0b69efcb7accbf60c396e94839.jpg

 

Built a litte adaptor board that goes between the ESP-8266 and the relay board.

 

20200816_110909.jpg

 

I've also modified the software to work with either the V4.0 relay board or the original V1.0 board and changed the manner in which one sets the dates for "no export".

 

ESP8266_NTP_No_Export_Relay_With_Display_2.0b.ino

 

The circuit, a handy by-product of using GPIO2 as SCL is that the on-board LED flashes at 1Hz when the display seconds field updates acting as a "heartbeat" indicator.

 

Note that the 128x64 versions have VCC and GND swapped vs the 128x32.

OLED.jpg

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3 hours ago, Crossy said:

As one of those annoying people who likes to see what's going on at all times I picked up a couple of these baby (128x32) OLED displays. 

 

Glad I'm not the only one 555 lost the counts of displays here

 

3 hours ago, Crossy said:

20200816_110909.jpg

 

I've also modified the software to work with either the V4.0 relay board or the original V1.0 board and changed the manner in which one sets the dates for "no export".

 

The circuit, a handy by-product of using GPIO2 as SCL is that the on-board LED flashes at 1Hz when the display seconds field updates acting as a "heartbeat" indicator.

Is the clock right according your wife or NTP? ????

 

 

 

3 hours ago, Crossy said:

Note that the 128x64 versions have VCC and GND swapped vs the 128x32.

OLED.jpg

Seems random between displays, even for ones in the same range like the oleds..

50668.jpg.fe14baee2ee8eb58a334a0f598e295a3.jpg

50667.jpg.93e3af09fe0d4760e877129108868a56.jpg

 

 

50664.jpg.f1e37234181091ac4eb0ad9f342ee6dc.jpg

This is a goose between the ducks ???? Although not I2C but uses serial data anyhow. Note the two GND's, only one is needed.

 

 

50666.jpg.857b5557358a82276e28e76a2e74871d.jpg

50665.jpg.3c8168bc2d26afb679e18c4e7e43dbb4.jpg

Still need to find out if I can use this with the ESP01

This display I ordered when I had the idea to once make a small Back To The Future time clocks.

02b5b109-55d2-46df-bcb7-41fc142d748b.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Just now, Crossy said:

Yesterday 26/08/20 we broke the 30 units generated in one day barrier with 31.21 units from our 8 x 300W + 10 * 345W panels ???? 

We only used 6.8 units from the grid. Could be heading for an embarrassingly low bill if it doesn't rain. 

I've told Madam to do more ironing or something.

You're lucky, it's been overcast/raining every day this month in Chiang Mai.

I'll be lucky to get 1/2 unit per day per panel.

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The "No Export Relay" now has a web interface so I can control it from anywhere should I get the urge and it stores the status in FLASH memory (the ESP8266 has no EEPROM) so it survives a reset / power failure.

 

The simplest of web interfaces but it does the job.

 

relay.jpg

 

And the software if anyone is interested.ESP8266_SSD1306_NoExpRel_3.0a.ino

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
23 hours ago, scorecard said:

Would it be true that since your venture the price of sells has gone down quite a bit?

And the quality of the panels slowly going up?

 

Yup, 2,800 Baht for a 340W poly panel. 

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/340-w-genius-340-soler-panel-polycrytaline-340-kerry-i713768389-s1367528011.html

 

Power output per-panel is certainly increasing, "quality" from the low-cost Chinese factories remains to be seen.

 

We paid a bit more for our Trina panels, we also have 2 Lazada cheepies which are currently working just fine.

 

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On 9/1/2019 at 3:15 PM, johng said:

Imagine how much power would be produced if every roof top in Thailand was covered in solar panels..they would (probably) not have to import any electric from neighbouring countries and save billions on gas and oil.

 

also less tea money involved..

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