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Want CHEAP electric chainsaw


Susco

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I have to cut a few small trees and look to buy a cheap electric chainsaw from Lazada.

 

With cheap, I mean 1000 - 1500 Baht, as it will be used once and then never again.

 

I read the reviews on Lazada, and however they mostly seem positive regarding the functioning, most complain about they are delivered without a manual and not that easy to assemble.

 

So if anyone has a recommendation for one of those cheap chainsaws, please post it here.

 

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Why a chainsaw? If the trees are small a bow saw will be enough.
 

6126571F-B357-473B-8410-3C0F6B3675FE.jpeg.8e043c7a5473bbc5555a5b5074201139.jpeg

Any chainsaw that is as cheap as you want will be of very low quality.

 

you can use an angle grinder attachment, longer bars are available.
 

A14DC157-35BD-443B-9BFA-8D6B313C531D.jpeg.2479afcddd712a3f685216243d3a02c4.jpeg

 

or ask a local to do it for you

Edited by sometimewoodworker
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11 minutes ago, Yorkshire Tea said:

Thanks, that is what I'm looking for, though I see 1 review that says this.

 

Only 4 stars, as the oil reservoir continues to leak onto chain when finished use, & no protective cover for chain. Ordered cover from elsewhere, hope it fits.

 

You have similar issue?

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1 minute ago, Susco said:

Thanks, that is what I'm looking for, though I see 1 review that says this.

 

Only 4 stars, as the oil reservoir continues to leak onto chain when finished use, & no protective cover for chain. Ordered cover from elsewhere, hope it fits.

 

You have similar issue?

You need to put some oil in the reservoir to lubricate the chain.  I just put a minimal amount in, & keep the chainsaw in a plastic bag when not in use.  I saw this problem with other cheap chainsaws when I was searching on Lazada.

 

If you don't have a lot of cutting, I would recommend a bow saw.  Available at any hardware store.

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4 minutes ago, Yorkshire Tea said:

You need to put some oil in the reservoir to lubricate the chain.  I just put a minimal amount in, & keep the chainsaw in a plastic bag when not in use.  I saw this problem with other cheap chainsaws when I was searching on Lazada.

 

If you don't have a lot of cutting, I would recommend a bow saw.  Available at any hardware store.

I have a bow saw and cut the trees for the most part already. It are plumerias that cut quite easy, but some places not easy to handle a bow saw because to narrow and bow saw get stuck.

 

Those trees are old and have lots of branches, and me lazy, hence the search for a cheap chainsaw.

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3 minutes ago, IvorBiggun2 said:

 

 

Agreed. Somchai would do it easily in a few hours for about 3-400 Baht. 

Maybe Somchai in Nakhonowhere, but near Pattaya Somchai doesn't leave his hammock for that price

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I notice that around 1700 - 1800 there are petrol driven chainsaws available, with hundreds of 5 star reviews.

 

Would a 2T chainsaw be a better choice for my job, as they make about 7500 RPM while the electric make only 400 RPM, or doesn't that matter?

 

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/bonto-115-085-i451182040-s833562079.html?spm=a2o4m.searchlist.bestshown_1.4.786a6457b9jYKA&search=1

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16 hours ago, Susco said:

Thanks, that is what I'm looking for, though I see 1 review that says this.

 

Only 4 stars, as the oil reservoir continues to leak onto chain when finished use, & no protective cover for chain. Ordered cover from elsewhere, hope it fits.

 

You have similar issue?

For the extra money the gas powered one would be better? Unless you already have the many metres of extension cord already? 

 

But agreed if you are not a gear head and are not willing to tune the carburettor then yes go electric. Even it it means buying loads of extension cord. 

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4 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

For the extra money the gas powered one would be better? Unless you already have the many metres of extension cord already? 

 

But agreed if you are not a gear head and are not willing to tune the carburettor then yes go electric. Even it it means buying loads of extension cord. 

Thanks I have the extension cord already, as I use it for the electric trimmer, and have outdoor electrical plugs on each wall of my house.

 

Does the RPM have anything to do with how fast it will cut?

 

The electric chainsaw Yorkshire tea linked to is quoted as 700 Watt, and however it seems to a very popular item, other chainsaws in the same price range are quoted as 2000 Watt.

 

Of course, with Lazada you never know which spec are correct as they just suck something out of their thumb, but what are your thoughts about the power.

 

Both the 700 and 2000 Watt saw are quoted at 400 Rpm.

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12 hours ago, Susco said:

I notice that around 1700 - 1800 there are petrol driven chainsaws available, with hundreds of 5 star reviews.

 

Would a 2T chainsaw be a better choice for my job, as they make about 7500 RPM while the electric make only 400 RPM, or doesn't that matter?

 

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/bonto-115-085-i451182040-s833562079.html?spm=a2o4m.searchlist.bestshown_1.4.786a6457b9jYKA&search=1

If I was you I wouldn't buy a 2-stroke chainsaw. I had one and it was nothing but trouble. I would go electric if I was you. I also like the bow saw for small to medium jobs.

