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Susco

I'll leave this here for the experts

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😱OMG how many bends have you got in all that pipe wok I have never seen such a mess . Blue pipe is so cheap can I suggest you strip the whole lot down and start again and I’m not even a plumber the least bends you have the better for the run of the water 

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On 2/10/2020 at 5:18 PM, Bagwain said:

Who the Foooook plumbed that mess!! 🤣🤣

Not pretty is it! as above, those were my first thoughts!

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On 2/11/2020 at 7:54 PM, Susco said:

As stated in my last post, over night the strainer will drain if i leave the valves open, and I'm afraid that when the morning cycle starts the pump will have to prime every time.

Mine does this every time I shut the pump off, it reaches a level or equilibrium and stays there, no problem if the pump has to re prime every time it starts up, its quick, cheap and painless!

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Where your new union is fitted provides an ideal spot for an air pocket ,run your pump,loosen your union to confirm there is no air in this "pocket" reseal after "bleeding "the system.

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I'm no expert but just to confirm: You have a presumably good valve right at the pump inlet and a similar one at the outlet. And you still get air in the strainer whether both valves are open or closed.

 

What I find strange is that you mentioned how much teflon tape you should use at the inlet connection to the pump. You should have a good coupler there with a good rubber gasket, positioned correctly at that coupler. Make sure all is clean, no nicks and No teflon needed. 

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I assume you have a skimmer, If not enough water, it will take air in.

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'Antifreeze' above is correct, you should have  the correct union on the pump, absolutely not a blue threaded union with teflon tape.

The correct type is in the photo - white arrow with an 'O' ring at the red arrow.  I once spent weeks trying to find an air leak in the system and this was the last place I looked. The union became tight before the 'O' ring was compressed sufficiently. Note the photo is not the inlet side.

 

Try using shaving foam around suspected joints, sometimes this will show the leak where the foam is sucked away.

 

If a glued joint is leaking you can sometimes fix it on the inlet side by applying more glue that will get sucked in but it has to be dry so only do after the pump has been running an hour or so and/or dry with a solvent such as brake cleaner or turps.

IMG_5133A.jpg

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On 2/11/2020 at 8:22 PM, jany123 said:

I’m assuming that’s an impeller pump, so having to prime isn’t a problem, as long as it does prime in due course (within a couple of minutes)

If it has a mechanical seal you can destroy that pretty quickly.

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Take a water hose and run water over each union on the suction side.  When you run water over the leaking connection the bubbles in the pump glass will stop or decrease, depending on the number of leaks.  Good luck.  

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CLOSED (on request of OP)

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