Hat Yai 2009

[Mai Krap]

I'm tired of all the old wore out Hat Yai threads so this is a new one for 2009. Ive been scheduled to pass through town again a few times this year "2008" but with all the airport and political issues in Bangkok I ended up diverted to Laos.

What is the current situation in Hat Yai? I would like to hear from some people who live there if anyone cares to comment.

Did you guys have much of a flood? I read about flooding briefly in the news but have no idea how bad it got.

Whats up with motel prices? I understand the hotels are pretty much empty, is that true?

Is there any security at the Airport now? Did they just make a good show after the bombing and now blow off security?

Are there still armed military and police all over the place downtown Hat Yai? Does it feel like a combat zone?

How about rents? In Isarn rents are around 10,000 for a big modern house in a secured neighborhood, how would that compare to Hat Yai?

Any commentary by people who live there is most appreciated.

[bernardthailand]

I'm tired of all the old wore out Hat Yai threads so this is a new one for 2009. Ive been scheduled to pass through town again a few times this year "2008" but with all the airport and political issues in Bangkok I ended up diverted to Laos.

What is the current situation in Hat Yai? I would like to hear from some people who live there if anyone cares to comment.

Did you guys have much of a flood? I read about flooding briefly in the news but have no idea how bad it got.

Whats up with motel prices? I understand the hotels are pretty much empty, is that true?

Is there any security at the Airport now? Did they just make a good show after the bombing and now blow off security?

Are there still armed military and police all over the place downtown Hat Yai? Does it feel like a combat zone?

How about rents? In Isarn rents are around 10,000 for a big modern house in a secured neighborhood, how would that compare to Hat Yai?

Any commentary by people who live there is most appreciated.

No special problems in HY, quiet town, few falang, a little bit more Malay and Indian tourist, but it is not the same than 4 years ago.

The municipality make the center more nice, new road in the center etc and try to get back the tourist with different show at each special day.

About flood not a big problem in HY, 2 weeks ago some school or other places close, but you dont need to swim.

Bank and other big store prepare sand bag, but was not needed. And now rain is finish.

About security , airport work with the same level than everywhere.

Downtown, only when you have special show you see a little bit some army soldiers, police you dont see, at some big store you have one than can scan your bag.

About hotel you can find good hotel in the range of 450 bath ( see one time Ambassador where I stay a lot of time since 2004 , 5 minutes from the center, 450 b )

About renting, now I rent a studio 50sq/m for 4000 b (furbished, in the center) but I know people that rent a row house recent with 2 bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, living room down and 1 floor for 5000 at 5 bike minutes from the center.

For visa trip it is easy 4 hours two way to Padang for 150 bath.

I hope that it can help you, sorry for my english

[Mai Krap]

Thanks, all good information. Any other insights are most welcome. One time I ate and Western Sizzler and the beef tasted like salmon, then I noticed the cook, cannot call him a chef, had the beef and salmon laid out on one tray touching thus the flavor transfer. Hopefully they have improved but where else is there to eat? I'm sure there is some good seafood around, is there plenty of fish in the morning market, sea bass, grouper, anything like that?

[junki3korean]

Hey guys in hat yai...

Do you know if Waterbar is still around? I want to visit hat yai again as its the first city i ever visited......

Andy

Edited December 23, 2008 by junki3korean

[Golden Nugget]

Looking for some updated info on HY as well. Planning to go next month. Would love a recommendation on a clean and secure hotel for no more than 1,200B, preferably with an in-room safe. Recommendation on good food places would be of great help too. Also, any info on Sadao/Danok at the Thai/Malaysia border? Anything to do there and the best method of transportation to get there and back?

[Stocky]

About flood not a big problem in HY, 2 weeks ago some school or other places close, but you dont need to swim.

Bank and other big store prepare sand bag, but was not needed. And now rain is finish.

Not in my part of town, it's still pissing down, I haven't seen the sun in a week.

But I can confirm there are no problems in Hat Yai.

[Golden Nugget]

Thanks Vinnie.

