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Buying an SUV in Thailand. What to check for?


thaitanic

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18 hours ago, Lacessit said:

Correct. No coolants are acid, it is circulating through metal passages and acids attack metal.

 

Sorry I should have said acidic, and that only the top and bottom tanks are plastic, BUT the core of the new rads are an aluminum, the problem occurs where the tubes at the top are fixed with what i do not know (alloy tube to plastic tank) right under the top hose fitting, where the water enters at the highest temp. here is the sticker, i attached to the car, that came with the new radiator. 

IMG_1631.JPG.0d55a4d8446d95cde63fdf7c970fa21a.JPG

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4 minutes ago, brianthainess said:

Sorry I should have said acidic, and that only the top and bottom tanks are plastic, BUT the core of the new rads are an aluminum, the problem occurs where the tubes at the top are fixed with what i do not know (alloy tube to plastic tank)

 

 

The alloy core has a rubber o-ring and small "fins" that are crimped over the edge of the plastic tank to secure it.

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On 11/28/2020 at 7:04 PM, kenk24 said:

They got you babe... 

 

There are no negatives to doing rourine servicing as shortened intervals. In Thailand labour rates are inexpensive. So why not? If one so wishes.  

I believe in most owners manuals it states something about shortened intervals if driven in harsh condions.  BKK stop / go traffic?

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4 minutes ago, Techno Viking said:

 

The alloy core has a rubber o-ring and small "fins" that are crimped over the edge of the plastic tank to secure it.

thanks. So i guess the hot coolant rushing in from the top hose must attack the rubber o-rings at this point. Unless the after sales rad (from japan) cores are only maybe glued/ resin in.

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Be careful mixing coolant brands.

Following a top hose replacement I topped up with supermarket coolant.

In 2 weeks the Al cores started leaking due to a reaction with the original Chev coolant and the cheap coolant.

New Corvette radiator was not inexpensive.

Best to flush and fill completely with new coolant, set some aside for top ups if required.

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Just now, MAF666 said:

Be careful mixing coolant brands.

Following a top hose replacement I topped up with supermarket coolant.

In 2 weeks the Al cores started leaking due to a reaction with the original Chev coolant and the cheap coolant.

New Corvette radiator was not inexpensive.

Best to flush and fill completely with new coolant, set some aside for top ups if required.

 

Agree 100%, I buy top up coolant from the dealership.

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2 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

 

There are no negatives to doing rourine servicing as shortened intervals. In Thailand labour rates are inexpensive. So why not? If one so wishes.  

I believe in most owners manuals it states something about shortened intervals if driven in harsh condions.  BKK stop / go traffic?

up to you... my vehicle calls for regular oil changes/maintenance at 15k... yes, diesel.. I let the dealer take care of it... makes my life easier... 

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Thanks for all the replies, especially the very helpful post from @Migrosmarket ???? .

 

A couple of "what to check?" YouTube videos mentioned an OBF2 scanner, so I ordered one of these. This app looks like a good bet to use it with. Anyone here used something similar in the scenario of buying a vehicle? Not sure if it's realistic or not.

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Some years ago I was riding in the back seat of a mates 4 door pickup and I could see the road through a gap between the door and the door frame :w00t: 

 

Also one of his headlights was way out of align and blinding all oncoming traffic. 

 

Obviously it had been in an accident but he didn't seem to notice.

 

One way to check if a vehicle has possibly been in an accident is to get a sheet of A4 paper and place it in the top side and bottom of the door between the door and the frame and with the door closed try to pull the paper out.

 

With the door closed on the paper you should just be able to pull the paper out without tearing. If the paper comes out too easily or is stuck and won't come out without tearing there could be a problem with the alignment of the body or frame.

 

Not foolproof but a simple test that will show up an obvious problem.

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  • 3 weeks later...

We did some searching for an engineer in Bangkok who could check over a used Everest, and in the end we used this guy: Tel: 061-828-5558 Line ID: @scan2car Facebook: รับดูรถยนต์มือสอง - Scan2Car Website: https://www.scan2car.net/

 

He charged us 2300 Baht, met us at the dealer, and was there for a couple of hours. He picked up that some panels had been painted, did an OBD2 check, and reassured us about the chassis, transmission & engine. He missed a few of the small things like the wash/wipe but overall we were satisfied with his service. He said it was the 3rd Everest he'd inspected that day.

 

Alternatively he will fit as many cars into 1 day as possible for 4500 Baht. We even read on Pantip that someone gave him a list of 10 cars and he checked round them all in a day and told them which were worth considering and which not, without the buyer even having to go himself.

