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Can a mechanic tell me I'm dreaming


DrJack54

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It's difficult to describe this issue. Perhaps just in my mind.

So 2003 honda civic. Have posted previously re leak in power steering rack. That was replaced. All good. Also replaced was value cover gasket and other seals.

 

So now to try and describe current 'thing' 

Car runs fine. However when I'm driving and then then take foot off the pedal the car seems to react more than cars I've driven before including this one. Has a feeling bit like hand break has been VERY gently applied. I realize that is a very vague description. 

I vaguely recall that a car I owned in Oz had a button think it was called "power shift" big V8 car and (from memory) made the car very responsive. Of course a little civic would not have that option. Hope that does not confuse things even more.

Any thoughts or do I just need a chill pill.

Any ideas appreciated.

 

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The car's about 18 years old so don't expect it to be as lively. Is it an auto? Could be the transmission. If it's a manual, slip it into 'angel gear' just before you lift the foot of the gas to see if the same 'slowing' occurs?

 

PS: Do NOT slip an auto trans into 'N' while at speed!!!

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14 minutes ago, NanLaew said:

The car's about 18 years old so don't expect it to be as lively. Is it an auto? Could be the transmission. If it's a manual, slip it into 'angel gear' just before you lift the foot of the gas to see if the same 'slowing' occurs?

 

PS: Do NOT slip an auto trans into 'N' while at speed!!!

Thanks.

Yes the car is old however it has only 110k.

Before folk advise me that the milage can be altered, true, however they must have renewed everything in the car as it's clearly not old Kms wise.

Yes the car is auto and correct I would never put a car into N while in motion.

As to responsiveness, the car if anything is very responsive (to my surprise) 

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So my issue in my OP is still there. The issue with going to a mechanic is the language barrier. However looks like I need to do exactly that.

Can anyone tell what is the "shift lock" left top of pic. It does not appear to have what I would imagine is push button to turn on/off.

Also today I noticed that when shift is placed into D3 it does not illuminate on dash. 

 

 

IMG_20210215_150622.jpg

Edited by DrJack54
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1 hour ago, DrJack54 said:

Can anyone tell what is the "shift lock" left top of pic

Many years since had an automatic, but from what I can remember shift lock prevents the gears from shifting up and down in certain situations.

 

Examples would be when gong up a hill and the car shifts to a higher gear but can't manage so drops down to a lower one again and keep doing that, or when towing or when or on slippery surface where you want to stay a low gear for better control.

 

Memory ain't what it used to be could be totally wrong  :whistling:

Edited by Daffy D
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36 minutes ago, Daffy D said:

Many years since had an automatic, but from what I can remember shift lock prevents the gears from shifting up and down in certain situations.

 

Examples would be when gong up a hill and the car shifts to a higher gear but can't manage so drops down to a lower one again and keep doing that, or when towing or when or on slippery surface where you want to stay a low gear for better control.

 

Memory ain't what it used to be could be totally wrong  :whistling:

The pic is not clear. There is no switch or button etc. Just small rectangular 'hole' 

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14 minutes ago, DrJack54 said:
53 minutes ago, Daffy D said:

Many years since had an automatic, but from what I can remember shift lock prevents the gears from shifting up and down in certain situations.

 

Examples would be when gong up a hill and the car shifts to a higher gear but can't manage so drops down to a lower one again and keep doing that, or when towing or when or on slippery surface where you want to stay a low gear for better control.

 

Memory ain't what it used to be could be totally wrong  :whistling:

Expand  

The pic is not clear. There is no switch or button etc. Just small rectangular 'hole' 

 

Yes, Daffy's wrong.

 

It's where you stick the ignition key in to be able to shift the stick to 'N' AFTER you have parked 'P', turned off the engine and removed the key. The safety interlocks prevent you moving the stick after you've removed the key.

 

Parking garage attendants will LOVE you if you use this when double parking as they will be able to push you car around to let otherwise blocked-in cars out

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27 minutes ago, NanLaew said:

Yes, Daffy's wrong.

 

It's where you stick the ignition key in to be able to shift the stick to 'N' AFTER you have parked 'P', turned off the engine and removed the key. The safety interlocks prevent you moving the stick after you've removed the key.

 

Parking garage attendants will LOVE you if you use this when double parking as they will be able to push you car around to let otherwise blocked-in cars out

Ah! Well don't remember having that feature in my day :guitar:

 

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3 hours ago, Daffy D said:

Ah! Well don't remember having that feature in my day :guitar:

 

 

It's a weird one Daffy as I hadn't seen either it until we bought a Honda CR-V about 14 years ago. Luckily, the ignition key fitted perfectly.

 

However, I have bought a couple of Ford Rangers that have this button blanked-off so that you can't get at it. I guess maybe because they are for the export market to a country where disabling the stick lock function is illegal? I bought an after-market plastic button and bezel on eBay and after removing the blanking plug, inserted this button to enable it so now parking attendants can push my sports lorry around... if they're up for it!

Edited by NanLaew
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On 2/13/2021 at 8:28 PM, bunnydrops said:

Does the car have overdrive? If you are used to driving in overdrive and it not in overdrive, you would feel that engine drag when you take your foot off the gas.

So week later I thought for sure your on the money. After consulting Mr Google I discovered that if the honda civic was being driven in D3 then the car drives through 1-2 then 3 and stays there. That of course gives feeling (when foot off gas) a drag. 

Same as when driving down hilly roads using lower gear. Also the D3 light not lighting up on dash even when placed in that gear.