I'm starting to have second thoughts about going to HY. Don't want to be bored out of my mind. So what is there for a tourist to do other than try Southern region food? Don't give a rats a$$ about shopping! Good nightlife? Any worthwhile national parks, beautiful beaches, waterfalls, caves, etc nearby?

[MengWan]

Had Yai is a 'boring' place...

There is a lot of seedy nightlife but you will be the only farang around..

Basically you have to create your own scene here.

Easier said than done.

The plus point used to be the proximity to Malaysia for visa runs.(60kms).

..and proximity to Malaysia also means proximity to civilisation.

Well .... more proximity than the basketcases of Burma, laos and Cambodia.

There are beaches in nearby Songkla but no scene whatsoever other than daytrippers picnicking and getting drunk.

All in all....stay where you are buddy.

LOL

I did not knew the local jail had Internet for the inmates ...

Such an "uncivilized" place !

[bangon04]

No special problems in HY, quiet town, few falang, a little bit more Malay and Indian tourist, but it is not the same than 4 years ago.

The municipality make the center more nice, new road in the center etc and try to get back the tourist with different show at each special day.

I hope that it can help you, sorry for my english

This is a useful thread. Too many times the "South" is dismissed because of the "Troubles". It seems that HatYai is genuinely not affected any more than Bangkok. Is this fair?

It sounds quiet (or boring) but some people are looking for that. Not many westerners by the sound of it, but do the kids stare at white faces? Or is everything cool and laid back?

Are there Christian churches? Is there any anti-western graffitti? Do the Thai police do the usual mediocre jobs they do elsewhere?

Does anyone estimate the size of the western expat community in the city?

I, for one want to know more if those who are in the know want to share....

[MengWan]

This is a useful thread. Too many times the "South" is dismissed because of the "Troubles". It seems that HatYai is genuinely not affected any more than Bangkok. Is this fair?

It sounds quiet (or boring) but some people are looking for that. Not many westerners by the sound of it, but do the kids stare at white faces? Or is everything cool and laid back?

Are there Christian churches? Is there any anti-western graffitti? Do the Thai police do the usual mediocre jobs they do elsewhere?

Does anyone estimate the size of the western expat community in the city?

I, for one want to know more if those who are in the know want to share....

I lived there 7 years, it is my wife's "turf", so, after 20 years of Paris, it had to be HatYai !

Kids stare at "white faces", "tall people" etc, in fact they stare at a lot of things they do not see often, it's not a problem.

It is indeed cool, very easy to go with a car, the layout of "small" towns is easy to understand.

I did not knew any expat there, may be because I was not looking for any.

There is at least a Christian Church of my knowing.

A long time ago, I was sick and I was even carried to a "Christian Hospital" !

(my in-laws thought that any falang is a christian and should be treated only by christians)

I was even asked once to a conversation by "Evangelists" from the US, I declined ...

There are no "anti-western graffiti" (that I know of), the Police is rather lenient for the "farang".

Only one very, very bad moment was when the immigration officer in charge of the inquiry about myself came at my wife's home ...

He drank in an afternoon nearly 2 bottles of Chablis "Premier cru" that I bought in Paris !

I stayed after a bomb exploded at the Carrefour near my home, but I left when another one destroyed a tuk-tuk and killed an Australian 50m from my preferred newspapers shop.

As soon as the region becomes quiet again (some years of "good government" needed), I will get back there with pleasure.

Edited January 29, 2009 by MengWan

[Mai Krap]

Mengwan, where are you living now? Do you miss living in Hat Yai? What about the Christian Hospital down there, any info on that? Do they have western standards or is it typical and dirty?

Dont they have a big medical school down there, how did you find the Emergency Services? Medicine is pretty horrible in Isarn, sometimes it seems like they know what they are doing but most of the time I think they just get lucky, if you live anyway.

Edited February 9, 2009 by Mai Krap

[MengWan]

I am presently in Samui, I kinda miss HatYai, especially because my wife goes there too often for my taste (I feel like one of "twin-birds" alone) ...

