Jump to content

50mm F1.8 Or 55-200mm F4-5.6 Vr


Mozikillah

Recommended Posts

Used primarily for portraits..!?

And to those who has the 50mm 1.8, is it too much trouble to manually focus, since i have a D40x??

The other one is the 55-200mm VR, the aperture isnt spectacular, as it's f4-f5.6, but as its a telephoto, It would be able to produce considerably shallower depth of field than the 18-55 kit lens that came with my D40x..

Which lens would be better for good, shallow depth of field for portraits..? ! :o

Thanks,

Simon

Edited by Mozikillah
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Used primarily for portraits..!?

And to those who has the 50mm 1.8, is it too much trouble to manually focus, since i have a D40x??

The other one is the 55-200mm VR, the aperture isnt spectacular, as it's f4-f5.6, but as its a telephoto, It would be able to produce considerably shallower depth of field than the 18-55 kit lens that came with my D40x..

Which lens would be better for good, shallow depth of field for portraits..? ! :o

Thanks,

Simon

You can probably shoot at about 135 f4 on the zoom. Remember focal length and distance to subject has as much, if not more influence than aperture

in creating background "blur" or "bokeh".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bokeh

Buy the telephoto. :D

RAZZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Used primarily for portraits..!?

And to those who has the 50mm 1.8, is it too much trouble to manually focus, since i have a D40x??

The other one is the 55-200mm VR, the aperture isnt spectacular, as it's f4-f5.6, but as its a telephoto, It would be able to produce considerably shallower depth of field than the 18-55 kit lens that came with my D40x..

Which lens would be better for good, shallow depth of field for portraits..? ! :o

Thanks,

Simon

You can probably shoot at about 135 f4 on the zoom. Remember focal length and distance to subject has as much, if not more influence than aperture

in creating background "blur" or "bokeh".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bokeh

Buy the telephoto. :D

RAZZ

I'd pick the 50mm. :D or the 60mm or even the 105mm. :D

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another point to consider is it worth buying any Nikon lenses not designed for full frame cameras?

Cheers

Of course it is. All Nikon DSLRs are DX except the new and very expensive D3. There's no indication that Nikon will be dropping the DX format anytime soon, especially as the D300 is out at the same time as the D3. You'd be foolish to buy a $5000 camera and slap a $200 lens on it, so if a user wants to go full frame they can get full frame lenses later.

As for which lens, I'd go for the zoom. It'd prove more versatile that the prime, and I would get annoyed with manual focus out and about. If you're only gonna do studio shoots on a tripod then maybe manual focus would be alright. The D40X has a pretty small viewfinder, but at least you still get the focus confirmation light.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a 28-70mm on my Canon 40D for portraits,

but looking at the exif info I find that in most shots I instinctively

choosen around 50mm as the focal length.

Therefore I would choose the 50mm as the f1.8

will give you more flexibility to shoot in low light without the flash.

It is probably a better lens at full aperture than the zoom will be.

Remember 50mm equates to 80mm due to the smaller frame size,

however the depth of field is determined by the real focal length.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another point to consider is it worth buying any Nikon lenses not designed for full frame cameras?

Cheers

Of course it is. All Nikon DSLRs are DX except the new and very expensive D3. There's no indication that Nikon will be dropping the DX format anytime soon, especially as the D300 is out at the same time as the D3. You'd be foolish to buy a $5000 camera and slap a $200 lens on it, so if a user wants to go full frame they can get full frame lenses later.

As for which lens, I'd go for the zoom. It'd prove more versatile that the prime, and I would get annoyed with manual focus out and about. If you're only gonna do studio shoots on a tripod then maybe manual focus would be alright. The D40X has a pretty small viewfinder, but at least you still get the focus confirmation light.

I bought a lot of lenses for film cameras.

They work well with DSLR.

You cannot say the same about DX lenses on Film or full frame DSLR.

The new D3 may or may not be an indication that Nikon will be focusing their attention on full frame. My betting is that they will release a slew of new lenses for full frame.

You'd be foolish to think that price is the sole indicator of the quality of image that can be produced. There are certain conditions where it would be foolish not to use a "throw away" lens.

Your joking about primes aren't you? All my primes have auto focus be they DX or not , Nikon or not.

I think using zoom lenses makes you less aware of composition.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd go for the 50mm 1.8 .

You'll probably get a lot less 'keepers' with that f4 zoom unless you shoot on brite days or use flash.

From Dr Peter Jones MD. FRPS.

I am a Medical Doctor and Anatomist.

