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How to fill external 750L Water Tank.


JeffersLos

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There was a problem with the water meter. It was constantly spinning.

 

The landlord sent some people to deal with it, and paid the 2,500thb water bill.

 

These people installed a massive water tank before the water pump.

 

 

30 minutes after they left, water was flowing out the top of it.

 

I closed the taps.

 

Filled it up again and it took a few hours to fill.

 

 

Now it doesn't fill at all and the water pressure in the house is really, really low. Had all the taps turned on for 3 days, the meter is spinning slowly, but it just isn't filling up. 

 

B7zrs1u.jpg

 

The water meter is on the left side of this, and the water pump is to the right side if this. 

 

ka8WLlJ.jpg

 

What's going on?

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21 minutes ago, JeffersLos said:

30 minutes after they left, water was flowing out the top of it.

 

There should be a float valve inside the tank which stops the water once the tank is full. Time to climb up and have a look inside.

 

When we moved in our daytime pressure wouldn't fill the tank, but it topped up over night.

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1 hour ago, Crossy said:

 

There should be a float valve inside the tank which stops the water once the tank is full. Time to climb up and have a look inside.

 

When we moved in our daytime pressure wouldn't fill the tank, but it topped up over night.

Same here, we don't have pressure all day, sometimes there is at different times and other times it's overnight.

1 hour ago, Arjen said:

Your pressure pump should be on the outlet side from the tank. So pressurising your house system. The meter and the tubes before the tank should fill your holding tank. Preferable with a check valve. To prevent your tank is emptied in the water system. In case your filling tube is above water level from the tank you do not need the check valve.

 

Arjen.

The filling pipe needs  a float valve to stop the tank overflowing. 

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2 minutes ago, JeffersLos said:

Thanks.

 

Nothing stops it from overflowing.

 

The pressure is tiny in the daytime. It doesn't fill.

 

I will try it at the nighttime and hopefully not wake up to a raging waterfall.

Try what, is the tank isolated from the town supply and you will open a valve? 

No float valve - - - the tank will overflow. 

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There should be a float valve in the top of the tank, usually there is a access cover on the top that you can unscrew.

Take a look inside and hopefully you will see something like this:

IMG_2872.JPG

Works the same principle as a toilet flush, rising water lifts the ball and closes the incoming water.
When water is drawn off it should automatically top back up, so even if your pressure is low it won’t take much to complete the level.

Obviously the people who fit the tank didn’t test the ball valve ( if one exists !! ).

Take a look inside and see if the float is free and easy and not touching the side, with the water open you should be able to lift it and see the flow of water stop, if not try to determine why .

Recently on here there was a thread about an overflowing water tank, turned out the float had fallen off !!

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I have one of those tanks...or looks similar. The pipe to the float valve is inside the tank, but the float valve was not connected and came in a plastic bag with the tank.

Sometimes they don't install 'spare parts' of what seems to the installers to be spare parts.



Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk

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The description of events in the OP seem strange to me.  First the water meter was "spinning" - but where was the water going?  It seems that it would have been obvious.  So, a tank was installed to fix the problem but appears to not have a connected ball-cock to stop the inflow and wonder if the pump bypass done correctly.

 

Then, "Now it doesn't fill at all and the water pressure in the house is really, really low. Had all the taps turned on for 3 days, the meter is spinning slowly, but it just isn't filling up."  Is the pump turned off or blocked by valve (IE: why no pressure in the house)?  When the pump turns on and if it doesn't stop, then you need a valve to control the bypass.  

 

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1 minute ago, CharlieH said:

Looking at the photo the in and out of the tank are both at the bottom ????? Usually the" in" is at the top with a ball valve (same as cistern on wc) so when the tank is full it shuts off.

Some tank designs have an internal riser.  Assuming that's the case here.

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2 minutes ago, CharlieH said:

Looking at the photo the in and out of the tank are both at the bottom ????? Usually the" in" is at the top with a ball valve (same as cistern on wc) so when the tank is full it shuts off.

one of the bottom ones will go internally to the top for the ball valve

 

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4 hours ago, Andrew Dwyer said:


Most now are like this

IMG_2876.JPG

Top: inlet
Middle: outlet
Bottom: drain

Sorry to contradict you, but you're wrong in saying most.

 

There may be some tanks like that but every one I looked at when shopping for my tanks (including one that looked similar to the one you show) had the inlet at the top. There is less to go wrong with the conventional design.

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Ok, thanks.

 

Solved.

 

I climbed up and took off the lid.

 

The inlet pipe that goes in at the bottom then actually comes up to the top inside it. Attached to it is a biggish white plastic box, I turned that and the water comes out really fast, fills it up in a few minutes, turning it again slows it right down.

 

Oddly enough the water downstairs seems weaker than the water upstairs. Especially in the kitchen which is the farthest downstairs room from it. 

 

 

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