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RCBO tripping why?


Swiss1960

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On 5/18/2020 at 10:16 AM, Swiss1960 said:

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5 hours ago, Crossy said:

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10 hours ago, Swiss1960 said:

All the devices I mentioned are in the pool area behind the RCBO. So the flow is from the kitchen fuse panel to the RCBO to the washing machine, the pool pump and all those devices in the Patio area (my patio is MY kingdom, so everything is there I need..).

 

So i guess to be on the safe side, replacement it is, question is from where and how much, what would you specialists recommend?

 

To have it all safe and running.   We would like to know what exactly you are running behind the RCBO and we can estimate a rating for the new RCBO.

 

A crude calculation:

TV, fridge, poll robot, small oven, 2 fans,  treadmill  .. pool pump.. sockets

150 + 50 + 2000 + 40 + 40 + 600 + 1500 + ...

That's 4380 without the sockets.

I wouldn't keep all this on 16A.

Either replace the MCB in the CU for a RCBO rated 32A - or a bigger MCB rated 32 amp and in the place of the old'n'broken RCBO do install two wall mount RCBO (as in post #14) with the second one for the pool pump and oven or a smallish CU (with 32A RCBO and 2 16A MCB's) is what I would recommend.

 

 

 

 

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9 minutes ago, lopburi3 said:

But you do not need any earth wire for a difference to be detected between L and N.  RCBO will operate fine without ground wire and is a prime reason to have here where many homes do not have

proper earth ground and you become the potential ground path (but of course best to have both). 

 

It's true the RCBO can operate without a earth wire. But...

If you want to be the potential ground path, you do not need any earth wire ????

 

 

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Ok, my final update-I hope... bought and installed new RCBO, see pic, 25A. Since i never use more than half of the devices in parallel, i think i should be safe.

 

After installing, it tripped immediately. My handyman checked my wiring and found out, that the lights around the pool area cause the problem. Once he disconnected those (see pic), the new RCBO stayed connected. He thinks that water leaked inside on of the lights and causes the problems, he will check the lights tomorrow.

 

Am impressed how fast he found my problems... he is my painter, fixed my water leak problem (another topic of mine), he repaints my walls, he installs my security cams, he put new tiles around my house and he is now also officially my electrician.. all for less than 1000 Baht per day.. 

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11 hours ago, Metropolitian said:

btw, In single phase (L1) installation wiring codes are

 

L - Thai Black or Red - Eur. Brown

N - Thai Grey or White - Eur. Blue

...unless the previous 'electrician' used wiring codes they invented themselves. Best practice is to test ALL opened connection to see which is used for LIVE.

 

 

So far I've encountered a 3rd of CUs with mains incomer reversed with breakers switching neutrals; and about half where the light switches are wiring on White/Blue. My only correction is to make sure LIVE is the one being switched, the rest I leave the rest as-is because electricity is colorblind.

 

Edited by RichCor
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