Using anything less than 100 mm, causes distortion of the physiogomy (specifically and especially

the nose!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd go for the 50mm 1.8 .

You'll probably get a lot less 'keepers' with that f4 zoom unless you shoot on brite days or use flash.

From Dr Peter Jones MD. FRPS.

I am a Medical Doctor and Anatomist.

Using anything less than 100 mm, causes distortion of the physiogomy (specifically and especially

the nose!)

You cant be serious.. :o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"No bright days in Thailand???? :o

Sorry, but some of the guys above are talking nonsense.

RAZZ"

I agree RAZZ, most days are brite and sunny. That's the problem.

Photographs don't look so great in these conditions. Shadows, high contrast, squint eyes....and you can't get that dreamy blurred background with that aperature.

The best photographs are usually done with morning or late afternoon light or in the shade. That f4 won't cut it.

The 50mm will give excellent portraits by the way.

The 85mm is the best portrait lens in my opinion on digital sensors with a 1.5crop. Equal to 135mm on film cameras.

post-52883-1194216371_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The best photographs are usually done with morning or late afternoon light or in the shade. That f4 won't cut it.

You can't always wait for the light to change... :D

On modern digital cameras you can easily shoot at 800 ISO maybe even 1000.

You can't blow out the background at f5.6 on a 200mm??? :D :D :D

I suggest you get a lens, stand near your subject, shoot, and see what happens :bah:

But ok..we'll agree to differ...I only do it for a living :o:bah:

RAZZ

Edited by RAZZELL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The best photographs are usually done with morning or late afternoon light or in the shade. That f4 won't cut it.

You can't always wait for the light to change... :D

On modern digital cameras you can easily shoot at 800 ISO maybe even 1000.

You can't blow out the background at f5.6 on a 200mm??? :D:D:D

I suggest you get a lens, stand near your subject, shoot, and see what happens :bah:

But ok..we'll agree to differ...I only do it for a living :o:bah:

RAZZ

The OP already has a slow zoom. Are you recommending he get another?

I made the mistake buying a slow zoom when I didn't know what I was doing.

Never take it out of my bag. A waste of money, no?

Edited by PadThaiGuy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The OP already has a slow zoom. Are you recommending he get another?

I made the mistake buying a slow zoom when I didn't know what I was doing.

Never take it out of my bag. A waste of money, no?

The OP doesn't want to shoot nightime football... :D

He wants to shoot portraits...A zoom will give you the flexibility not be "in the face" of your subject (especially if they don't know the photo is being taken),

and will give the "bokeh" he desires.

If he's taking someone's portrait, they don't tend to be trying to run away...Therefore high shutter speeds are academic.

Of course prime lenses are faster and are "pin"...But we're talking about an amateur with limited funds.

But then again I obviously "don't know what I'm doing" :o

RAZZ

P..S Read this...

http://www.togsblog.co.uk/?p=267

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The OP already has a slow zoom. Are you recommending he get another?

I made the mistake buying a slow zoom when I didn't know what I was doing.

Never take it out of my bag. A waste of money, no?

The OP doesn't want to shoot nightime football... :D

He wants to shoot portraits...A zoom will give you the flexibility not be "in the face" of your subject (especially if they don't know the photo is being taken),

and will give the "bokeh" he desires.

If he's taking someone's portrait, they don't tend to be trying to run away...Therefore high shutter speeds are academic.

Of course prime lenses are faster and are "pin"...But we're talking about an amateur with limited funds.

But then again I obviously "don't know what I'm doing" :o

RAZZ

P..S Read this...

http://www.togsblog.co.uk/?p=267

In my experience, successfull people rarely gloat or belittle others.

BUY QUALITY/OWN QUALITY is my advice.

Avoid the cheap zooms.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Moz,

Reading your signature line, it sounds as if you have been bitten by the photography bug.

If you think your interest will survive it will always be a good investment having a collection of prime lenses.

Apart from generally being faster , sharper and having larger apertures available they will also force you to think more about composition and your positioning.

If your just after happy snaps its a different ballgame.

I quite like using the 105 F2.8 Nikkor.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Moz,

Reading your signature line, it sounds as if you have been bitten by the photography bug.

If you think your interest will survive it will always be a good investment having a collection of prime lenses.

Apart from generally being faster , sharper and having larger apertures available they will also force you to think more about composition and your positioning.

If your just after happy snaps its a different ballgame.

I quite like using the 105 F2.8 Nikkor.

Cheers

My intrest will survive as long as i graduate from Com/Arts Advert faculty @ ABAC.. :o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...