cooked Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 I don't doubt it but when I see aphids I want to spray immediately, not three days later. In desperation I tried a neonicotinide on my aubergines and that didn't work either, I just stop trying to grow stuff that dies on me. I get about 10 tomatoes per plant before they die despite my efforts, so I guess this variety will disappear from my garden soon. A volunteer tomato plant that appeared in my flower garden has received no care at all apart from some watering, is in full sun and is overladen with fruit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IsaanAussie Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Have you tried grafting a few? Rootstock that can tolerate nematodes etc.. and something that doesnt mind the bugs so much on top. Perhaps some chili plants in between? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdmtdm Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 going to make some today thanks IA !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loong Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 I realize this thread is old, but I thought I'd share my experiences with tomatoes, thrips, and spotted wilt virus. The thrips themselves are doing minimal damage, but as we know, they transmit spotted wilt virus. Once you're infected with SWV, you're pretty much screwed. Wood vinegar applications have proven ineffective against thrips (No one here has reported otherwise, unless I miss it), however I am still a huge advocate of wood vinegar as both a repellent for other insects, such as mealy worms, and as a natural growth promoter. So, in short, grow varieties that are resistant to SWV, and if not, be prepared to lose some plants and carry on. My pink brandywines (heirloom) have had no SWV issues, while other tomato varieties are ate up with it. Purple Cherokee has proven to be especially difficult due to thrips infestation, and ultimately SWV. In my experience, cherry tomatoes, hybrid, heirloom, you name it, are also a bit more resilient than larger beef steak tomatoes. They seem to set more fruit more easily, and resist disease and pests better than larger beefsteaks. What works for me might not work for you. And what you are successfully growing I may fail at entirely. At the end of the day it just involves investing in some seed stock, lots of experimentation, and finding out what you can make happen despite the challenges of growing in the tropics. Although we may have more "challenges" growing in the Thai climate, we are also blessed with warm weather year round. Warm enough at least, to grow tomatoes Just my 2 cents! Fapington, it would be really great if you could start a new thread about using wood vinegar. It's actually not that easy to find info about wood vinegar on the internet. I bought some, but to be honest, I had no idea what to do with this thick gloopy stuff. Sounds like you have had success with it and if you are willing to share what you have learnt, I am sure that there are many that will appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soidog2 Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 (edited) From the internet, I did not try all the recommendations, Wood vinegar Typical Consumption and Dilution The typical consumption and dilution (in ratio of 1 part Wood Vinegar to x part of water) is based on the following rules: For pest and microorganism control (10 days before planting) 1:50x dilution at 1 liter/m2 On a weekly basis and one week before planting and harvesting 1:200x-400x dilution at 2-3 liter/m2 On a daily basis after planting 1:1000x-1500x dilution at 1-2 liter/m2 The above is our best estimate based on our experience. For best effect, users might need to tweak the recommended values based on circumstances and natural conditions during planting. Additional tips for agricultural use When using at 200x dilution, the solution can kill fungi but not beneficial bacteria. Applying a 20x solution to planting holes 10 days before planting should eliminate harmful microorganisms and parasitic nematodes in the soil. Doing this will also encourage CO (if present in soil) to oxidize to CO2 which is good for plant photosynthesis. After planting, it is not recommended to use Wood Vinegar at 20x-50x dilution. At 200x dilution, spraying or watering of Wood Vinegar can repel pests and kill fungi effectively. If soil is starved of beneficial bacteria due to long-term use of pesticide and chemical fertilizers, add compost heap and Wood Vinegar at 200x dilution to promote growth of beneficial bacteria and shorten composting time. Dilution of 500x can be applied directly onto fruits after fruiting to reduce fruit drop. This may also improve the quality of the fruits after harverting. If necessary, dilute to 1000x and add commercial pesticide to the solution. Doing this can reduce pesticide usage by 50% and control stubborn pests. For the following applications, dilute raw wood vinegar with water in the indicated ratio. Kill pests by applying a 1:20 ratio to the soil Kill weeds by applying a 1:50 ratio to the soil Prevent stems and roots from rotting by applying a 1:100 ratio Prevent pests and mold while accelerating plant growth by applying a 1:200 ratio to the soil Prevent plant lice by applying a 1:400 ratio to the plant Enhance fruit growth by applying a 1:500 ratio to forming fruit Examples of use with specific crops Crop: Tomato Function: Prevent nematode problems Dilution: 50x Application: Water root zone Crop: Tomato Function: Prevent fungi problems Dilution: 200x Application: Once a week Crop: Cucumber Function: Prevent root rot Dilution: 100x-200x Application: Water root zone Crop: Cucumber Function: Prevent fungi problems Dilution: 200x + 20 gram of meshed garlic Application: Once a week Crop: Pepper Function: Prevent nematode problems Dilution: 1000x Application: On water plants and seedlings Crop: Short-term vegetables Function: Before new shoots emerge Dilution: 100x-800x Application: Once every 5 days Crop: Fruits and beans Dilution: 500x before flowering; once only Dilution: 300x after flowering; once every 2 weeks Crop: Chili plant Function: Reduce flower drop and increase weight Dilution: 200x-300x Application: Once every 10 days Crop: Corns Dilution: 500x Application: Once every 10 days Crop: Orchid and roses Function: To promote flowering, reduce disease and improve color luminence Dilution: 200x-300x Application: Once a week Edited April 28, 2014 by soidog2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fapington Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Good stuff Soidog2, This will be very useful for myself, and other members. Thank You for taking the time to put that together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rice555 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Hello All, this stuff works as a trap!!!! I don't know if they still sell it, but there's a # second pic. I just sprayed a water bottle just to take a pic, the last pic is 20 mins after I applied Mag-net. I't zaps what ever touches it. You can put the bottle on a stick or hang by string/wire with a little sand or water so it doesn't blow into and stick to your plant. rice555 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fapington Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 OMG Rice555, You are catching all of your pollinators! haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rice555 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Hello All, I just stuck it on a dead plant as I was filling up my nute tank, and didn't put it into the plastic recycle bin. Usually get bumble bee size doing my toms, these guy are holed up in a tree with purple flowers. rice555 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdmtdm Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 happy to say IA 's garlic potion is working a treat so far for me .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IsaanAussie Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 happy to say IA 's garlic potion is working a treat so far for me .... Good to hear. You can also use ginger or chili in combinations with the garlic. Really a matter of what repels the bugs best. I make a fermented then alcohol extracted version which is stronger than using vegetable oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IsaanAussie Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 happy to say IA 's garlic potion is working a treat so far for me .... Good to hear. You can also use ginger or chili in combinations with the garlic. Really a matter of what repels the bugs best. I make a fermented then alcohol extracted version which is stronger than using vegetable oil. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samuijimmy Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 happy to say IA 's garlic potion is working a treat so far for me .... Good to hear. You can also use ginger or chili in combinations with the garlic. Really a matter of what repels the bugs best. I make a fermented then alcohol extracted version which is stronger than using vegetable oil. So out of curiosity, how do you make an alcohol extracted version? Could you expand on that part please! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IsaanAussie Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 happy to say IA 's garlic potion is working a treat so far for me .... Good to hear. You can also use ginger or chili in combinations with the garlic. Really a matter of what repels the bugs best. I make a fermented then alcohol extracted version which is stronger than using vegetable oil. So out of curiosity, how do you make an alcohol extracted version? Could you expand on that part please! Sorry, recipe for that one is proprietary. Hoping to market it soon as a range of organic garden products. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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