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New Tires needed?


pedro01

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On 4/2/2021 at 6:43 PM, steve187 said:

in the old days an escort xr3i, would have got through a set as quick, its a sports car so expect the tyre wear, a new set is called for very soon and a lump of wood under the gas pedal, that should make then last longer

 

I worked at a tire shop in the 80's and these younger guys would bring in their high end ford escorts, one tire was the donut and the other was showing cords. When I explained they took very expensive tires, no optional cheap ones, they would just hang their head and leave. They had no idea how much their fun had cost them.

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Go to Cockpit.

They will offer you a choice of 3 different tyres at differing prices, make your choice

then they will do a wheel alignment once fitted & wheel balancing.

Take about 80 minutes.

You will be amazed how well the car drives now & double the tyre life (looking at that old tyre)

I am in no way associated with them, just always have very good service

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12,000km and you need to change your tyres? I'm shocked ????

 

I never had MB, but, I had 2 Porsche (911 coupe, 911 convertible) when I lived in the UK.

 

I used them as my normal car (commuting M4 corridor to London, doing business trips within the UK and parts of Europe, holidays in Continental Europe: Belgium, France, Germany, Switzerland. The Netherlands).

 

I had a look @ my "Porsche diary" (Excel spreadsheet)

 

Average annual mileage: 25,000 miles = 40,000 km

 

Types of tyres: 

Front: 225/40/ZR18

Rear: 265/35/ZR18

 

The drive and tyre's life expectancy vary a lot:

* Best drive overall: Pirelli (very soft tyre)

* Shortest tyre's life: Pirelli (10,000 miles = 16,000 km)

* Longest tyre's life: Continental (Rear: 16,000 miles = 25,600 km, Front:  29,000 miles = 46,400 km)

* Worst drive: Continental (it was the 1st mount on my 996 convertible)

* Best balanced (drive and tyre's life): Michelin and then Bridgestone (14,000 miles = 22,400 km)

 

Even with a "heavy right foot", tyres should last longer than 12,000 km. May be the tyres delivered with car were old, maybe the tyre' setting wasn't that accurate...

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+1 on Fab above;

 

Iv owned Mercs (In UK) for last 20+ years, Pirelli/Contis/Mich are all Original Fitment on various MB vehicles

 

My advice is check out Mercedes Benz Thai Forums see what they are saying about tyre fitment in LOS (Temp/Humidity etc plays a large part) If OE - original equipment is Conti on your model (It shows this in your cars manual/factory sheet stuck in back is all in codes but a quick google is the key) and you was getting a deceant range out of them Id stick with them however; the range you said is pants (mercs are heavy cars and prone to wear suspension parts (sway arms, bushes, springs etc) but you should get better range (milage out of them than you show above)

 

I had Continentals on an E-Class and they was great... My current Merc in UK is on OE Pirelli P7s and they are great too, a lot of mercs you cannot Rotate as some have mentioned in this thread as they are 'Cross Matched' meaning the fronts and rears are differant sizes (also note anyone new to MBs a lot of models if you put a steel spare on a vehicle with alloy wheels, they have a set of shorter studs you must use, if you attempt to use the alloy wheel studs then they will catch the brake calipers as alloy studs can be longer than steel wheel studs) so beware if the spare has a set of studs thats the reason (obviously a lot of new models have a space saver or even a Tire Slime kit with pump) Cheap skates!!

 

Another lil tip people find a short legnth of alloy about 8" long with a bit of Knurled hatching at one end and a thread at the other in the tool kit and wonder whats is it for? This is a centering tool so when you come to mount a wheel you stick this tool in on of the holes first to aligned the wheel up to the hub, put four studs in then take this bar out and put last in, hardly anyone uses them and lots have no idea what they are when they see them lol

 

Pic 1 & 3 the tyres are worn and ready to change, look like they have shoulder wear to me (pics a bit poor mind) If putting new Boots on always get it Tracked and aligend, if roads you use are rough then should get tracking done yearly depending on your milage.

 

My advice is check local Merc Forums first see what they are running on similar cars... If you buy budget Wang Kang rubbish tyres then they will wear out in no time and your stopping distances in an emergency could cost you your life. Brakes and Tyres dont skimp on them, buy quality...

Edited by Lokie
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  • 4 months later...
On 8/23/2021 at 2:01 PM, AlexRRR said:

Common for guys to scrub out a pair of performance rubber at 20,000ks, id say your a drag racer.....i on the other hand am well known for getting 40,000 out of performance rubber on a performance car....

You must drive like Miss Daisy!

 

Others with same car seem to have same issue.

 

I guess it's down to power mostly to the front until the AWD kicks in.

 

385 horses to those 2 poor fronts - I guess I am guilty of using those horses.

Edited by pedro01
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18 hours ago, pedro01 said:

You must drive like Miss Daisy!

 

Others with same car seem to have same issue.

 

I guess it's down to power mostly to the front until the AWD kicks in.

 

385 horses to those 2 poor fronts - I guess I am guilty of using those horses.

Nope, i just dont sprint off at the lights, i all so pump them up hard, i dont run around in big engine cars though in my younger days i did, current car is a Golf GTI, previous was a Cooper S before that a BMW coupe 3L i get min of 40,000 ks from my rubber.

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8 hours ago, AlexRRR said:

Nope, i just dont sprint off at the lights, i all so pump them up hard, i dont run around in big engine cars though in my younger days i did, current car is a Golf GTI, previous was a Cooper S before that a BMW coupe 3L i get min of 40,000 ks from my rubber.

Not recommended. This leads to a harsh ride, premature central band wear and poor emergency stopping capabilities in the wet.

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1 hour ago, Lancashirelad said:

Not recommended. This leads to a harsh ride, premature central band wear and poor emergency stopping capabilities in the wet.

Agreed.

There is a reason that the OEM recommends tire pressures.

I run mine a little less than recommended usually - experiment and see what works best for me. Have an IR temp gauge so takes seconds to check hot pressures.

Hiway car gets new boots at 50% wear. But I run it fast.

Back in my bike racing days we went by the 10% rule - diff between cold and hot should be 10%.

Tires come a LONG way since then

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8 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

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When riding I find it is guys in Vios, City, Almera, Swift, etc - all the econoboxes - who drive the worst - Hi speed, weaving in and out, pass you with no room. on a solid line, uphill around corners.

Wanna Be fast car owners

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Homework my friend. The above car is virtually hand built on the assembly line of the now defunct LFA. It is a homologation special for Toyota WRC but still has a 5 year/100,000 warranty. 

 

A box yes but hardly econo.

 

 

Edited by VocalNeal
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On 8/30/2021 at 8:12 AM, AlexRRR said:

Nope, i just dont sprint off at the lights, i all so pump them up hard, i dont run around in big engine cars though in my younger days i did, current car is a Golf GTI, previous was a Cooper S before that a BMW coupe 3L i get min of 40,000 ks from my rubber.

You have my commiserations on the Golf.

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