The "christian" hospital I was once rushed too (my in-laws were too afraid) was situated past the "road bridge" over the train tracks, in the middle of town, maybe it is just a "nursery".

But it was a long time ago.

The hospitals I was going to more recently have a questionnaire where you can tell your religion, they are all very clean, the personel so friendly, some of them very expensive too.

There is a University of medicine, with -of course- a hospital, it is middle-priced and the equipments are top ... but delays are sometimes long.

I never had to test the emergency services, and, like everywhere else, there are good doctors and "bad" ones (when I had the dengue fever, the first doctor sent me back home after the first night of "pain").

[MengWan]

"Plenty of unfriendly chinks around....pracham loey!!!"

I see there is at least one racist in HatYai

[MengWan]

So I assume you occupy a world where the chinese are friendly,soulfull,caring for others,not money and status obsessed,laid back etc etc.

Incidentally I dont occupy the tiny farang bubble here...I am out there dealing with all sorts of people and the chinese form a BIG part of the populus in this town.

So spare us the PC lecturing.

No, I live in a world where calling chinese people "chinks" (sic) is racist ...

The lecture is not for me to give, I just never shut up when I read (or hear) racist calls !

And I see I was a little successful, this post of yours tells about "chinese"

[bunnaag]

Mengwan, where are you living now? Do you miss living in Hat Yai? What about the Christian Hospital down there, any info on that? Do they have western standards or is it typical and dirty?

Dont they have a big medical school down there, how did you find the Emergency Services? Medicine is pretty horrible in Isarn, sometimes it seems like they know what they are doing but most of the time I think they just get lucky, if you live anyway.

there are also 3 private hospitals the Bangkok-Hat Yai hospital being the best according to my experience.The two big government hospitals are also good but long waiting times.

[Stocky]

We tend to use the Sikarin Hatyai Hospital, fairly inexpensive, short waiting times, clean efficient and with modern equipment like a CT scanner.

[beammeup]

We tend to use the Sikarin Hatyai Hospital, fairly inexpensive, short waiting times, clean efficient and with modern equipment like a CT scanner.

Rajindee is a pretty good hospital, I'vehad 2 kids born there and have seen a few friends pass away there. had yai is OK but Songkhla is were its at!! Is's a well kept secret but well the cats out of the bag. Basically had yaI SUCKS BUT sONGKHLA IS A GREAT PARTY PLACE . I hate that cap freakin lock!!! so together (they are only 30k appart) they make a great team. Come on down, especiallhy you women.

[SgtAngel]

I go to HDY on a fairly regular basis. Have lived in thailand for 3 years now, working in Bkk. Never went south until I had to for my work. Stayed there 2 nights, fell in love with the city/people (both western and thai). Now have a gf located there sp go down nearly once a week, work permitting.

Nightlife - The Swan if you fancy a sociable meal/drinks where you can talk with friends or meet other westerners! If you don't like chelsea FC go there, because P'Au the owner loves them and you can always have a bit of banter with him!

Post Laser Disc if you fancy a bit of live music and draft beer on tap. Generates a good atmosphere with lots of locals as well as expats. Difficult to talk but then if your going for the music who needs talk right???? Dave the manager is good laugh, Thai Chinese (family from HDY, he's a cockney really!)

Brown Sugar - Located between the two above on the opposite side of the road. Nice little bar, live music on weekends. Great mix of people from Thai and Western. Is quiet early on but gets going around about 11pm and can go on until the wee hours.

Thai Places - Sotus Pub or Paragon. A little bit out of the centre, 60 baht by motorbike or 100 baht by tuk tuk if you can't be bothered to haggle.

Restaurants - The nicer restaurants I have found are usually on the outskirts of town along the new HDY/Songkla Road. There is Rock Terrace however not far from the center. Very nice location/reasonable prices/quality food. Every Wednesday the novotel does a reasonable Japanese buffet. Also there are some great Pad Thai restaurants. there is also a plethora of steak houses.

Hospitals - Rajindee is very good, been treated there myself. Clean, modern and inexpensive.