So the the car is now with mechanic and sadly has dismissed my theory.

Should find out tomorrow what the issue is.

Thanks

 

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I don't understand why anyone would not normally drive an automatic vehicle in D, the other gear selector settings either hold the transmission in a low gear or prevent the normal up shifting, these should only be used when road conditions call for this, usually going up or down very steep inclines.

Driving the vehicle in D3 will restrict the transmission to only change up to 3rd gear not 4th, this will in turn result in higher engine braking when the accelerator pedal is released.  

The not shifting an automatic into N is true if you are flying along at 50 kph as this can cause damage due to lack of oil circulation within the transmission, but going from Drive to Neutral (Neutral not Park) at 10-15 kph will not cause problems and will rule out any other reasons for the binding you are feeling, just allow the vehicle to stop by itself or use the brakes before selecting drive.

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1 hour ago, Adiudon said:

I don't understand why anyone would not normally drive an automatic vehicle in D,

I always drive in D. Especially as I'm driving in Bangkok.

The latest is that the mechanic has ordered transmission oil from Honda. 

I felt that the car was locked in D3 even though the shift is in correct position and light on dash indicates D. This would explain the drag when foot off the accelerator and sensitive when placed on accelerator.

Also strange that if shift placed in D3 position the light on dash does not illuminate.

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If one was sticking in D3, the engine rpm will be higher as it tops out on the lower ratio gears and is prohibited from up-shifting. There's no mention that the top or normal speed has dropped off, just the 'drag' when off-throttle.

 

Good move on the transmission fluid flush though. Modern transmissions have quite a long service interval (mine is 195,000 km) but maybe the transmission in the OP's 18 year old car with only 110,000 km still needs one? Doing some Googling, Honda's 'standard' recommendation for transmission oil change is 145,000 km (from 95,000 miles).

 

Good luck.

Edited by NanLaew
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On 2/15/2021 at 3:33 PM, DrJack54 said:

So my issue in my OP is still there. The issue with going to a mechanic is the language barrier. However looks like I need to do exactly that.

Can anyone tell what is the "shift lock" left top of pic. It does not appear to have what I would imagine is push button to turn on/off.

Also today I noticed that when shift is placed into D3 it does not illuminate on dash. 

 

 

IMG_20210215_150622.jpg

You put the key in there to shift into neutral when you are parked. I had a 2004 2.0 civic. It had the same shift lock.

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If you are driving at 100 km/h, shif between D and D3. If functioning normally, the revs will jump up when changing to D3. My civic would do 160km/h in D3 at the redline. I recall it automatically changing to D after that (but not 100% sure on that). I sold that car so can't check. 

Be wary about auto gear oil change. I did that to my civic because it hadn't been changd for several years. I should have left it alone, as that caused my gearbox gasket to leak - it could have be due to the loosening of the gunk around the gasket from the new oil. Cost 5K to repair as they had to life the engine/gearbox to repair it. 

 

Even at low kms, the age can cause problems, especially on rubber parts and if past owners don't get the 6 monthly service. 

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5 hours ago, DrJack54 said:

I always drive in D. Especially as I'm driving in Bangkok.

The latest is that the mechanic has ordered transmission oil from Honda. 

I felt that the car was locked in D3 even though the shift is in correct position and light on dash indicates D. This would explain the drag when foot off the accelerator and sensitive when placed on accelerator.

Also strange that if shift placed in D3 position the light on dash does not illuminate.

It could well be cured with a transmission fluid & filter change, a build up of metallic particles can cause all types of problems, the next course of action would be changing the solenoids or at the very least removing and cleaning them.

Hopefully the new fluid cures the fault, with the low mileage of the car I doubt it will be anything major, if anything it sounds like it could do with some harsh driving, especially if it spends most of its life in heavy traffic.

 

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3 minutes ago, Adiudon said:

It could well be cured with a transmission fluid & filter change, a build up of metallic particles can cause all types of problems, the next course of action would be changing the solenoids or at the very least removing and cleaning them.

Hopefully the new fluid cures the fault, with the low mileage of the car I doubt it will be anything major, if anything it sounds like it could do with some harsh driving, especially if it spends most of its life in heavy traffic.

 

I actually think you match with what I have googled. Seems the mechanics first 'go to' option was to replace transmission fluid. He maintains that it must be the honda product and that's also what I have read.

I more I thought about the drag feeling just reminds me of the car being stuck in D3. 

Also the light for D3 not working seems strange. Anyway will update when fluid is changed.

Thanks for your input.

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3 hours ago, DrJack54 said:

Clearly not based on mechanical expertise.

 

This from someone that can't tell the difference between an oil leak and condensate from the air-conditioner.

 

I fixed my own cars for thirty years and worked in all levels of industrial maintenance for forty years. 

 

Had you taken my advice in your oil leak thread you wouldn't have flushed your money down the toilet on valve-cover gaskets. 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

 

This from someone that can't tell the difference between an oil leak and condensate from the air-conditioner.

 

I fixed my own cars for thirty years and worked in all levels of industrial maintenance for forty years. 

 

Had you taken my advice in your oil leak thread you wouldn't have flushed your money down the toilet on valve-cover gaskets. 

 

 

First up it had a small oil leak and the mechanic replaced valve cover gasket. I suggested steering fluid as it was red. As leak continue he replaced power steering rack.

After that there was still a leak whick  initially was oil (from previous leak)  and condensation.

Now the current issue is transmission.

I stated from outset I have zero knowledge of cars. 

Your useless post in this thread is just that.

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