Rice Husks

[offset]

I have been offered a quantity of rice husk and as my soil is not very good I was wondering if it would be OK to use as a mulch and if so could I use it straight out of the bag

[loong]

I've dug in loads of rice husks - good for clay soil to aid drainage.

I never noticed any problems when I've used it as mulch either.

[Pond Life]

Rice husk = very good mulch.

Throw it on there !

[drtreelove]

I have been offered a quantity of rice husk and as my soil is not very good I was wondering if it would be OK to use as a mulch and if so could I use it straight out of the bag

As a mulch yes, a layer on top of the soil. But if you dig it into the soil in a planted area or an area that you are intending to plant, there will be a period of time that raw organic matter like this will use a lot of nitrogen from the soil to decompose.

So if you want to dig it in, you should either

• compost it first
  
• delay planting until the material has decomposed
  
• supplement the nitrogen
  

Edited October 9, 2009 by drtreelove

[loong]

I have been offered a quantity of rice husk and as my soil is not very good I was wondering if it would be OK to use as a mulch and if so could I use it straight out of the bag

As a mulch yes, a layer on top of the soil. But if you dig it into the soil in a planted area or an area that you are intending to plant, there will be a period of time that raw organic matter like this will use a lot of nitrogen from the soil to decompose.

So if you want to dig it in, you should either

• compost it first
  
• delay planting until the material has decomposed
  
• supplement the nitrogen
  

Hello there,

You are of course absolutely right, but sometimes I believe that the benefits outweigh the disadvantages.

My soil is the type that compacts very quickly with watering and turns to concrete if dry! It very soon loses any aeration. Digging in a good quantity of rice husks improves the drainage and aeration so much. Nowadays I will allow it to soak in a compost tea before digging it in and it decomposes so slowly that I hope that it has a limited depleting effect on the nitrogen available.

I actually have a small area of my garden that is about 60% rice husks, 20% Cow manure, 15% charcoal dust and maybe 5% clay soil. to a depth of about 40 Cm. I've just been growing black mung beans very close together in this patch, continuously, cutting them back and using the cuttings as mulch. As this has matured I will start another patch the same to one side. I take some of this "soil" to dig in the areas where I am starting new plants.

If you've got a metal drum, you could always turn the rice husks to Bio-char before digging in.

Of course, the OP was about using it as mulch and if your soil is good, then I think that it makes a good mulch. I would also advise adding green cuttings on a continual basis as rice husks on the surface of the soil dry out very quickly and when they are dry they don't absorb moisture readily, so decompose very very slowly.

[offset]

Thanks for the help so far but my soil is not to good would I be able to dig it in straight away if I mixed it with cow manure or would it be better to dig in some cow manure first then mulch with the rice husk I am really trying to improve the soil it is very sandy but must have some clay underneath because it does not drain to well the plot has just been planted up with fruit trees I am hoping to work on it this weekend

[drtreelove]

Thanks for the help so far but my soil is not to good would I be able to dig it in straight away if I mixed it with cow manure or would it be better to dig in some cow manure first then mulch with the rice husk I am really trying to improve the soil it is very sandy but must have some clay underneath because it does not drain to well the plot has just been planted up with fruit trees I am hoping to work on it this weekend

Digging is a lot of work, but if you're up for it I would mix the materials, and if you have enough rice hulls or rice straw, hold some back for a 2 to 4 inch mulch top dressing.

Mulching (or sheet composting, as it's sometimes called) is easier than digging but takes longer for decomposition.

The manure will provide the nitrogen needed to avoid N depletion and also benefit the soil and plants. But the danger is in incorporating both these raw materials in the soil in the plant root zones, especially if the manure is wet and "hot".

If the fruit trees have been planted with adequate spacing, you may be wise to work in the rice hulls and manure outside the newly planted root balls. That way you will avoid disturbing the new growth of fine absorbing roots by digging, and the organic matter will have a chance to weather and start to decompose before the tree roots reach into the area.

Keep the soil and mulch away from the stems of the trees so that the root collar can dry out in between waterings, contrary to local practices of piling up material against the trunks, which can create problems.

Plan your irrigation program now, so that you are ready for the dry season which starts in November. You may need to start watering in December, definitely by February, depending on species and conditions. I hear a lot of people say that trees can take care of themselves through the dry season; mature trees can handle this better, but young trees usually need watering. Drought stress can be a serious issue. The mulch you apply to the soil surface will aid in moisture retention. No mulch and the soil drys out faster.