Attractions - The buddha on the hill is a nice walk and has a lovely restaurant at the top. About 45 minutes drive toward Sadao you have the communist tunnels whic have been recently renovated since the official end of the communist insurgency in 1987. Run by former guerrilas. Toward SAtun there are some outward bound adventure places that provide Canoeing and the like. Songkla beach isnt the best but it is a nice day trip and the seafood is fresh and good.

If your interested in Bikes, there is a great shop for custom made choppers ran by an excellent local nad his Aussie wife. Highly recommended even if it is just to look at the bikes or the manufacturing process.

Overall, the best place ihave found in Thailand so far. Hope I can make a shed load of money and quit down there in the next couple of years!

[futureexpat]

I live in Bangkok now but I really miss Hat Yai. Sgt Angel, your post really brought back some memories. You mentioned some people who I've spent a fair amount of time eating and drinking with.

I really miss that little bar area near Lee Garden Plaza. My buddy and I used to make the rounds down there. Everyone knew everyone, Thai and farang alike. I could show up at Post or any other bar and ask a waitress if any of my buddies had been around and they would point me in the direction where some of them were sure to be.

Sometimes we'd explore different nightlife areas. One thing that surprised us was how welcome we were when we went to places that catered mostly to Ethnic Chinsese.

If you're like me and enjoy going to the movies, it's a big let down. American movies are often available in English for just a few days, then all the showings are in Thai.

I met a lot of people who had discovered Hat Yai and kept coming back (maybe that's like everywhere in Thailand). There was a young Finnish contingent. Those guys really could drink and were a good group of guys to hang out with.

It's a small town, so if you meet some of the local expats and the staff at the places they frequent, everyone will know who you are. If you're a good person, people will look out for you.

Some bitter sweet memories as well. Some bad things happened to a few friends (one a bombing victim, another a parapalegic after a motorbike accident).

Any way, I think I'll head back that way in a few weeks. I'm in the pro Hat Yai crowd. Anyone who is currently down there, PM me and I'll be happy to buy you a beer when I visit.

[SgtAngel]

I live in Bangkok now but I really miss Hat Yai. Sgt Angel, your post really brought back some memories. You mentioned some people who I've spent a fair amount of time eating and drinking with.

I really miss that little bar area near Lee Garden Plaza. My buddy and I used to make the rounds down there. Everyone knew everyone, Thai and farang alike. I could show up at Post or any other bar and ask a waitress if any of my buddies had been around and they would point me in the direction where some of them were sure to be.

Sometimes we'd explore different nightlife areas. One thing that surprised us was how welcome we were when we went to places that catered mostly to Ethnic Chinsese.

If you're like me and enjoy going to the movies, it's a big let down. American movies are often available in English for just a few days, then all the showings are in Thai.

I met a lot of people who had discovered Hat Yai and kept coming back (maybe that's like everywhere in Thailand). There was a young Finnish contingent. Those guys really could drink and were a good group of guys to hang out with.

It's a small town, so if you meet some of the local expats and the staff at the places they frequent, everyone will know who you are. If you're a good person, people will look out for you.

Some bitter sweet memories as well. Some bad things happened to a few friends (one a bombing victim, another a parapalegic after a motorbike accident).

Any way, I think I'll head back that way in a few weeks. I'm in the pro Hat Yai crowd. Anyone who is currently down there, PM me and I'll be happy to buy you a beer when I visit.

Yeah it really is a great little place to be! Wish I could be down there. Guess you must remember the dulcet tones of Jam from Finland! Dave at the Post etc etc... when do you think you'llbe heading down that way again? Me, prob over Songkran, depends on tonight how things go with the Mrs or is she my ex?????

[samuibeachcomber]

been there a couple of times,stayed overnight doing visa runs,love the place,that area with the bars and good hotels(svensons is there)is really good always hustle and bustle,will have to take in songkla next time.

[futureexpat]

You guys are making me miss the place even more. I'll probably stick around here in Bangkok for Songkran and head down to Hat Yai a week or two after. Sad thing is most people I knew will have moved on by now.

[Seizhin]

I've been in Hat Yai for almost 5 years now... I mean on serious note, when all you do is work and occasional clubbing, there's really nothing else to see.

