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Replacing Air Conditioning, all or part


al007

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I have a Miki air conditioner in our bedroom 56,000 BTU, it has a separate air handler connected to the compressor unit outside by well insulated pipe

 

it is about six yrs old

 

it is serviced every six months

 

It was originally an economically priced brand made in Thailand

 

The air is not as cold as it used to be at nights the air handler ices up, it runs about 12 hrs a day temp set at around 29C , so often only air handler running

 

I am wondering do I have to replace the air handler unit, any input appreciated

 

Has anyone just replaced the air handler

 

Do I have to replace it all

 

Can I sell my unit, I have the man who looks after it coming this morning, last time he was here (six months ago) he said it had another five to  ten yrs of life, BUT I am not sure

 

We only have air in the bedroom and it is important

 

I am looking for input and guidance, I need to conserve money but the A/C is very very important to us

 

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4 minutes ago, johng said:

Icing up indicates it is low on cooling gas which in turn means there is a leak somewhere in the system
Replacing the gas is cheap finding the leak could be difficult.

Yes may be correct three years ago moved the pipe outside the loft as rats were eating the copper, sounds like the paint brush and soapy water test, at least I can now see all the pipe

 

When they regas I generally weigh the bottle before they start, having said that our a/c guy we have had for 3 yrs I believe to be honest and his charges  very reasonable

 

Have on a semi regular basis been adding more gas, yes we need to check for leaks carefully

 

Some previous ones real rip off merchants, one arrived he said his bottle of gas was nearly empty, I lifted it shook it and agreed, 40 mins later he writes bill, I ask how much his bottle holds and say but you have charged me for full bottle, he forgot I checked his bottle earlier

 

World wide A/C has some real rip off merchants

 

I keep a record of each time gas added, and i think it is maybe too often, so we need to remove all the insulation and check all joints and pipe itself, before replacing insulation

 

thanks you have helped me formulate plan before engineer arrives

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The leaks that are hard to find are more likely in the condenser and evaporator coils,once found it can be very difficult to seal the hole in situ...they will most likely want to take the coil with holes back to the workshop for "proper" repair and leak test (or exchange for good refurbished part)

most aircon "repairmen" won't even attempt a hole repair they just fill up the gas....if one suggests taking the coil back to workshop he may be one of the better technicians....

 

 

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4 minutes ago, johng said:

The leaks that are hard to find are more likely in the condenser and evaporator coils,once found it can be very difficult to seal the hole in situ...they will most likely want to take the coil with holes back to the workshop for "proper" repair and leak test (or exchange for good refurbished part)

most aircon "repairmen" won't even attempt a hole repair they just fill up the gas....if one suggests taking the coil back to workshop he may be one of the better technicians....

 

 

 

 

I had not thought about this, I was thinking the leak would only be from the compressor outlet, but of course you are correct, i continue to learn,  but fully understand once pointed out

 

I do love many many positive things about Thai Visa

 

Thank you and appreciated Johng

 

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1 hour ago, al007 said:

I have a Miki air conditioner in our bedroom 56,000 BTU,

That's quite a playpen! (56000/600 = 93 square meters).  I could turn my bedroom into a meat locker if I installed a 56000 BTU unit.  Having said that I agree with above posts, low coolant.

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Anyone used one of these, any input appreciated
 
 
 
 
596309d13764e_ACleakdetector.jpeg.ebc3bc975d7ced67f499b4e3ef73ed9a.jpeg

Yes, good for locating the area of the leak on large systems and extremely sensitive. You still need to use bubble solution to identify the actual leakage point though when the electrical tester has located the area

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

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4 minutes ago, Anythingleft? said:


Yes, good for locating the area of the leak on large systems and extremely sensitive. You still need to use bubble solution to identify the actual leakage point though when the electrical tester has located the area

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 

I like tools and gauges that help, at about 600 bhatt will order and try, good to have in any case, 

 

Thanks for the input much appreciated

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1 hour ago, bankruatsteve said:

The leaks I have had are usually at the "walv" and when the local newbie apprentice tries to kill it closed.  So, I would check the end points before thinking anywhere else.

I started this thread this morning, having searched TV and found little on air conditioning, I very greatly appreciate all the input, it has assisted me greatly

 

In my life today I need to check and be careful with money and be sensible

 

I choose not just to pay and forget

 

I have a life style today beyond most peoples wildest dreams, because i am careful and learn

 

Thank you all God Bless

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Well all working again, engineer said cap leaking

 

I replied no the valve leaking, cap just double security

 

In any case at 700 bhatt I am happy, will buy new valve, presume same as tyre valve and next time when gas gone tell him to change it

 

I asked him about the meter I am buying he said they do not even need soap and water just use their finger, all bull shit; in any case when I have my meter will be caught checking around

 

Thanks everyone for the input

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