 

Anyway, apart from that, I have been using this checklist for my own checks. Not perfect or totally comprehensive, but maybe it will be useful for someone else:

PAPERWORK/BACKGROUND

  • Logbook (ownership)(“lem tabian rot”) showing how many registrations

  • Chassis numbers should match on chassis/door frame/behind windscreen/logbook.

  • Service history book with stamps at correct intervals?

  • Warranty: Existing document. Any future warranty offered?

  • Owner's Manual

  • Ask about previous owner. Why is it for sale? How long has dealer had it?

  • Registered in Bangkok?

  • Tax certificate / CTPL ("Por Ro Bo")

  • Google car owner's phone number to make sure the car was never rented

EXTERIOR

  • Check ground under car for leaks

  • Color matching of panels (in good light)

  • Even alignment of panels. Uniform gaps. Look along sides at fine angle.

  • Scratches (minor scratches can indicate it HASN'T been recently resprayed)

  • Paint thickness tester: Thicker paint implies panel has been sprayed.

  • Chrome on top of door handles etc.. Corrosion?

  • Check roof

  • Aerial

  • Light lenses dry and not misted

  • Brake discs wear/evenness

  • Depth of brake pads left

  • Tyres (turn wheel out to inspect)

    • Tread depth

    • Even wear (uneven wear can mean bad alignment)

    • Damage

    • Are they all same brand/model?

UNDERNEATH

  • Exhaust condition

  • No ripples etc. in panels, especially around spare wheel

  • Chassis legs straight

  • Signs of overspray indicating respray? Original Everest chassis has white labels showing jack points and a barcode.

  • Original bolt heads should be painted

  • Spare wheel condition

ENGINE

  • Corrosion? Cleanliness?

  • Radiator coolant: Not just water. Blue. Correct level.

  • Oil level: Clean appearance. Not smell burnt. Correct level.

  • Transmission fluid: Clean appearance. Not smell burnt. Correct level.

  • Brake fluid: Should be full. Low level means worn brakes.

  • Condition of hoses

  • Condition of bonnet insulation

  • Fan belt quite tight?

  • Strange noises when running?

INTERIOR

  • Wear/damage on seats

  • Wear on pedal rubbers

  • Wear/dampness/stains on carpets

  • Pull up carpets. Any sign of repairs, damp, corrsion, replacement panels?

  • Paper test on doors to check alignment (should pull paper out of seals with a bit of effort)

  • Seatbelts

  • Seat operation (inc rear)

  • Tailgate operation

  • Steering wheel operation

  • Correct tools (jack, wheelnut spanner)

  • Dashcam(s)?

  • Window film? Condition? Too dark/light? Under warranty?

ELECTRONICS

  • OBS2 check if have the widget/app. Take great care!

  • Any warning lights on dash?

  • Lights – indicators, side lights, dip, full beam, hazard lights, fog lights.

  • All windows operation

  • All mirrors operation

  • Sunroof operation

  • Wash/wipe front/rear

  • Air conditioning / heating operation

  • Entertainment system / loudspeakers

  • Satnav

  • Parking cameras

  • Horn

  • Interior lights

  • 12V power outlets

  • USB outlets

  • 230V power outlet

  • Locking / alarm operation

TEST DRIVE

  • Listen for noises with fans and radio off

  • Make sure car stays in straight line with hands off wheel

  • Make sure doesn't pull to one side when braking hard

  • Floor it and make sure acceleration is good

  • Make sure temperature is stable at about 90 degrees

  • Test self-parking works

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On 11/27/2020 at 10:11 AM, Techno Viking said:

 

hahahahaha, good luck finding a seller that will let you remove the cam cover to inspect the valvetrain !!

If you were looking for a Ford Escape, 3 liter model. registered July 2014, I am selling mine.Bought it from Ford Leasing, Bangkok,  in April  2017,with 54,000 KM on it. Odometer now reads 120,000 KM. I installed LPG by a registered installer in Surat. New rubbers, new battery. serviced at Ford Surat. anyone interested, pm me for details.

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On 11/28/2020 at 4:39 PM, Techno Viking said:

 

Wouldn't Ford staff tell people to change their oil in accordance to the owners manual specified service intervals  ?

yep. I had topped up my oil after a few long trips. a few times. Told Ford to do full service but not to change oil. Later, I discovered that they do not stamp the service book, unless the oil was changed. now I let them change the oil, as I want a complete service record. Keep all  my bills, as well. Ford complete a comprehensive check list, which they give you a copy of.

 

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