Hat Yai is more of a shopping place for business, and a few temples rather than a place to be with nature.

And yes, I guess most of the tourists here are Chinese, but I hope to see more farang in the future, if possible.

[Avante]

Are there by any chance EXPATS jobs in Hatyai ? Feel like relocating there just for the fun of it. Need a change of lifestyle. Any huge recommended multicorporation or companies are greatly welcomed.

[Seizhin]

Expat jobs..

I'd say most corporations here are set up with an international business of Indonesian-Malaysian-Thailand-Singaporean based works. Import and export, and so on.

I know a few open positions in the pharmaceutical distributor in Diethelm and Zuellig, but I'm unsure of further details.

Other than that, it's just being English teachers.

[Nokkeow]

this is a great thread...very informative. I wsa in Had Yai 10 years ago on business and stayed at the JB Hotel. Went to Songkla several times. I thought it was nice, low key compared to BKK. I have been wondering what it was like since the unrest in the south picked up. I don't recall ever hearing of foreigners in Had Yai or Songkla or Satun being targeted for crime (or that happening in Yala, Pattani ar Narattiwat for that matter). much more dangerous in the U.S., or even Bangkok/Pattaya it seems to me.

I do have one question: generally, how friendly are the Malay Muslims that live in Pattani and Yala? I heard that many of them don't even speak Thai, much less enlgish. I understand most of them don't condone the kinds of serious violence taking place, but I am curious if they are welcoming to westerners at all

[Roota]

I don't recall ever hearing of foreigners in Had Yai or Songkla or Satun being targeted for crime

Not targeted, but sometimes injured collaterally. I got my current apartment because the poor Canadian fellow who was here before was hurt in a bomb blast and decided he'd had enough.

I do have one question: generally, how friendly are the Malay Muslims that live in Pattani and Yala?

I used to spend a lot of time down there and never found Pattani friendly at all. Yala felt better, but that might simply have been because it's a more Chinese place. While I've met many friendly and helpful Muslims in the 'three provinces' over the years, I'd have to say that in general they are very reserved around outsiders, sometimes to the point of seeming suspicious and hostile. Not that they don't have some justification . . . .

[Avante]

this is a great thread...very informative. I wsa in Had Yai 10 years ago on business and stayed at the JB Hotel. Went to Songkla several times. I thought it was nice, low key compared to BKK. I have been wondering what it was like since the unrest in the south picked up. I don't recall ever hearing of foreigners in Had Yai or Songkla or Satun being targeted for crime (or that happening in Yala, Pattani ar Narattiwat for that matter). much more dangerous in the U.S., or even Bangkok/Pattaya it seems to me.

I do have one question: generally, how friendly are the Malay Muslims that live in Pattani and Yala? I heard that many of them don't even speak Thai, much less enlgish. I understand most of them don't condone the kinds of serious violence taking place, but I am curious if they are welcoming to westerners at all

My dear friend..Please do not think that the average yala Thai Muslim will cater do you. There is an unspoken law among themselves. I stop here and will not elaborate further.

[Avante]

Expat jobs..

I'd say most corporations here are set up with an international business of Indonesian-Malaysian-Thailand-Singaporean based works. Import and export, and so on.

I know a few open positions in the pharmaceutical distributor in Diethelm and Zuellig, but I'm unsure of further details.

Other than that, it's just being English teachers.

Hey Seizhin. Mind leading me to the opening position?

[rott]

So I assume you occupy a world where the chinese are friendly,soulfull,caring for others,not money and status obsessed,laid back etc etc.

Incidentally I dont occupy the tiny farang bubble here...I am out there dealing with all sorts of people and the chinese form a BIG part of the populus in this town.

So spare us the PC lecturing.

No, I live in a world where calling chinese people "chinks" (sic) is racist ...

The lecture is not for me to give, I just never shut up when I read (or hear) racist calls !

And I see I was a little successful, this post of yours tells about "chinese"

Just curious, is "farang" racist, or "pommy" or "limey"?