Edited by Mutt Daeng
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My wood cutting small saw was 32cc and 1.8Kw (2.5hp in old money). If you are only doing pruning and only once I wouldn't get (pardon the pun) hung up on rpm. Small angle grinders run at about 10,000 rpm and gas powered devices need rpm to develop power. 

 

☠️Just a note. The biggest danger from using a chainsaw is kickback, when the tip of a moving chain touches something. So keep the tip well away from anything.   

 

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4 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

My wood cutting small saw was 32cc and 1.8Kw (2.5hp in old money). If you are only doing pruning and only once I wouldn't get (pardon the pun) hung up on rpm. Small angle grinders run at about 10,000 rpm and gas powered devices need rpm to develop power. 

 

☠️Just a note. The biggest danger from using a chainsaw is kickback, when the tip of a moving chain touches something. So keep the tip well away from anything.   

 

The biggest danger is not using correct technique, protective equipment and knowing where the bar/chain will go once it clears the wood. There are occasions where you should use the tip.

 

For a beginner, always use the bottom of the bar (never the top) always have the engine in contact with the wood, always use gloves, eye and hearing protection, always wear boots, long trousers and long sleeved shirts, never allow spectators within 2 metres while the engine is running.

 

Remember that a 5mm slice through you is extremely difficult to repair without permanent problems.

Edited by sometimewoodworker
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22 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Why a chainsaw? If the trees are small a bow saw will be enough.
 

6126571F-B357-473B-8410-3C0F6B3675FE.jpeg.8e043c7a5473bbc5555a5b5074201139.jpeg

Any chainsaw that is as cheap as you want will be of very low quality.

 

you can use an angle grinder attachment, longer bars are available.
 

A14DC157-35BD-443B-9BFA-8D6B313C531D.jpeg.2479afcddd712a3f685216243d3a02c4.jpeg

 

or ask a local to do it for you

Do not buy one of those chainsaws you attach to an angle grinder,

I bought one,it arrived from China,I assembled it,the very next day

a poster on here reported what had happened to his mate,using one,

he posted a picture, his mate had cut his leg through to the bone,

it had kicked back and came out of his hand, and most angle grinders

to not have auto cut off,just a push button on/off.

 

After seeing the picture I dismantled it,and turned it back to angle grinder.

regards Worgeordie

 

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3 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

There are occasions where you should use the tip.

There are? 

He is pruning, not plunge cutting.

 

Some saw/blades come with guards to prevent the use of the tip.

tip-guard_689x299.png

 

 

ryobi-gas-chainsaws-ry3714-64_1000.jpg

 

As long as the OP understands the danger. 

Edited by VocalNeal
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7 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

There are? 

He is pruning, not plunge cutting.

No I'm cutting down the trees as I got tired of collecting the leafs every day.

 

Branches have been removed already, but from the ground up each tree has several thick trunks.

 

Edit : I looked up plunge cutting

Edited by Susco
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2 hours ago, Susco said:

No I'm cutting down the trees as I got tired of collecting the leafs every day.

 

Branches have been removed already, but from the ground up each tree has several thick trunks.

 

Edit : I looked up plunge cutting

Ok. Can they fall easily with no danger of damaging anything?  But this does change things a bit. If they are thick trees then although you don't need the bar to be longer than the diameter of the tree, it does help. 

Have a surf for details of felling a tree and pay attention to direction. It is not always possible to make a tree fall exactly where you want it if the tree is leaning in a certain direction. You cannot always overcome gravity.  

All this being said plumerias look more like over grown bushes. The first one will be the worst so do the easiest one first to get some confidence.

 

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12 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

There are? 

He is pruning, not plunge cutting.

 

Some saw/blades come with guards to prevent the use of the tip.

tip-guard_689x299.png

 

 

ryobi-gas-chainsaws-ry3714-64_1000.jpg

 

As long as the OP understands the danger. 

Those look like training wheels on a bicycle, useful for beginners but removable later, so not a bad idea.

10 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

If they are thick trees then although you don't need the bar to be longer than the diameter of the tree, it does help. 


The trees I learned on were large enough that there were no bars easily available that were more than a bit over ½ the diameter of them, (Dutch elm disease time in the U.K.) since the direction of fall was critical given the height of them I learned a lot very quickly.

 

When I later was cutting down / coppicing Hornbeam and Beach the majority of them were smaller than the bars, I found that the early training was very useful. Those who learned on the Hornbeam and Beach made a lot of beginner mistakes. You can learn good practice with big bars on small trees but you can easily make mistakes and not learn.

 

My current 2 stroke saw has a 12” bar as standard.

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I used to cut Birch for firewood for my warm air furnace. Usually about 12 in plus dia. I had a Stihl 010AV small 32cc saw with 14 in 3/8 bar 

 

 

Gem of a saw vroom, vroom. 

 

But then I got wise and bought a truck load. Surprising how small a load looks on the truck but quite different when it has been dumped on the ground in the yard.????  Tip of the blade to the back of the engine 22 inches perfect for gauging the logs for bucking.

 

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